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Reasonable life expectancy of D4D diesel engine

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  • #31
    It's probably worth explaining the background to what I said about urban myths and fiction.

    I'm quite passionate about maintenance, the blokes who worked in the last workshop that I managed would probably say overly fussy. On a personal note I've owned everything from rotary engined Mazdas, old European exotics through to Aussie v8s and a bunch of motorbikes. The Prado is the first vehicle that I've owned that I haven't serviced myself.

    I learnt both from maintaining my own vehicles and also the equipment I was in charge of, in particular the hydraulic systems. To come up with the best maintenance practice its good to start by considering the purpose of lubricants and fluids in an engine.

    Lubricants and other fluids are like the blood of an engine and there are 2 reasons they become ineffective.
    1. The lubricants and fluids loose their lubricating, cooling or other properties due to age, heat, environmental factors or other degradation factors
    2. The lubricants or fluids become contaminated with particles, or other contaminants such as water.

    Something to consider is that modern lubricants and fluids keep their properties for much longer than earlier products, and this is aided by improved system and filtration design eg cooling systems generally help keep temperatures under control better than in the past.

    Filters help collect the contaminants and extend the life of lubricants and other fluids. There are a few things that can happen to filters,
    - they can become clogged causing the system to bypass the filter or far worse cause fluid starvation resulting in mechanical damage.
    - they can suffer damage meaning they don't filter anymore as they let fluids straight through.
    So filters should be changed regularly and the quality of filters does matter. But it is also true that as filters bed-in they start filtering more effectively, in other words as they become slightly "clogged" (probably not a good choice of words) and they become finer filters. On some equipment that I have looked after we would change filters and not lubricants, and on other systems that we looked after we would change the lubricants and not the filters

    The only real way to know when to change fluids and filters is through monitoring and sampling, and while I did this for the equipment that I maintained, it is too costly and impractical in my car. I did learn through sampling that generally manufactures are very conservative with their maintenance schedules, basing them on worst case scenarios such as extreme cold or heat and or continual cold starting.

    I strongly believe that all equipment should be regularly serviced. The point I was making with my previous post is that over-servicing, which is quite common with the best of intentions, can have negative consequences. It is no-where near as bad as under servicing, but if you want the best protection for your car and engine then you need to make informed decisions.

    My philosophy based on my experience and the reasons that I have given is to follow and some times go past manufactures recommendations. I tend to adjust my service intervals based on what the equipment is doing. I also always replace all fluids when purchasing a second hand vehicle. I'm not suggesting that anyone else should do this.

    Perhaps most importantly you should not just look at replacing lubricants and filters, but also how they are replaced. Someone who does 5000km oil changes using dirty equipment and open drums may do more damage then if they followed the service schedule.
    krypto
    Avid PP Poster!
    Last edited by krypto; 18-12-2011, 02:49 PM.
    [B]Steve[/B]

    2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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    • #32
      Thanks for that guys...... Helps to know people's experience/history and I'm sure this will also help those that don't have a mechanical back ground (myself incl'd - sparky) when it comes to making a suitable discision....

      On a side note..... The owners manual indicates 10k servicing intervals... I would assume this would be dependant on the "type" of drivinig done between the servicing intervals. I would assume H'way driving much more suitable than the local mum driving to/from the shops, dropping the kids off, stop/starting, etc etc etc..... With this sort of driving, I would reckon servicing before 10k would be more suitable or required.... would this be correct? Dusty driving is a whole other issue to I guess


      rob
      [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
      [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
      [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
      [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
      [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

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      • #33
        Hi people ,I have been reading this thread and It is excellent .thank you just to add my little bit being an ex farmer and military With my Prado Shortie I have added a Racor 600 10 micron before the OE 2 micron fuel filter. The 600 has a water bowl with a water sensor and alarm as does the OE .I change the racor600 at 10k and the OE at 15k I'm not sure if the shorty has a fuel filter by the tank as it is a 80 liter .I change my engine oil and filter every 5k and I change my bypass oil filter every15k (which I added )I use the Toyota oil I also have added an trans oil cooler and a K&N oil filter in the out line before the radiator .I'm now at 30k and I intend to flush my trans at 40k .I have also added a oil temp and trans temp gauge with a oil pressure gauge on my dash to tell me before something is wrong .I know it maybe over the top for some but my experience is prevention is better than the cure Cheers Foxy

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        • #34
          Sorry I meant the Racor 460 filter Cheers foxy

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          • #35
            I'm not sure if this is the right spot for this so bear with me,
            But does any know if the factory ECU looks at engine oil temp and if so is it possible to proramme it into the X gauge on on the scangauge2 unit to get an actual temp reading?
            2010,Prado 150 D4D GXL manual, ARB deluxe bar, iron man 9500 winch, IPF 900XS converted HID, pirrana duel battery tray and controller, 50mm lift toughdog springs and shocks, GME TX3440 uhf, false floor and ORS fridge slide 60ltr Waeco fridge, kaymar rear bar, with anderson plug, safari snorkel, Mickey Thompson 265/70R/17.

