My initial experiences with Stocklock dual speed:
Vehicle: Apr 2016 GX 2.8 Auto (obviously). Relevant add-ons: Davies 678 Cooler with Kaon brackets; Kaon EGR blank; Provent catch can; Dasaita head unit and Torque Pro to watch things. And I do not tow.
Purchased the Dual speed Stocklock direct from Matt Stockwell and self installed.
Driving observations: Only tried the Auto or high speed option so far; but what a change. At about 80kmh you feel it cut off the torque converter and the revs drop. It cruises on the freeway & open road much better. You may still need to take your foot off the throttle for a moment to get it into 6th; but under cruise control it tends to get into 6th & hold better. You do notice the gear changes, up & down, a little more as it is not going through the torque converter rev changes; you can get a slight clunk at 80 if doing a gear change and torque converter is cutting out. It will drive inclines with lower revs; I felt it was better on the climbs but maybe it was me wishing this! Certainly on the flatter roads you do not miss the regular rev changes from the torque converter; as noted before, it seems to stay in 5th & 6th better.
But biggest change is the ATF Torque temp stays basically the same as the Pan; before it could quickly increase to 100 even with the added cooler.
Still early for fuel consumption but it does seem a little better; on my initial driving maybe up to 0.5 km/100l better; will need more time for this. But I am conservative and over 50.000kms was at 9.8l/100kms.
And so far NO error codes!
Installation Instructions: These are just OK. The instructions are very clear for the wires from the control units that must be spliced to 3 wires from 2 connectors on the left of the passenger foot well; some pictures help with identifying the connectors and wires. However, the other 3 wires that connect to constant, accessory and dash light power do not specify where to connect.
So rather than trial and error to find wires, I have used fuse taps (Double Mini Blade Fuse Socket Wire Tap from Jaycar) on the fuse panel under the driver side dash. The standard fuses are Micro so you need similar amp Mini fuses for the taps. You can use a multi meter to test what the fuses do; first, the left is the positive as you need to plug the fuse tap in correctly. I then used Cooling as constant (the GX has no cool box in the console); P/Outlet as Accessory and Panel as Dash lights. And you cannot get the fuse block cover back on; so just keep it in the glovebox for reference.
Also, there are 2 additional small control boxes that you need to find somewhere to store; again nothing in the instructions about these boxes. I found a bracket that had space and a nut that takes a bolt with my bracket to hold the 2 boxes up under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Finally, I placed the switch in the driver’s right panel of six switches; my GX had 4 of them spare!
So, after much mucking about threading & tying the wiring and control boxes in; cutting, soldering and insulating the connections it all worked!!
Gerry
Vehicle: Apr 2016 GX 2.8 Auto (obviously). Relevant add-ons: Davies 678 Cooler with Kaon brackets; Kaon EGR blank; Provent catch can; Dasaita head unit and Torque Pro to watch things. And I do not tow.
Purchased the Dual speed Stocklock direct from Matt Stockwell and self installed.
Driving observations: Only tried the Auto or high speed option so far; but what a change. At about 80kmh you feel it cut off the torque converter and the revs drop. It cruises on the freeway & open road much better. You may still need to take your foot off the throttle for a moment to get it into 6th; but under cruise control it tends to get into 6th & hold better. You do notice the gear changes, up & down, a little more as it is not going through the torque converter rev changes; you can get a slight clunk at 80 if doing a gear change and torque converter is cutting out. It will drive inclines with lower revs; I felt it was better on the climbs but maybe it was me wishing this! Certainly on the flatter roads you do not miss the regular rev changes from the torque converter; as noted before, it seems to stay in 5th & 6th better.
But biggest change is the ATF Torque temp stays basically the same as the Pan; before it could quickly increase to 100 even with the added cooler.
Still early for fuel consumption but it does seem a little better; on my initial driving maybe up to 0.5 km/100l better; will need more time for this. But I am conservative and over 50.000kms was at 9.8l/100kms.
And so far NO error codes!
Installation Instructions: These are just OK. The instructions are very clear for the wires from the control units that must be spliced to 3 wires from 2 connectors on the left of the passenger foot well; some pictures help with identifying the connectors and wires. However, the other 3 wires that connect to constant, accessory and dash light power do not specify where to connect.
So rather than trial and error to find wires, I have used fuse taps (Double Mini Blade Fuse Socket Wire Tap from Jaycar) on the fuse panel under the driver side dash. The standard fuses are Micro so you need similar amp Mini fuses for the taps. You can use a multi meter to test what the fuses do; first, the left is the positive as you need to plug the fuse tap in correctly. I then used Cooling as constant (the GX has no cool box in the console); P/Outlet as Accessory and Panel as Dash lights. And you cannot get the fuse block cover back on; so just keep it in the glovebox for reference.
Also, there are 2 additional small control boxes that you need to find somewhere to store; again nothing in the instructions about these boxes. I found a bracket that had space and a nut that takes a bolt with my bracket to hold the 2 boxes up under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Finally, I placed the switch in the driver’s right panel of six switches; my GX had 4 of them spare!
So, after much mucking about threading & tying the wiring and control boxes in; cutting, soldering and insulating the connections it all worked!!
Gerry
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