Redarc SBi12 on 2018 Prado

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Where are you locating the auxiliary battery?

[Vanders Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Vanders]

Preferably under the bonnet but open to cargo bay if required.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Hi t303, Sterling make 180 amp Battery to Battery hagers ( their version of DC/DC ) and these come with the ability to be set to charge lithium’s.

If you google Sterling Australia, you with get the importer’s web site.

Thanks for the link, my priority is to find an alternator that can put out close to it's rated power continuously. I would have Li everywhere if I could, maybe an insulated, ventilated underbonnet nook could be built. There is still nothing that compares for DOD and recharge flexibility. For on vehicle use I actually don't need anything except alternator capacity, my system charges at about 13.4V at the rear so DC-DC chargers are not required, and would actually just put more losses into the system. I guess I could go 4B&S, but that starts to get difficult to route.
Do these lead crystal have noticeably reduced taper-off as they approach charge? That is what I like about Li, it will take every last available amp until about 13.4V before it starts to reduce (although you are hard pressed to notice the drop). A 35A charger in 13.8V PS mode (13.6 would probably be better) is all that is needed.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Hi Leigh, sorry for the uneducated questions but what are you suggesting here? What do I need? I was only hoping to use the SBi12 as I already have it but no big deal if it's not suitable.

I basically want the following:

* Run a fridge in the cargo area
* External located anderson plug for input from solar panel to charge aux when stationary
* External located anderson plug output to feed basic led light system around camp and occasionally an inverter

I'm happy to locate the aux in the cargo if need be or under the bonnet, but based on what I've read on these lead crystal I'm thinking they're worth a try.

P.S. Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate the feedback.

My .02c, I would fit SB12 under bonnet and run 6B&S to the rear and put it in the back, for the reasons of weight, temp and access. Expect around .5V drop from alternator to the rear under load/charge from my experience with the same setup. The fridge and inverter will appreciate the short cable run from the battery, and an external anderson at the rear will allow both solar charging and connection for services. Depending on the size of the inverter, you may well need 6B&S run to the rear to run it anyway.
cheers
Steve

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

If you go for a cargo bay install then a lead crystal battery and DCDC charger would be my recommendation.

303 google Betta batteries, they have data sheets for the batteries.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Hi Vanders,

I would go with Tim's recommendation, he has indicated a VSR setup is ok but locate the battery
in the rear of the vehicle to protect it from heat.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

If you go for a cargo bay install then a lead crystal battery and DCDC charger would be my recommendation.

303 google Betta batteries, they have data sheets for the batteries.

Thanks mate, can't get a datasheet without signing up for spam. I was mainly interested in the charge characteristics as they near "full". So far I have yet to see any battery that approaches Li capability from the perspective of lower voltage (alternator) charging. Always looking for ways to reduce the technology to reduce the "processing" losses.
I'll be sticking with my Lithiums until something better comes along

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Just put in garbage then you can download the sheet without further contact.

[dBC Member Find all posts View Profile Close dBC]

If you go for a cargo bay install then a lead crystal battery and DCDC charger would be my recommendation.

I'd second that, or at least hold off deciding until you've had a chance to slap a voltmeter across your cranking battery. If you're seeing the 13.5V there that some of us see, you might be disappointed in the voltage you get down the back. I guess you could always suck-it-and-see and then add the DCDC later if turns out to be an issue.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Just had a squizz at the data sheets: 14.7V for a full charge, it appears that there is no way you can get these suckers charged without a DC-DC by the looks? Still not persuaded that they come anywhere near Lithiums I'm afraid. Heavy as hell, still need high voltages to charge, circa 500-1000 cycles depending on temp and DOD. They appear to have similar characteristics to AGM, or am I missing something?

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Similar definitely. Still heavy. I am nervous about Li batteries and the cost of those at the moment. Cycle ability is much much better.

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Just had a squizz at the data sheets: 14.7V for a full charge, it appears that there is no way you can get these suckers charged without a DC-DC by the looks? Still not persuaded that they come anywhere near Lithiums I'm afraid. Heavy as hell, still need high voltages to charge, circa 500-1000 cycles depending on temp and DOD. They appear to have similar characteristics to AGM, or am I missing something?

Where in the specs does it say you need 14.7v to fully charge a Lead Crystal battery. 14.7v is the maximum voltage @ 25C. It’s 14.4v @ 40C and again, these are the MAXIMUM voltages.

Cycles are 1250 @ 40C down to 20% SoC and 20%SoC is as low as you can take a Lithium battery.

If you are going to make comparisons, at least use correct info, and you forgot to mention the difference in price, less than half that of an equivalent lithium.

[Vanders Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Vanders]

P.m. sent drivesafe

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Where in the specs does it say you need 14.7v to fully charge a Lead Crystal battery. 14.7v is the maximum voltage @ 25C. It’s 14.4v @ 40C and again, these are the MAXIMUM voltages.

Cycles are 1250 @ 40C down to 20% SoC and 20%SoC is as low as you can take a Lithium battery.

If you are going to make comparisons, at least use correct info, and you forgot to mention the difference in price, less than half that of an equivalent lithium.

Apologies, but that was what I gleaned from my inexpert perusal of the charts.

How do you conclude that 20% is "as low as you can take a Li battery"? The first two cycles I took out of my new Li pack were 100 and 101Ah (according to the PL20 reg, which is all I have) and I terminated the 17A load at 11.4V. That's 100% of claimed capacity and still above the 11.2V min specified by GBS for a 12V pack (2.5V single cell). It may well decline with age, but so will the LC.
Sorry, but IMHO there is not a LA battery that is "equivalent" to a LiFeP04 in what I consider important: weight, cycles and lower charge voltage requirements (therefore needing less power consuming "gear" to boost V); so being less than half the price seems to be the only benefit. Perhaps on a $ per cycle value they might arguably be similar given the Li has been tested (albeit by the manufacturer, as I assume this LC has) to 2000 cycles (100% DOD).
It appears to this mug punter that their only equivalence is (maybe) price/cycle?

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Apologies, but that was what I gleaned from my inexpert perusal of the charts.

How do you conclude that 20% is "as low as you can take a Li battery"? The first two cycles I took out of my new Li pack were 100 and 101Ah (according to the PL20 reg, which is all I have) and I terminated the 17A load at 11.4V. That's 100% of claimed capacity and still above the 11.2V min specified by GBS for a 12V pack (2.5V single cell). It may well decline with age, but so will the LC.
Sorry, but IMHO there is not a LA battery that is "equivalent" to a LiFeP04 in what I consider important: weight, cycles and lower charge voltage requirements (therefore needing less power consuming "gear" to boost V); so being less than half the price seems to be the only benefit. Perhaps on a $ per cycle value they might arguably be similar given the Li has been tested (albeit by the manufacturer, as I assume this LC has) to 2000 cycles (100% DOD).
It appears to this mug punter that their only equivalence is (maybe) price/cycle?

So how about you post up the brand and specs for your battery?