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            • #36
              I am wondering about fitting a centrifugal oil filter to a d4d motor. dous anny one have anny experience along these lines?

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              • #37
                I was considering one of these when I was in the market for my car a few years ago. I didn't bother in the end as mounting it was a problem in the engine bay, the hoses were another failure point and normal filters were cheap so changing every 5000km wasn't an issue. I've seen the filter elements on these filters on diesel truck engine when they're due for replacement. They mainly appear to trap carbon in the oil from blow by. The filters I've seen had a few millimeters of crud on the element.
                2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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                • #38
                  I don't think there is much to worry about really. Our work D4D does heaps of short trips, experiences plenty of rugged stuff and pulls trailers etc. Never had genuine Toyota filters or special toyota oil just Ryco filters and standard diesel oil every 10,000km. 90,000kms on the clock and as good as new.
                  2004 GXL V6, 5 Sp Auto

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Offroader View Post
                    I don't think there is much to worry about really. Our work D4D does heaps of short trips, experiences plenty of rugged stuff and pulls trailers etc. Never had genuine Toyota filters or special toyota oil just Ryco filters and standard diesel oil every 10,000km. 90,000kms on the clock and as good as new.
                    90,000km isn't very many km's though...
                    2011 150series GXL

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                    • #40
                      Update on prado at 59000kms and a worrying development

                      Hello all - been away from the site for a while but wanted to give an update since the beginning of this thread.

                      Prado is now on 59000kms. About 6 weeks ago, I started to get a metallic rattle when the engine was cold. This would go on for about 10 mins until warmed up. It was like a 'ticking' sound which increased in frequency as I accelerated. Went to see the dealer where I bought it ( should I mention names?). They said that all was OK and they couldn't hear anything. I doubted they have road tested it but took them at their word and drove home.
                      Next morning same thing, the damn metallic ticking with others in the car hearing it too. Took it back and left it with the dealership for a week ( I was away interstate). Picked it up, still there. I then called back and they said that the head mechanic couldn't find any problem and apparently couldn't hear it. ( The dealership is supposedly a very good one in Sydney). Then after telling me nothing was wrong came the interesting comment - what diesel are you using? Since reading about different diesels on this site ( I used to think they were all the same) I only use Caltex, Shell or BP. They suggested whatever I was using that I should change brands.
                      After listening to this rattle for a few more weeks, I took it back in again for a week so that they could take it out in the morning and listen to it. The head mechanic then did some sort of re-progaming of the engine ( remapping) and asked me to let him know how it was. All that has happened is that the metallic rattle has changed in sound. It is still there every morning and now seems to last even when the engine is warmed up. I have complained again that it is still there and now I have been told that perhaps it is algae in the tank due to me using poor diesel. I told them that I only use diesel from BP these days and they then suggested that perhaps it has been sitting in the BP tanks for too long. Am I getting the run around or what? Does anyone have any advice as to what to do?
                      Toyota 150 DVD Silver Pearl, original towbar, Yokohama Geolandar ATS

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                      • #41
                        Try cleaning the air flow sensor and the intake. I find my motor runs rattly on Caltex fuel. When I use Shell diesel I don't get much rattle at light throttle.
                        2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by gxl_d4d View Post
                          Try cleaning the air flow sensor and the intake. I find my motor runs rattly on Caltex fuel. When I use Shell diesel I don't get much rattle at light throttle.
                          Thanks gxl. It is at the dealers getting it's 60000 service; let's see if they do anything this time. Not sure where the air flow sensor is but I will ask them. Thanks again.
                          Toyota 150 DVD Silver Pearl, original towbar, Yokohama Geolandar ATS

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                          • #43
                            Sounds like the diesel rattle issue that plagued the early D4Ds in the 120 series
                            http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...e-in-D4D-Prado

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                            • #44
                              The local arb shop in my area has a 4d hi lux with over 320,000 k. I think they did the injectors at 280,000. Has not missed a beat. Also spoke to a taxis driver with 4d motor in his shuttle, he had 800.000 and only minor repairs. Also another driver has a 4d commercial van, and they are averaging 1 million k's. He told me this is normal.

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                              • #45
                                Just got it back from the 60k service and doesn't seem so bad. Heading up to north NSW coast for Easter so will give it a workout and report back. BTW, they lent me a toyota kluger while the service was being done. Talk about thirsty. It was showing 14.5l/100kms. I couldn't get it below 14.3 around town. Cheers
                                Toyota 150 DVD Silver Pearl, original towbar, Yokohama Geolandar ATS

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