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DCDC or BCDC charger Prado 2010 VX with smart alternator

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  • DCDC or BCDC charger Prado 2010 VX with smart alternator

    Good morning all,
    new Prado owner & forum poster here, so sorry if this question has been asked before.

    Looking at a dual battery system ( under bonnet) for our 2010 VX and the info out there is giving me a headache!
    primarily this will be used to power our 60L Evakool fridge, aux power for running led strip lights & charging phones/devices etc.

    we have a smart alternator, so I have been told we need a DCDC charger, but then if I read more some suggest a BCDC charger - all pointing to redarc. Then the next article states that the BCDC is the prefix used by redarc and theirs is essentially a DCDC charger. Can someone please help with this?

    has anyone rewired the cars existing 240v output (located in the rear) to the aux battery?

    Also, is anyone aware of any aftermarket wiring kits available for a DCDC charger where you donít want to install a battery box?

    thanks in advance

  • #2
    You don't have a smart alternator you have a temperature controlled unit, you just need a normal VSR setup and a booster diode, this will give you better performance than a DCDC charger just make sure the battery you use for the aux can handle the recharge current, something like the Century Dual force or Marine pro.

    BCDC is Redarc trading name for a DCDC.

    PS I will be releasing a new adjustable voltage version of my booster diode shortly but it will be considerably more expensive than the fixed voltage type.
    HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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    • #3
      Leigh, what would the benefits be for running your new adjustable voltage version of the diode over your current diode that I am running successful in my vehicle?

      Also without hijacking Penny's mums question, have you any suggestions on the best way for running a charge wire to the van in tow to provide power into the vans Enerdrive dc2dc charger? Currently running a VRS system for the cars dual battery with your diode running fridge in car, similar to what you suggest above. Wondering should I feed the van from main battery or 2 nd battery?
      New 2015 150s GX 5 seater with floor mats, towbar and a big wish list
      Previously a 2004 120s 1KZ GX silver manual with stuff
      before that a 1996 RV6 90S with lots of gear

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      • #4
        Rags,

        The DCDC in the van should run of the main, the reason being it could be drawing upwards of 40A for the 30A version of the DC2DC or 50A for the 40A version.
        This will cause a volt drop across any cabling between the main and the aux and affect its charging.

        I run my cabling from the engine bay into the cab and through the sills and out through one of the blanking plugs in the bottom of the rear gaurd near where the jack is stored in the 120. You could also run it through the chassis rails but if you do make sure where it enters and exits the rails it is protected from anything you may run over if you intended to go off road.

        The adjustable unit will allow you to fine tune your charge voltage, every alternator voltage regulator varies slightly from another, if you happen to get one on the low
        side you can adjust the booster to suit, ie generally you will get around [email protected] with the booster installed, very occasionally though an alternator might only achieve 13.8V.

        The Optimum charge rate for most batteries is around [email protected], but if your using sealed AGM's they don't like being charged at this voltage once fully charged for long periods of time hence 14.2V being the better compromise. Most though don't drive for long periods with fully charged batteries they usually have trouble fully charging them, if this is you then you can raise the charge voltage to 14.4V for instance and optimize your charge rate.

        When travelling up north and doing rock crawling for instance the under bonnet temperatures will rise and the alternator will wind back the voltage which is a good thing. However not a lot do rock crawling, you usually travelling on a highway where again the under bonnet temperatures will rise and the alternator winds back, the batteries though in a Prado are mounted in a cool air stream behind the headlights in this condition the charge rate then becomes low for them, the adjustable booster will allow you again to optimize the charge rate to suit. Same if you only do mostly short trips where your batteries never get fully charged you can gain optimize the charge voltage to suit your needs.

        Warning though the adjustable booster can be a very worthwhile tool in the right hands, it could also cause you grief if you don't know what your doing. Increasing the vehicles float voltage above .6V should only be done by those that have a knowledge of battery charging requirements and what they are doing.
        HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Leigh. yes the dc2dc charger is the 40amp version. I will run from the main battery then, I was just concern about the effect on the 2 nd under bonnet battery.
          New 2015 150s GX 5 seater with floor mats, towbar and a big wish list
          Previously a 2004 120s 1KZ GX silver manual with stuff
          before that a 1996 RV6 90S with lots of gear

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          • #6
            Many thanks for your assistance Leigh W, much appreciated.

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            • #7
              Thanks - i am installing a Projecta DCDC thingy on the weekend and i was wondering if i needed to connect the blue wire

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              • #8
                No you don’t mines been on my car 2019 prado have projector for year no dramas

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                • #9
                  I am looking to run a fridge and freezer (both engel 40L) off my auxillary battery. The projecta is a 25amp unit and the fridges draw 3amp (from internet research) when running. So when the units are running they will take the first 6 amps leaving 19amps (minus loses) to into the battery? thats gunna take some serious driving to keep the battery topped up. Might need to invest in another 160W solar panel.

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                  • #10
                    Wil, those figures are why there is so much debate about what is the “best” method to charge a second battery. IMO if you do a lot of driving then the DCDC works well but if you do short runs or stay in one place a lot then the DCDC option falls away and a simple VSR arrangement looks good especially when yo add in a decent solar array which can fully charge your battery.

                    In my opinion there is no one correct solution but you need to know what your usage will be.

                    I also believe the fridge amp draw figures are an average over 24 hours in most cases.

                    Lee
                    02 VX, Toyota Alloy Bar, IPF 900XS with 50 watt HID, 50 mm Lift- Lovell Shocks n Springs, Safari Snorkel, large Pioneer tray, Pioneer In-dash, Alpine roof mount DVD screen -handled the Simpson and Innaminka roads, now with a little TRD blower & Unichip

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                    • #11
                      Yeah. The reason i went down this path is i have installed a 160w solar panel and i needed a mppt regulator anyway.

                      Its interesting to watch the battery monitor whilst the unit is using input from the alternator. It charges for a minute then off for a minute.

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