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hi guys, has anyone mounted a led light bar to their roof cage? I've got a 150 kakadu with a rhino roof cage that i want to mount the light bar on... problem is, the cable is very heavy duty (10mm thick... maybe a little smaller 8mm) is there any secret hidey holes where the cable can run so as i don't have to drill through the roof and use a grommet? cheers guys.
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I have seen a few on here wired up the front of the A pillar beside the windscreen under the trim. Not sure on the cable size though.2013 [COLOR="#006699"][B][SIZE=2]Blue Storm[/SIZE][/B][/COLOR] D4D 150 GXL Auto, Opposite Lock Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, GME 3345 UHF + AE4018 Antenna, HR Tow Bar, TG150, HD Rhino Roof Racks, Foxwing, Dual Batteries, C-Tek DCDC Charger, ARB 47L Fridge, ScanGauge II, Internal Fishing Rod Storage, X-Ray Vision HIDs and LEDs, New PP Sticker.... [COLOR="#808080"][SIZE=1][/SIZE][/COLOR]
My Rig [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27406-Steve-s-Blue-Storm-150-GXL"]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27406-Steve-s-Blue-Storm-150-GXL[/URL] -
I guess the questions we need answered are how many Watts is the light bar and where are you powering from? From the length of run and current draw the minimum wire size can be determined and then whether that will run up the windscreen or up the rear as others have done (Derek11 from memory). I plan to run the cable up the back from my auxiliary which is in the back.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automaticComment
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I had the light given to me(still in the box)...Don't really know much about them and there is no brand name. The guys at the auto shop seem to think its a relatively good light determined by what they could see and going off the cable size. I was planning on running the power straight to the battery( I'm putting a dual system in as we'll) I will be putting aux in the back for fridge etc, is that something I could look at wiring it to?Comment
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Yes and no, it depends on what you are doing. If the rack is on all the time and you will have the light bar on all the time for track work then coming off either is fine. You need a separate switch but also i reckon you should have the bar switch with high beam. Easier to do from the main battery. The box should say how many lumens or wattage. Winnilis posted a couple of links today to work our wire sizes. I was planning on running a 6mm2 twin core up through the rear door grommet and terminate that to an Anderson plug on the roof, probably a Powerpole. My roofrack is only on when we go camping so the light will only be there at that time. Separate switch and relay triggered off high beam.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automaticComment
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whoops just started another thread on this...a mate of mine suggested running the wires up the inside of my snorkel and then putting a plug on the back of the snorkel. Anybody done this? Saves drilling holes in the roof etc.2013 (12 build) GX Auto.......with safari snorkel, toyota bar, tow bar, roof racks, led spots with fancy newpro switchgear, uniden remote UHF and aerial, ARB bash plates, Roadsafe recovery points, digoptions radio, general grabber AT2s, cheap ebay roof rack that has stood up surprisingly well.....Comment
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If you go up the snorkel, you would eventually have to get it out and up the A-pillar. Easier to run it up the side of the windscreen next to the trim as suggested above.Comment
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The trim beside the windscreen comes out very easy and has a channel inside it, so you might be able to put it inside the trim and re-attach depending on the size of the cableComment
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Roof mounted lights wiring options?
What do people do when they want to wire up a LED light bar mounted on a rack on their roof? i.e, where does the cable come into the vehicle and is there more than one option for doing this? Any tips or tricks?
If someone tells me they've done it and its relatively easy, I'll give it a crack, but if not I'm happy to leave it to the autoleccy.2010 Auto GXL Metal Storm, 2" king spring lift, TJM Bull Bar, TJM 9500lb winch, LF Genesis 55W HIDs, Cooper ST MAXX tyres, ARB Compressor, Uniden 80 Ch UHF, Dual batteries, RedArc BCDC 1220 charger, RedArc electric brake controller, Electronic rust proofing, MSA seat covers, Roof DVD player, Rhino Pioneer tray, Jack Mount, Cargo barrier, Ironman drawers, Glind heat exchange shower, rear twin 12V plugs, Anderson plug, Hayman Reese towbarComment
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Lytning what I am going to do (given it is almost Nov probably not until next year) is run a cable up the A pillar under the windscreen trim and along the roof seam to an Anderson plug on the factory rails. Even though I don't have the rack on all the time so the light bar will most probably be fixed to the roof rack and just be used as track lights. The other end I will run to a relay which is switched off the fog lights which I have swapped out for track lights. That way I don't have to plumb anymore switches inside. Track lights in the bar and roof if attached switched on the indicator stalk. I am making a similar arrangement for the solar panel this weekend only going the other way to the auxiliary DC DC charger in the back. Does that make sense? I need to work out cable sizes to be sure it will work.
Based on a 36" bar which draws 10A I can get away with twin 6mm2 cable which will fit under the trim. That will mean a cable run of 3m or less (should be 2.5m) to the power relay.Last edited by mjrandom; 25-10-2013, 05:13 PM.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automaticComment
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