I have been following this thread closely. Having just ordered a new GX the modifications will soon start! Re. VSRs..... all anyone seems to talk about are those made by Redarc. The question is will any other brand like Ironman, ABR,Pirana , Baintec etc do the same job at [mainly] cheaper prices? Secondly should such a VSR be mounted closest to the main battery or the secondary battery. My set up will eventually have to feed a third battery in the camper. Do I need another VSR between the 2nd and third batteries to stop the charge/ discharge equalizing between them? Thanks.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Dual battery setup for 2.8 1GD
Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
-
I would think any (quality) isolator would be fine 404pug, the isolator would live as close to main battery as possible - with the exception of drivesafe's model that can live anywhere along the cable run.Cheers
Micheal.
2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...
Comment
-
Originally posted by 404pug View PostMy set up will eventually have to feed a third battery in the camper. Do I need another VSR between the 2nd and third batteries to stop the charge/ discharge equalizing between them? Thanks.
There are any number of ways to achieve this ... a VSR would work (as you have suggested); a relay switch that is triggered by the ignition; if you install a DC charger in your camper to charge your camper battery (like a C-Tek or Redarc), they essentially have a VSR built-in; and of course simply pulling the lead out when you stop
Comment
-
Hi 404pug, there is actually big advantages to leaving the house and auxiliary batteries connected.
While events like InnerCityBoy’s can occur, they are very rare.
Whereas by leaving all the batteries connected, you give your setup a number of advantages.
The obvious is that you have a larger battery capacity available, meaning you can go longer before you need to drive or charge the batteries.
But also, by spreading the load over more batteries, you lessen the current draw on each battery, and this helps to extend the operating life span of the batteries..
Even is you don’t use all the battery capacity available before you drive again, because none of your batteries were as low as they would normally have to be, you will be able to fully recharge them in a shorter drive time.
Lastly, by just leaving all the batteries connected, you simplify your setup and save money at the same time.
Comment
-
Originally posted by drivesafe View PostHi 404pug, there is actually big advantages to leaving the house and auxiliary batteries connected.
While events like InnerCityBoy’s can occur, they are very rare.
Whereas by leaving all the batteries connected, you give your setup a number of advantages.
The obvious is that you have a larger battery capacity available, meaning you can go longer before you need to drive or charge the batteries.
But also, by spreading the load over more batteries, you lessen the current draw on each battery, and this helps to extend the operating life span of the batteries..
Even is you don’t use all the battery capacity available before you drive again, because none of your batteries were as low as they would normally have to be, you will be able to fully recharge them in a shorter drive time.
Lastly, by just leaving all the batteries connected, you simplify your setup and save money at the same time.
When I travel remotely I use a VSR to isolate the starting battery to ensure I can start.
The auxiliary battery is for safety and powers the HF radio and is therefore isolated by another relay from the camper.
The camper battery is for everything else which, as stated above, is almost insignificant.
We travel quite lightly and don't have an electric winch, a microwave oven or a plasma TV and we leave the nesspresso machine at home.
For our needs, it is just easier to isolate all the batteries when the alternator stops. It doesn't suit everyone.
YMMV
S.155 SX with dual battery and Polyairs in the rear springs..
Comment
-
Hi Guys
Ive followed this thread, but am still not sure there was agreement on the best way forward for a duel bat system for the 2.8L.
I have one (a 2.8L) now, and want to install the second battery in the next couple weeks. Primarily to run a 50L fridge in the back, and leave my caravan connected during short stops so the van fridge keeps power.
Has anyone heard any developments on the best solution?
Comment
-
Originally posted by Jimbo! View PostHi Guys
Ive followed this thread, but am still not sure there was agreement on the best way forward for a duel bat system for the 2.8L.
I have one (a 2.8L) now, and want to install the second battery in the next couple weeks. Primarily to run a 50L fridge in the back, and leave my caravan connected during short stops so the van fridge keeps power.
Has anyone heard any developments on the best solution?
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...Moreton-Island2016 Toyota Prado GXL auto. ARB deluxe bar, Rock Armor side steps, 9in Penetrator LED spotties (30,000LM), Uniden 8060 UHF, Bilstein/Dobinson 2in lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's, Safari snorkel, Dual battery system, ARB onboard compressor, Custom rear false floor, Kaon bash plates, Ext. diff/gearbox breathers, Provent 200, Wynnum tow bar, Roadsafe tow points, Phillips crystalvision bulbs, tint, Rhino rack platform.
Comment
-
Jimbo - you won't find agreement on this forum - some swear by DC chargers as the best way to fully charge a dual battery (whether under-bonnet or in a camper trailer), others claim (correctly from what I can tell) that they're slower than directly charging from an alternator charging, especially during the bulk charge phase for a battery that is heavily discharged.
For what it's worth I charge my under-bonnet dual battery direct from the alternator (through an isolator) and find it works well. I have a DC charger in my camper trailer to charge the camper battery which also works well. I don't, however, have any hard numbers on how quickly the batteries get charged.
Personally I would charge your under-bonnet battery direct from the alternator and see if it charges the battery suitably for your needs. You can choose to add a DC charger later if needed.
Comment
-
Excellent thread. Thanks. I am going to simply use my Pirhana DBE 150S dual management system I took out of the 3.0L and put it in my new 2.8L. I have a very similar set up to InnerCityBoy but simply disconnect car and camper trailer when parked up [electrically anyway]. This set up has worked well for years for me. I do have panels for when parked up for any length of time.
What I can't find is an ignition switched power source on the drivers side rear engine bay. I have searched the forum to no avail. The green wire to the wiper motor I have read about seems to be constant 12v. Please advise.
Comment
-
The green wire in the pre updates at least is definitely acc switched. I use it to trigger my compressor. Surprised if it is constant 12V.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
Comment
-
Originally posted by mjrandom View PostThe green wire in the pre updates at least is definitely acc switched. I use it to trigger my compressor. Surprised if it is constant 12V.
Comment
Comment