That is weird. A change to switch earth on the wipers seems an odd thing to do.
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Dual battery setup for 2.8 1GD
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My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
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Just throwing my two cents in to help someone to make the decision on their dual battery setup. The dual battery set up in my 2.8l was vastly different to my previous 4wd's, using just simple battery isolator. I just assumed it would be a Low Voltage alternator and save the heartache of chasing poorly managed aux batteries and warm beer. Plus, I can use solar to charge the aux battery whilst stationary.
The system I went with:
Piranha aux tray
Redarc 1240 LV including relay, and
240w folding solar panel.
I used as the ignition source, DRL wiring as they only come on once you hit the ignition button. Finding an easy ignition source in the newer, smarter vehicles is becoming a pain.
I welded up a bracket to allow air flow around the DC charger and have the relay close to it to minimise wiring within the engine bay. I didn't bother in using the MPPT charger in the solar panels and just let the Redarc do the work.
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Originally posted by Black150 View PostJust throwing my two cents in to help someone to make the decision on their dual battery setup. The dual battery set up in my 2.8l was vastly different to my previous 4wd's, using just simple battery isolator. I just assumed it would be a Low Voltage alternator and save the heartache of chasing poorly managed aux batteries and warm beer. Plus, I can use solar to charge the aux battery whilst stationary.
The system I went with:
Piranha aux tray
Redarc 1240 LV including relay, and
240w folding solar panel.
I used as the ignition source, DRL wiring as they only come on once you hit the ignition button. Finding an easy ignition source in the newer, smarter vehicles is becoming a pain.
I welded up a bracket to allow air flow around the DC charger and have the relay close to it to minimise wiring within the engine bay. I didn't bother in using the MPPT charger in the solar panels and just let the Redarc do the work.
Thanks for that - the DRL wiring makes sense as an ignition power source
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My new Prado should be here next week and i'm struggling to decide which way to go with dual battery isolators as wel. I don't suppose there has been any developments? Does anyone know much about the Intervolt EBI 12100A? It seems you can adjust the voltage when it joins and isolates the battery's if I am reading correctly, would this help the situation any? Any input from the experts on here would be appreciated.
http://www.intervolt.com/product/ele...tery-isolator/
Thanks
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Have just read all the posts on this thread, and, for somebody who thinks that electrickery is white mans' magic, I condensed it all down to I think I need to charge my under-bonnet dual battery direct from the alternator through an isolator.
Vehicle is a Prado GXL manual 2.8 diesel 4/16 build. The deep cycle battery will be used to maintain a Waeco CFX40 in the rear and a few 12v accesoory switches for LED lighting etc. No camper trailer or caravan involved at this stage.
Is this something that would fit the bill?
http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page166a.html
Or are there better/cheaper off-the-shelf options that can be suggested?
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Originally posted by Sarco View PostHave just read all the posts on this thread, and, for somebody who thinks that electrickery is white mans' magic, I condensed it all down to I think I need to charge my under-bonnet dual battery direct from the alternator through an isolator.
Vehicle is a Prado GXL manual 2.8 diesel 4/16 build. The deep cycle battery will be used to maintain a Waeco CFX40 in the rear and a few 12v accesoory switches for LED lighting etc. No camper trailer or caravan involved at this stage.
Is this something that would fit the bill?
http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page166a.html
Or are there better/cheaper off-the-shelf options that can be suggested?2016 Toyota Prado GXL auto. ARB deluxe bar, Rock Armor side steps, 9in Penetrator LED spotties (30,000LM), Uniden 8060 UHF, Bilstein/Dobinson 2in lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's, Safari snorkel, Dual battery system, ARB onboard compressor, Custom rear false floor, Kaon bash plates, Ext. diff/gearbox breathers, Provent 200, Wynnum tow bar, Roadsafe tow points, Phillips crystalvision bulbs, tint, Rhino rack platform.
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Just picked up my new 150 GX. Why would anyone buy a battery tray for the second battery? The construction of the base is IDENTICAL to that for the main battery. As I see it I just need a plastic tray like the starter battery and the brackets to hold the battery down. A stay from the top of the battery to the radiator panel could easily be added to stop any rocking that so bedevilled 120s and early 150s. Cost? ... close to zero. Am I on the right track?
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Something like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-PA...UAAOSwcu5UUGIl
Any auto shop will have the clamps though I swapped the lightweight top brace for some steel angle and flat bar to brace to the front cross member.Cheers
Micheal.
2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...
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I'm about to take delivery of my 2.8 150 (I'm very surprised they kept the same model designation considering how much has changed) so this thread has been a wealth of info - thanks to all who have contributed.
Originally posted by Black150 View PostI used as the ignition source, DRL wiring as they only come on once you hit the ignition button. Finding an easy ignition source in the newer, smarter vehicles is becoming a pain.
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Originally posted by drivesafe View PostThanks for that graph Leigh.
As that graph clearly shows, an alternator will do a much better job.
The charger's lower trickle voltage (13.2V) may well also be kinder during all those months you're driving around town and not camping, with a permanently fully charged camping battery.Last edited by dBC; 07-08-2016, 04:43 PM.
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Originally posted by 404pug View PostAbout to install my second battery. I have been watching the voltage for a few weeks. It starts at about 13.7-13.8v and has never dropped below 13.4. My isolator opens at 13.2 so hopefully that will work!
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