Splitting power to rear

[mullerwh Member Find all posts View Profile Close mullerwh]

Schematic of proposed install

Attached is copy of the planned installation to charge an Arkpak in cargo area and add 2 x cig sockets at the same time. Any advice will be much appreciated?

[tassie tiger Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close tassie tiger]

Attached is copy of the planned installation to charge an Arkpak in cargo area and add 2 x cig sockets at the same time. Any advice will be much appreciated?

As in two batteries under the bonnet AND an arkpak in the back. If its this then I have no idea.

If its the std battery under the bonnet charging an arkpak in the back then I would have thought 8b&S would be fine for the run through to it. Thats what sidewinder supply for that kind of installation.

cheers

daz

[mullerwh Member Find all posts View Profile Close mullerwh]

No 2nd battery under the bonnet. The first battery in the picture is the starter battery. I have already sourced all the components and would like some advice as to whether my Circuit breakers are in the right place?

[Ghost Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ghost]

Splitting power to rear

Mine is probably well and truly over kill but I'm running 2b&s to the back of the car. But this is to facilitate the use as a override starter battery if my main batt fails. Watch your max amps on the wires 4b&s is rated to 185amp so running a 100amp breaker would be fine could even go to 150 easily but 8b&s is rated to 100amp. So I wouldn't go running 100amp circuit breakers, it depends on what you think your max draw would be down back, I've got my second batt and a 12 point nava fuse block going in (rated to max 140 amp), so will go nowhere near my 255amp on the cable. I'm going to be running a 250 amp mega fuse.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[tassie tiger Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close tassie tiger]

No 2nd battery under the bonnet. The first battery in the picture is the starter battery. I have already sourced all the components and would like some advice as to whether my Circuit breakers are in the right place?

My advice would be to put the 2b&s in the shed for later and grab some 8b&s for the charging. Its simply WAY overkill and will be a pain in the butt to run. 8b&s can be run inside the car along the sills.

Have fun whatever you do.

[slimf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close slimf]

That's no good for starting thou?

[Ghost Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ghost]

Splitting power to rear

That's no good for starting thou?

From what I have been told current draw for a starter motor is around 150 amp. So based on that nope 8b&s won't cope with it. I haven't confirmed this figure except from speaking with the auto elect that I brought my wiring from.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Australian Member Find all posts View Profile Close Australian]

A question for experts out there.... I'm going run a cable from the front to back with a circuit break and the isolator in the engine bay to an anderson socket in the cargo area for charging of an Arkpak. Do I need another circuit breaker in back just before the anderson socket?

I would suggest it's not essential. Think of fuses and circuit breakers as devices designed to protect the wiring. If there is a short circuit or a device is drawing excessive current, the fuse of circuit breaker acts as a weak point in the wiring. If you don't have this then the wiring itself will heat up from too much current and it can catch on fire. The idea then is to have it as close as possible to the battery so as to protect all the wire. The advantage of having any more fuses at the opposite end is to minimise the amount of circuits cut off in the event of over current issues. E.g. If you had a main cable from the battery to the rear of the vehicle and it was then connected to a fridge and an inverter, say the inverter short circuited, if it was individually fused then it's fuse would blow however the battery end circuit breaker and the fuse to the fridge should be intact meaning the fridge can still run. So, you don't need a fuse on the inverter but it is a good idea. You do however absolutely need a fuse or circuit breaker at the battery end. I've seen some young guys with their hotted up cars catch on fire because they wired their "fully sick" subwoofers directly to the battery without any protection. Once the power cables rub through the insulation on the chassis and it shorts, not a very happy ending, at least for them!
You live, you learn, you hope!

[tassie tiger Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close tassie tiger]

That's no good for starting thou?

Its only charging a battery in the back, not starting anything.

[Brains Find all posts View Profile Close Brains]

What is the circuit breaker installed there for? It appears to only be protecting the short bit of cable from it to the fuse box and you could do away with it - unless you are expecting a fault in that short length of cable. I suspect that the C/B is actually not going to proect anything at all becasue you ran four small cables in parallel. with a fault in one there is a chance that it will burn the cable before the C/B trips.

I am also very good at being wrong.

Mick

Mick, Like Leethal eludes to I have the circuit breaker there which runs to another internal Anderson plug on the drivers side rear of the boot area. I have installed this in case I want to run a third battery off a DCDC charger or run power from anything else that has a larger draw on the battery. I run a separate cable for my rear external Anderson plug.

Paul

[Brains Find all posts View Profile Close Brains]

Brains, how does that volt meter work? Does the little press button turn it on or is it on all the time?

Cheers

Hawk...

Hawk,

The Voltmeter runs off the switch which is a push on/push off type switch rather than being on all the time.

If you are chasing the voltmeter and switch I have some left over from another project. They are just cheapy's from ebay but serve the job. If you want a set let me know. I think the 2 cable Voltmeter is about $3.50 and the switch about $2.

Paul