Is my alternator stuffed?

[andoland Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close andoland]

Just trying to avoid paying for Toyota to diagnose a possibly obvious problem.

On my way to the train station this morning the "Charging System" light (red battery) came on and has not gone out. The manual just says go to the dealer. From what I've read on here I'm pretty sure its the alternator, and if so I'll try to buy one a replace it myself, but want to be positive that is the issue.

I've put a multimeter on the main battery tonight and it's reading ~12.25 V with the engine turned off and the same with the engine running. The auxiliary battery is showing 12.8V. Is this pretty clearly a stuffed alternator? If not what else should I be checking?

Thanks
Chris

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

She ought to be out-putting around 13.9 - 14.2 volts running after start up

[andoland Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close andoland]

Yep, that's what I thought.

Any ideas on where to get a good quality aftermarket alternator?

And does anyone know what the standard alternator output is? I had a look on the web today and there seems to be 80A, 100A and 130A versions but I have no idea what is fitted as standard.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

The 150 uses a 130 amp alternator. I run one in my 120, it's an OEX from Blackwoods. Mixed feedback on them from others who have had them fail early. Mine has been going good for about 9 months now. They can be found on ebay cheap, also from Toyota but search for a good price. You can pay up to 800 - 900 from some place, but you can probably get one a lot cheaper.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Also, check your accessory belt and the alternator mountings and bolts. I broke a top bolt which caused the alternator voltage to fluctuate and the belt to slip.

[Nebulous Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nebulous]

If you are going to remove it yourself why not get your local Autosparkie (trusted/with good rep) to just rebuild it, or at least get a quote. If it has not been destroyed in some way ie full of mud/sand/water for weeks and weeks etc, then it is just a test, check the diodes, new bushes, new bearings and paint (insulating paint/varnish on the windings). Should be cheaper than a new one.

[JimmyC Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close JimmyC]

Check this out for a bit of an idea of how to replace.
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...lacement-Guide
In my opinion avoid OEX brand, had 2 fail on me in 3 months.

[andoland Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close andoland]

Thanks for the info guys. JimmyC i read your post yesterday and plan to do the change out myself.

I think I can confidently say the problem is the alternator. Leaving for work this morning I fog about 100m from home when the car died. Luckily I had jumper leads so jump started myself from the aux battery, left the leads connected and drove the 100m or so home. Lifted the bonnet to remove the jumper leads and there was smoke coming from the alternator. Oops.

[JimmyC Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close JimmyC]

No worries at all. Glad to help. It definitely sounds like your alternator is buggered.
One tip i didn't add to the guide at the time is as soon as possible start putting some wd40 (or similar penetrant) onto the mounting bolts. Will make your life easier when it comes time for the swap!

[andoland Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close andoland]

Toyota wanted $776 for a new alternator. Found a genuine one on ebay for $439 delivered so that is on it's way, hopefully here before the weekend.

[JimmyC Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close JimmyC]

Toyota wanted $776 for a new alternator. Found a genuine one on ebay for $439 delivered so that is on it's way, hopefully here before the weekend.

That sounds like the exact one I have. 12,000km and a very wet Simpson Crossing and it's still perfect.

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

Until I read the bit about the smoking alternator I was going to suggest the obvious, check all your fuses before forking out for a new one.

[andoland Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close andoland]

Thanks Whitey1. I have a voltage increasing diode so I took that out and put an ordinary fuse in its place to check that wasn't the issue, but the lack of voltage was the main indicator, confirmed by the loss of smoke this morning :lol:

[GEEEXL Member Find all posts View Profile Close GEEEXL]

voltage increasing diode

Thanks Whitey1. I have a voltage increasing diode so I took that out and put an ordinary fuse in its place to check that wasn't the issue, but the lack of voltage was the main indicator, confirmed by the loss of smoke this morning :lol:

I have always wondered if the diode puts the alt into an unsustainable duty cycle? in effect rendering the VSR option an unreliable option with no financial benefit in comparison to the dcdc option?

im not saying i believe either way just posing the question?

[andoland Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close andoland]

Don't really know. I wouldn't think it was likely to result in excessive duty for the alternator. A 0.8V step increase over say 13.6V is 6% increase, but max power output is only required from the alternator for a short period of time so it seems unlikely, but I don't really know. It's a bit disappointing to have an alternator fail after only 140,000 km but I'm happy to believe its just a random early life failure.