See more
See less

Stocklock review

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Stocklock review

    My initial experiences with Stocklock dual speed:
    Vehicle: Apr 2016 GX 2.8 Auto (obviously). Relevant add-ons: Davies 678 Cooler with Kaon brackets; Kaon EGR blank; Provent catch can; Dasaita head unit and Torque Pro to watch things. And I do not tow.
    Purchased the Dual speed Stocklock direct from Matt Stockwell and self installed.
    Driving observations: Only tried the Auto or high speed option so far; but what a change. At about 80kmh you feel it cut off the torque converter and the revs drop. It cruises on the freeway & open road much better. You may still need to take your foot off the throttle for a moment to get it into 6th; but under cruise control it tends to get into 6th & hold better. You do notice the gear changes, up & down, a little more as it is not going through the torque converter rev changes; you can get a slight clunk at 80 if doing a gear change and torque converter is cutting out. It will drive inclines with lower revs; I felt it was better on the climbs but maybe it was me wishing this! Certainly on the flatter roads you do not miss the regular rev changes from the torque converter; as noted before, it seems to stay in 5th & 6th better.
    But biggest change is the ATF Torque temp stays basically the same as the Pan; before it could quickly increase to 100 even with the added cooler.
    Still early for fuel consumption but it does seem a little better; on my initial driving maybe up to 0.5 km/100l better; will need more time for this. But I am conservative and over 50.000kms was at 9.8l/100kms.
    And so far NO error codes!
    Installation Instructions: These are just OK. The instructions are very clear for the wires from the control units that must be spliced to 3 wires from 2 connectors on the left of the passenger foot well; some pictures help with identifying the connectors and wires. However, the other 3 wires that connect to constant, accessory and dash light power do not specify where to connect.
    So rather than trial and error to find wires, I have used fuse taps (Double Mini Blade Fuse Socket Wire Tap from Jaycar) on the fuse panel under the driver side dash. The standard fuses are Micro so you need similar amp Mini fuses for the taps. You can use a multi meter to test what the fuses do; first, the left is the positive as you need to plug the fuse tap in correctly. I then used Cooling as constant (the GX has no cool box in the console); P/Outlet as Accessory and Panel as Dash lights. And you cannot get the fuse block cover back on; so just keep it in the glovebox for reference.
    Also, there are 2 additional small control boxes that you need to find somewhere to store; again nothing in the instructions about these boxes. I found a bracket that had space and a nut that takes a bolt with my bracket to hold the 2 boxes up under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Finally, I placed the switch in the driver’s right panel of six switches; my GX had 4 of them spare!
    So, after much mucking about threading & tying the wiring and control boxes in; cutting, soldering and insulating the connections it all worked!!


  • #2
    Me too.
    I installed my dual speed about a week ago, car is 2012 so only the 5-speed auto.
    Driving with Auto on, the car is as sweet as ever, nothing different....until it reaches lock up speed and then it just hangs on.
    When towing in cruise, you have no idea there's even a hill unless you watch the L per 100 gauge which will climb pretty high.
    If the hill continues she drops out of 5 straight into locked 4, no shudders or jumps, smooth as.
    Man then she really powers up the hill.
    My engine has the ecu tweaked and she makes a bit over 180 hp at the wheels.
    Using the Low button is where you really get going fast.
    When towing I pre-select S and 3. She takes off exactly as per normal changing up through the gears until about 35kph where she grabs locked 3.
    Accelerates like a rocket so you have to be fast to knock per into locked 4 and pretty quickly after toss her into D.
    Instructions are mostly photos which are really good once you've done the job. First time pulling the console etc out is tricky especially as pradopoint shat itself just when I needed info.
    As most of us have brake controllers and Anderson plugs down the back, there's plenty of fused constant 12v to tap into.
    Ign power can be tapped into from the cigarette lighter circuit.
    Illumination wire comes from any of the dash switches, take your pick and multi meter them out.
    Speed wire is from the photos.
    You need to mount a couple of relay units or can use double sided tape. I thought corrugations might make the tape fail so I mounted mine on an alloy plate which bolted to some convenient tapped holes.
    There's also a resistor which gets hot so I mounted that on another alloy plate with a few drilled holes as a heat sink. Bolted that plate using another convenient tapped hole.
    Take care nothing can rub through, solder everything, heat shrink etc.
    There's two more boxes that live under the carpet against the tunnel.
    Only thing that tricked me was a 6-pin plug with only 4-pins used. Then I woke's a way to bypass the whole show and convert back to standard wiring.
    I spoke with Matt the other night and thanked him for the unit.
    Great locally made piece of gear.
    I'll be buying another one for the kid's 200 series.
    Last edited by carco; 21-10-2019, 05:24 PM.


