The 150 series Dual Battery Guide

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Fair enough Tim, in my vehicle and other Prado's as you noted it is not an issue and this
is a Prado forum. But yes in the ECU models with smart charging that monitor the cranking battery charging it would be an issue.

Which brings about another aspect, most people with winches connect them directly
to the cranking battery terminals, the engine management system in ECU controlled
wouldn't be happy about that. Connecting to the vehicle earth point would also be
an issue as the earth strap is not all that large and not designed for winching applications
so something else to look out for?

Cheers
Leigh

[Symo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Symo]

Just completed my DBS install, used a Optima D34 and SBI12. Amazingly it worked first time, I earthed the aux batt to the earth right next to the aux battery itself, and earthed the redarc to the nearest bolt holding the tray. Just need to install the diode to boost the voltage and run a power cable to the rear. All fittings were bought from ABR sidewinder and the job looks smick.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

When changing my starter battery over last week we noticed the factory plastic tray under the battery was only big enough for a 10" battery. I've replaced it with a Century Overlander (N70 size) so the battery now hangs over the end of it. Looking at ####'s 120 the factory tray was larger, just seems a bit weird that Toyota changed it for the 150.

[AJ120 Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close AJ120]

When changing my starter battery over last week we noticed the factory plastic tray under the battery was only big enough for a 10" battery. I've replaced it with a Century Overlander (N70 size) so the battery now hangs over the end of it. Looking at ####'s 120 the factory tray was larger, just seems a bit weird that Toyota changed it for the 150.

Or changed it for Petrol Diesel!

Cheers Andrew

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

Or changed it for Petrol Diesel!

That's a point. Is the diesel tray longer?

[Guest Close Guest]

You can cause some strange cranking battery charging problems by having other loads fixed to the cranking battery's negative terminal.

As such, nothing should be connect to any new vehicle’s cranking battery negative terminal.

This may or may not specifically effect Toyotas, but it’s still far better to make it a practice to keep away from the cranking battery’s negative terminal in any vehicle.

Running a negative from the auxiliary battery’s negative terminal to to the cranking battery’s earth point is always a good move.

I'm connecting my portable battery in the cabin to the starter battery. The earth point on the guard coming off the -ve terminal is getting rather crowded. So I was thinking of getting this Projecta BT925-N1 terminal distribution connector.


Is this OK to do?

Also, is it OK to cut the factory's -ve cable at the crimp and reterminate using a suitable size lug to one of the studs on the Projecta connector, and a separate earth strap from the connector to the earth point on the guard?

Does anyone know what the cable size is on the factory's -ve wire? The diameter including insulation is 9mm - which seems to correlate to 3 B&S.

Is it then OK to use 6 B&S for the earth strap?

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

1. yes, I did this with the P-ute
2. As above, make sure it is a good quality crimp though (which tool did you end up getting?)
3. No idea but that sounds about right
4. Is the 6 B&S replacing the 3 B&S? If so no. If it is just to earth the auxiliary then it depends on what the total current draw will be on the auxiliary but typically yes. I have 6 B&S in and out of my auxiliary. If you were hooking up a winch then no.

Make sense?

[Guest Close Guest]

2. I went for the 4-70mm2 hydraulic crimper. It comes with hex dies.
4. My query is all surrounding the -ve terminal on the starter battery. The wire diameter that comes from down below (I assume the engine block) is 9mm (including insulation). Then at the -ve terminal, it branches off (earth strap) in a smaller diameter to the earth point on the guard. Refer to image below (taken from here http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post394600)


I was initially going to leave the -ve wire terminated on the clamp, but cut the clamp and leave the bolt hole in place, like this (taken from here http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post418095)

[Mattfunk 120 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mattfunk 120]

Hi AMTS, I was short of space too so I lugged the -ve for my aux battery and and bolted it to the front of my block. You will find a couple of threaded holes there and just need to find an appropriate bolt. Great earth from this point just a different way to do it

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

Hi AMTS, I was short of space too so I lugged the -ve for my aux battery and and bolted it to the front of my block. You will find a couple of threaded holes there and just need to find an appropriate bolt. Great earth from this point just a different way to do it

I did this as well as the block is ground zero for the alternator earth.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Crimping on with that crimper will work fine. Or you can cut the lug. Either will be no problem.

[Guest Close Guest]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Better get to work on installing all the bits.

[Wil Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wil]

Bearing in mind that this stupid question comes from someone who works in earthworks, not an electrician

What would be the issues with having with having a fridge in the back of the wagon, connected to a portable battery pack, which was then fed by a 240v charger pluged into the factory inverter? Battery pack would charge when car was on acc or on.

Will

[Guest Close Guest]

Bearing in mind that this stupid question comes from someone who works in earthworks, not an electrician

What would be the issues with having with having a fridge in the back of the wagon, connected to a portable battery pack, which was then fed by a 240v charger pluged into the factory inverter? Battery pack would charge when car was on acc or on.

Will

It is an inefficient way of doing it, using 12VDC to convert to 240VAC to then charge a 12VDC battery. It would be easier to just plug the fridge into a 12V outlet assuming that the outlet is capable of delivering the current to the fridge.

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

What would be the issues with having with having a fridge in the back of the wagon, connected to a portable battery pack, which was then fed by a 240v charger pluged into the factory inverter? Battery pack would charge when car was on acc or on.

Will

Hi Wil and there is no reason why that would not work but you need to know the maximum CONTINUOS output of your AC and then select a battery charger that will not exceed the limit of your AC.

While it is inefficient, so is using a DC/DC device.

The optimum way to do what you are intending, is to run decent cable to the rear, 6B&S twin, and fit one of LeighW’s fuses and you will have the perfect charging and power supply setup you can get and it is the MOST efficient type of setup.