Oil Catch Can for catching Blow-by....

[Justinvv Member Find all posts View Profile Close Justinvv]

I removed the steel pipe and went down to the turbo. Less places for failure and its a lot neater. Originally (for the first day) I had it connected to the rubber elbow on the steel pipe. Same size joiner required for the turbo inlet as the elbow.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/64022018@N03/QsZe05

https://www.flickr.com/gp/64022018@N03/X6887k

[evltoy Member Find all posts View Profile Close evltoy]

I removed the steel pipe and went down to the turbo. Less places for failure and its a lot neater. Originally (for the first day) I had it connected to the rubber elbow on the steel pipe. Same size joiner required for the turbo inlet as the elbow.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/64022018@N03/QsZe05

https://www.flickr.com/gp/64022018@N03/X6887k

Nice detailed photos. This is how mine is setup too.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Evltoy just make sure you check and empty the can regularly. If the can fills up with oil it will still get into the pulminary system.

[lordsword Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close lordsword]

OK so after pulling my hair out trying to figure out where this bloody 1000rpm vibration was coming from, I've finally nailed it.
The lid on the oil catch can is the culprit. I took the lid off and closed the bonnet and got in the car and.... pure silence. So stoked.
So anyway, I managed to pull the spring off the inside of the lid and the noise has all but gone, there's definitely an audible rattle when bonnet open and head next to the can, but can't hear anything in the cab, which is all I care about.
Now I'm wondering is it a bad thing to not have the spring inside the lid? It just holds the black plastic piece that seems to be moveable up and down within the lid.
Can't see how this spring not being there would be detrimental? The lid is still secure and sealed.

While motor was running and the lid was off, it was amazing to see how much smoke/mist was coming through the inlet valve of the can! Very glad this is no longer going straight back into the turbo!

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

That spring allows for exhaust if the unit is overpressured. This should never happen but you never know. The spring on the check valve in the base of the unit is to limit the amount of suction, or pressure to low.
A lot of 4 cylinder motors will suffer from this rattle as the pulsing is high, 6 or 8 cylinder not so high. We fixed ours by placing a 8mm restricter in the line between the turbo and the provent.

Rusty.

[evltoy Member Find all posts View Profile Close evltoy]

That spring allows for exhaust if the unit is overpressured. This should never happen but you never know. The spring on the check valve in the base of the unit is to limit the amount of suction, or pressure to low.
A lot of 4 cylinder motors will suffer from this rattle as the pulsing is high, 6 or 8 cylinder not so high. We fixed ours by placing a 8mm restricter in the line between the turbo and the provent.

Rusty.

I have this sound from 1100-1800rpm (driving normal) and did hear its a common noise with the provent 200 model on the Prado 4 cylinder. When doing 100km I dont hear it as the rpm is 1900. I'm used to the noise's and dont know any better since I installed the unit with only 3k on the clock.

Can you explain in more detail what you did and a photo would help too?

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

sorry no pic. Used a piece of 25mm round or the ID of the tube you are using, round brass, but any material would as long as it was impervious to oil. We have used 25mm pipe from the turbo to the provent and removed the Toyota steel pipe. Cut the piece approx 25 mm long and drill a 8mm hole though the middle. Install this piece inside the line and use a clamp around the pipe to hold it in place close to the provent. This then smooths the flow out to the provent and evens the suction and the valve stops rattling. Our first provent had this valve fail because of the constant open - close rattle.

Rusty.

[Justinvv Member Find all posts View Profile Close Justinvv]

I just stretched both the valve springs a little. Its not actually the one in the lid that rattles, its the other one. That fixed it immediately.

[lordsword Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close lordsword]

I just stretched both the valve springs a little. Its not actually the one in the lid that rattles, its the other one. That fixed it immediately.

I removed the spring entirely from the lid and the rattle (the annoying one at 1000rpm inside the cabin) has gone for me. But will definitely have a go stretching it and see how it goes with it back in.
Wondering where this other spring is located? Please forgive my ignorance

[lordsword Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close lordsword]

That spring allows for exhaust if the unit is overpressured. This should never happen but you never know. The spring on the check valve in the base of the unit is to limit the amount of suction, or pressure to low.
A lot of 4 cylinder motors will suffer from this rattle as the pulsing is high, 6 or 8 cylinder not so high. We fixed ours by placing a 8mm restricter in the line between the turbo and the provent.

Rusty.

Without the spring, the valve (if that's what it is?) in the lid still goes up and down, albeit with no resistance.
So thinking without the spring it still does its job if over-pressurising occurs? Or am I asking for trouble leaving it off??

[evltoy Member Find all posts View Profile Close evltoy]

I just stretched both the valve springs a little. Its not actually the one in the lid that rattles, its the other one. That fixed it immediately.

I think I'll give this a crack on the weekend and see if the sound goes away or not

[Nightrod111 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nightrod111]

Wow! That looks pretty good. The real test is when you check the outlet hose after 2000km for any oil residue - doesn't matter if there is oil caught in the bottom of the catch can, if oil mist still gets out, it just delays the inevitable intake clean.

Done about 1500 ks and i have a little bit of dried up oil in the outlet pipe. I wrapped a rag around a screwdriver and shoved it into the pipe.
Im not really concerned as its not much at all.


Does the provent catch can allow any residue to pass through the outlet?

[Joe Lighty Member Find all posts View Profile Close Joe Lighty]

Howdy. eB@y have a 15% off deal at the moment and I've been considering a Provent 200 catch can. The Provent 200 on its own is $170 and the "kit" is $310. Is there sufficient value in the "kit" with bracket, hoses, drain tubes etc, to warrant an extra $140 or could I source most stuff from elsewhere for much less? Obviously if there's not much difference I could get the kit and be done with it...

[MYT150 Member Find all posts View Profile Close MYT150]

Joe,

I bought the kit for mine and it was very easy to fit, as it had all the hoses the right length and the mounting bracket and the drain hose. Saved all the stuffing around trying to get things separately, and was quick and easy to fit. By the time you get good quality hose and reducers you would have spend the money anyway, unless you know someone that can get them cheap for you.

[Toyo Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toyo]

Depends on your perspective, there are people that will find the kit better because it comes with everything you need, hoses, clamps, screws, adapter to bolt it on etc.
If you are a DIY guy and have the tools to make an adapter and dont mind looking for the hoses, adapters, clamps, screws and the rest of the things needed then you should get the catch can only.
Personally, for me the kit would be the best option. Everything you need, unbox and bolt on!