150 auto transmission service

[Nick Stone Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Nick Stone]

Hi everyone.
Can anyone recommend a decent auto trans mechanic in Adelaide? Need to get a trans cooler and a full flush done. Thanks in advance

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

I knocked up this pump using my spare ATTESA pump from my 32 GTR. Worked great.
Gave the trany. about 15L of Castrol full synthetic FE flush and a new filter kit.
No difference as far as I can feel, still changes gears as smoothly as ever.
Old oil was very dark.
I'll do it all again in maybe 50,000k.

[preni Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close preni]

Hi Vendetta6,
Well done.
What jack stands do you suggest for lifting on to four? I have 3 T (pair) Ratchet type. used on other cars. But Prado seems to deserve bigger stands.

Regards.

[Guest Close Guest]

Hi everyone.
Can anyone recommend a decent auto trans mechanic in Adelaide? Need to get a trans cooler and a full flush done. Thanks in advance

Late reply: But MV automatics in Blackwood. Been using them for years on a number of vehicles.

[GXL14 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close GXL14]

I have just given my A750 transmission a service in my 150, as it is approaching 60K. The trans has been fine and it has done only a small amount of 4wd driving. I have never seen the trans high temp light come on, but I have my scan gauge always displaying the torque convertor and trans temps, which I have seen can get up to 100 to 110 when under heavy load.
I was a bit unsure which method to used as there seems to be a few approaches, from both people here and youtube videos. The 3 main methods are below with also a few slight alterations to all 3 of them.

1. drain trans oil, refill run up then do the process again for another 2 or 3+ times till oil looks good.
2. drain trans oil, refill and then remove cooler outlet line, run up and drain 2ltrs into a jug. Refill and flush 2 more times.
3. drain trans oil, remove trans sump and drain, clean magnets and clean or change pick strainer, then remove return cooler hose and flush 2 or 3 times.

So I decided to play it as it appears. When I drained the oil I got 3200ml from the drain plug hole. The oil looked brownish red, and looked a bit worse than I expected. So I decided to remove the trans sump and found another 1200ml left in the sump, so 4400ml drained from trans so far. The oil in the sump had a bit of sediment in it and the magnets had some very fine paste only. I also change the pick up strainer and cleaned the sump and magnets up.
After refitting I decided to refill with 4400ml and then remove the cooler hose and drain 2200ml when running. Then refilled trans and drained another 2200ml from the cooler line. Finally I decide to do a 3rd 1500ml flush as I didn't want to run out of fluid.
Then topped up trans again with 500ml extra. Run up to temp using the torque stall method, and returning to park and neutral to circulate the oil in the torque convertor and trans. Got to 43degrees and checked the oil and drained off the 150 to 200ml excess.

If I were to advise anyone who wants to do this I would recommend.

• Remove trans sump as most of the dirt and debris stays in the sump if you only drain from the plug.
• Always remove the cooler return hose so you can flush the old fluid in the torque convertor, cooler and clutch packs while going through all the gears and constantly returning to N or P.
• Change the drain and level crush washers for copper washer as you can reuse them again and again.
• Also use a fully synthetic ATF such as Penrite ATF LV fully synthetic, as it is a better grade of oil than the genuine Toyota WS oil.
• Get at least 12ltrs of oil for this job.

The first time you do this job it is a bit of a hassle, but once you know the sockets, tools and equipment you need it is not too bad. I will definitely repeat the transmission drain and flush in another 60k time as it was justified.