    • #3
      Thanks 'carco'.

      I am more than impressed with the cruising improvement in 5th & 6th. This is what concerned me recently on a trip to Perth and back; the torque converter cutting in and out is annoying while trying to cruise and go up inclines. Not so concerned about take offs. Being based in Sydney fast take off is pointless - you just get to the next red light or traffic queue quicker!
      With connecting the power wires, as I don't have a brake controller and wanted to use the main battery, I chose fuse taps as a cleaner option, for me at least.
      And pulling the glove box area apart is fun the first time; only a few bolts just lots of clips. But Pradopoint and YouTube help.
      And to a bypass, I have a plug between the ECU wires and 2 logic boxes with a extra 'loop' connector; that is, unplug and replace with the loop connector to bypass if needed. For me it's just under the carpet behind the ECUs on left of the passenger foot well.
      And apparently there is an updated model out 'soon' with more options; check the Stockwell Automotive Facebook page.


      • #4
        Gerry the take off I was referring to is pulling away with the van or camper on the back.
        Normally the car will be converter slipping until about 70kph where it will go for locked 4, and also depending just how hard down the accelerator is.
        Using the Low button and S mode gives me converter lock from about 35kph and from there it gets the combination up to highway speed effortlessly.
        Overtaking is much better as the car stays pulling hard in top gear whereas previously it might decide to drop out of lock halfway down the overtake, revving like crazy and not actually accelerating.
        I got pretty quick at removing console and trims as I originally had the switch in one of the 4-position dash blanks. But I found it not the best spot and moved to a blank beside the shifter.
        My biggest headache was the cigarette lighter had a blown fuse from a previous life running kid's DVD headrest units.
        I took forever to find the 2nd fuse panel, then nothing would grip that tiny fuse. Eventually used the tool from the i30, and power.
        Cutting and joining the actual converter wires was by far the easiest job. Illumination wire and IGN power were more challenging.
        Finding the best mounting position of the relay boxes??? was also a worry as I needed some space for future UHF.

        I think Matt's next model is an ultra slow switch for rock crawling etc.
        I'm more than happy with my dual speed version.


        • #5
          Ahh, I can see how towing will be better. I forgot to mention the few overtakes I have done so far did seem better. It uses 6, 5 or 4 fully without the torque converter wasting revs; much better control during overtakes.
          Had no trouble with the 2nd fuse panel; typical Toyota location; and the tool in the engine bay fuse box worked well to get the fuses out for me.
          One thing alarms me: how many wires and ECU boxes behind the dash; and the wires seem quite small. Was a little tricky scraping the insulation off the speed wire to join into; had to be careful not to cut the small number of wire strands. But my previous car was a base model 80 series - no electronics there!! And I do miss the vinyl floor!! Altho the Prado is much nicer to drive.
          As you said, a great addition to the Prado and well done Matt.


          • #6
            Yes that speed sensor wire was tiny, and not much room even after stripping away the harness wrapping.
            My car (2nd hand) had a fuse puller in the engine bay for the larger fuses, not those baby things under the dash. Plus the cigarette lighter one was closest to the dash, actually under it and even with that plastic trim removed, I kept thinking this bloody panel must hinge down or something, no body would deliberately make a fuse panel so difficult to access......wrong.
            So many strange black boxes behind the dash and kick panels, could only imagine the cars one sees driving through water up to the seats, they'd be completely stuffed.