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Rotor and Brake Pad Recommendation ?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by SOL View Post
    Any current advice on pads & rotors to use? Are the T2 or T3 better?
    Hey,

    I can't feel the difference between T2 and T3.

    T3 are cross drilled, so if you are worried about cracks later on, T2 might be better.

    Best

    Mark
    2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

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    • #17
      Sorry, no, T3 are not cross drilled.

      T2:


      T3:


      I have T3 front, T2 rear.
      2008 D4D M6 GXL [MT ATZ-P3][Whitey's Ironman 45710FE/45682FE+KTFR101H/Dob487][extended Roadsafe links][Polyairs][DBA T3/T2][amts diffdrop & recovery points][Tin175's stone guards][Bushskins BashPlate][ARB Sahara][IPF 900s][Snorkel][WindCheetah][MaxTrax][IC-440][Parrot Asteroid][ARB Fridge][Lifestyle 2nd Row Fridge Mount][ARB Compressor][Thumper][SandGrabbers][Cargo Barrier][Tigerz Awning][MCC Rear Bar]

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      • #18
        Woops!

        Sorry I was meaning these;

        http://www.dba.com.au/dba-part-finde...2)_03/03-08/09

        I can't feel the difference between these and T2 rotors.

        Best

        Mark
        2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

        Comment


        • #19
          I've been running T2's for QMF pads for the last year and they are excellent and the pads are giving of minimum break dust.
          Attached Files
          2010 Prado 150 GXL Diesel, Cooper AT3, ARB compressor, Catch Can, Redarc BCDC 1225, Projecta DBC150, Optima YellowTop and RedTop D34, Pioneer Backbone Platform

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          • #20
            Different internal vane pattern from memory. All good.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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            • #21
              Ok. So I have the car serviced at Toyota and I was getting an annoying squeal at low speed asked them to check if all was ok. I am using T2 rotors and genuine pads. They tell me pads have around 6mm and the rotors have heat marks on them and are glazed. Advise was to machine them. The rotors are 6000ks old. I do not tow anything and have been off road once in them.

              Any advise, why would the have heat marks? should I change out the pads to an aftermarket brand?

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              • #22
                I had that happen on my sons focus after a pad change .. got the same outcome “heat marks” my mechanic said can skin the rotors but suggested they’d Bed in and all squeal would go.... it did in the space of a week or so. Not quite comparing apples with apples but the principle is the same. Different story if the rotors are warped though then in get them machined for sure
                2018 VX Prado

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                • #23
                  Thanks Pradosaur.
                  My thinking was that the genuine pads are on the soft side and probably heating up during everyday driving. I think when I get new pads I will skim the discs. The squealing is extremely annoying.

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                  • #24
                    If you're planning to use aggressive brake pads, buy good rotors. I've got street track pads which are only half worn however my rotors are down to their wear limit in 25000km. Car stops very well even when towing however too expensive to go for these pads again due to needing new rotors every time. Buying good high carbon rotors also blows the cost out.
                    2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Wildcaddy View Post
                      Ok. So I have the car serviced at Toyota and I was getting an annoying squeal at low speed asked them to check if all was ok. I am using T2 rotors and genuine pads. They tell me pads have around 6mm and the rotors have heat marks on them and are glazed. Advise was to machine them. The rotors are 6000ks old. I do not tow anything and have been off road once in them.

                      Any advise, why would the have heat marks? should I change out the pads to an aftermarket brand?
                      It is always interesting when you get a report like this....

                      so heat marks ? They’ll put new rotors and pads on and every chance within 10k - 20k you could be in the same boat.

                      Best determine any underlying issues that have caused this in the first place. Rebuilding calipers is a good place to start.

                      machining slotted rotors, I would nt bother

                      it’s a painful exercise but if you are keeping the car, rebuild calipers, use T3 rotors ( much better than T2s ) and decent pads

                      long run it will pay off not only performance wise but also $$$$

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