40k service. Injector seals or not

[SWR Banned Find all posts View Profile Close SWR]

I am Soooooooo on the same page as "AJ120" and Allll the way with this WTF is with the "EVERY" 5k oil change all about?.... LMAO!

I am up to 183,000km and have "Nevvvver" changed my oil before 10k intervals!... Does that mean i am an absolute idiot despite the multi billion company (TOYOTA) also recommends every 10k.... Unless extreme environments.

EG: Abused/Thrashed "n" bashed mining rigs!

You guys must have more money than brains!.... Seriously!...

Stick to your manual service intervals and you will have shizer loads of money to play with else where! (Especially if you don't pay Toyota or local workshops!)..... Especially workshops who need/rely on your business!..

If your injector seating washers (Heat shield washer) was to fail then changing your oil every 5k to stop the pick-up pipe from blocking wont do a dam thing to stop it from blocking apart from changing the very culprit that causes it to block in the first place!.... Eeer... that being the seating washer!.... Eeeer... Yeh! ... Eeer thats it!! ...Yeh!!

Change your oil every 10k (Toyota specified oil!.. Its in your service manual) and have a sticky beek at the oil pick-up pipe when you drop your oil! .... Just in case you was to miss the early warning signs and then enjoy the money you are saving instead of sponsoring the local dealer/workshop/ car accessory get rich fund!

Click link below (Applies to 1KD-D4D 120 & 150 but not 1KZ).

diesel rattle in D4D Prado

Cheers

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Watching this thread as well people.. Play nice...

It seems some are keen to self destruct themselves at the moment.. All please take the time to think about what you are posting, before posting comments that may get you in warm water.

[SimonW Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close SimonW]

With information comes misinformation, and with a group comes group-think.

I dip my lid to anyone who is brave enough to offer a counter view on anything; especially one based on critical thinking, logic and science.

Discussions like those above are healthy and should be encouraged … if done nicely as Piggy says.

[BlakMoth Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close BlakMoth]

Surprised he didn't shut this one down tbh. Was getting hot and heavy in here.

[Guest Close Guest]

Back on topic please people. We accept healthy debate here, but when it gets to a point of clashing ego's it will be pulled up.

[Pradodiesel Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pradodiesel]

Toyota says 10,000km or 6 Months which ever comes first.

In other words change it more frequent as the 10,000km intervals are designed for fleet companies looking for cheaper running costs.
On paper the 10,000km looks good but every six months means most will change out prior to the 10k.

[barajak Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close barajak]

Toyota do recommend 5,000 oil changes for harsh conditions so definitely not 10,000 fits all then. Half my day to day running in winter is below operating temp and most longer trips involve towing. Cruising the speed limits on the highways with a warm engine all the time and your oil will easily go 10,000 and not be black. I have seen oil on many occasions 10,000 km old and honey colored. Mine is crap after 5,000 so I change it. If your oil is black after 5,000 km I think you should consider it has been operating under less than ideal conditions (or harsh) and change the oil. It does not hurt to look at the pickup screen, it is easy to do so why not.
My Prado is June 2010 and I have not been able to find out if it has the revised seats in it. A Toyota insider told me that post June 2010, the 150's are fine and some built before that will have no issues either!!! Something in the engine number holds the key not the build date.

[MelbournePark Member Find all posts View Profile Close MelbournePark]

I would suggest at 40k the valve clearances are fine.
The seals likely ok too.
Why open up & risk debris getting to your fuel system & injectors with such a young vehicle?

Stick with oil changes every 5k & all the other CRD specific, non TOYOTA dealer service recommendations & checks.
Eg; check oil pick up screen -( obviously at the oil change as stated in previous line)
& feedback values every 10k....

Firstly, I am not a mechanic or auto engineer.

I am about to buy a diesel Prado.

I investigated Mazda CX-5 diesel issues when there were issues with their new tech high revving diesel motor. In the end, I bought a Lexus RX-350 for my wife instead. I decided that the petrol was a safer bet for the CX-5 at that time, namely the 2.5 litre newly available motor. So I learn't more about diesel engine oils in my investigations.

A top oil (ie synthetic) will last 20,000km, no worries.

However ... the issue with diesels, is not the oil's ability to last. Rather, its how well it lubricates when it becomes diluted with distillate. Distillate is a light oil itself, and its gets into the lubrication system (petrol evaporates away). This process dilutes the lubrication / engine oil. Hence diesel engine oil is designed to still lubricate while being diluted with distillate.

I think the frequency of oil changes would be dependent on the level of dilution of the engine oil.

Tests for this are done, which typically reveal the dilution level and metal particles (engine wear). I suspect most engine oil for diesels are designed to tolerate 5% distillate fuel dilution of the engine oil.

I've read too, that some engines stabilize in time and their lubrication oil gets less diluted. I've also read that diesel engines bed in better if well used. Its possible that with your hard use, your engine is well bedded in (rings and I guess valve seating) and that your fuel / oil dilution is quite low.

I don't know how easy it is to test ones oil or the cost, but if you change your oil every 5k, I think it might be a better investment to have the oil tested, because if you are not suffering severe dilution, then you may be pouring your money and the valuable and perhaps scarce material down the drain (although yours may well recycle beautifully).

[tdprado Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close tdprado]

That's a well thought out and described response MelbournePark.

It may well possibly be better to have our oil tested once in a while for contaminants, to see what really is going on inside our engines.

There really are many options available, with all having their merits.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

your oil will easily go 10,000 and not be black. I have seen oil on many occasions 10,000 km old and honey colored. Mine is crap after 5,000 so I change it. If your oil is black after 5,000 km I think you should consider it has been operating under less than ideal conditions (or harsh) and change the oil.

Mate, I had oil change on Wednesday. The dipstick and oil was black by that same afternoon. Always is.

[barajak Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close barajak]

Mate, I had oil change on Wednesday. The dipstick and oil was black by that same afternoon. Always is.

Hi Dave, mine is black in no time at all as well but if it is blowing bubbles, it is not clogging the pickup screen. I am keen to check the screen between services and I will not put black oil back in and a few litres of oil is not going to break me.

[gxl_d4d Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close gxl_d4d]

Black oil on the same day as a change? Must have quite a bit of blow by or sludge inside. Might be worth a flush. My oil darkens gradually over the 5000km interval, always has. Even at 5000km you can still see the silver on the dipstick through the darkened oil. The oil dosn't get so bad that when hot you can't see the metal.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Yours is the only one then. Every diesel I have owned, and that is quite a few, has black oil 12 milli seconds after a change. It is normal.

[MelbournePark Member Find all posts View Profile Close MelbournePark]

The Toyota boss of their service shop told me yesterday, that for city work they recommend 5K changes is well worthwhile and that many do that.

Perhaps even more important for the smaller Golfs etc who zip around in short distances and some don't get a good run.

Most current Euro and Japanese car diesels have a particulate filter, that gathers evil particulates from the exhaust. Such filters cost thousands to replace. The way the engines clean them is by having an extra small injector that blows some distillate into the hot filter housing during a cleaning cycle. They fuel then cleans burning the particulate filter. Which is why such vehicles need hot particulate filters, and typically require a 45 minute run at a minimum of 80KMH, once a fortnight I think is recommended.

Mercedes blue tech system, uses an injection of urea to clean their filter. They don't need the long run I believe. They just need topping up of urea. No doubt Mercedes own special brand of urea costs a lot (you can't use your own you know although for blokes this process might be easier but perhaps includes some physical risk ...).

With Toyota D4D engines, they are "trucks" and hence do not have to comply with particulate rulings. Perhaps why too why California sensitive Lexus will not sell a diesel ... although perhaps in Europe they do.

On another issue, those that put in cleaners into their fuel, I've been told that they can remove plating / coating ... I should find a thread on fuel additives I guess ...

[Kowolski Member Find all posts View Profile Close Kowolski]

In answer to the original question. You probably don't need to do injector seals at 40k, however better Toyota dealers replace them regardless. E.g. Sci Fleet In Brisbane always do injector seals at 40k and include it in the fixed price service fee, no extra charge.