I bought an EGR blanking plate of ebay, $7 and drilled a 7mm hole in it.
Took 20 minutes to remove a few bits and slot in the EGR blanking plate - no gasket needed.
Engine runs as per normal, no issues, no error codes.
We've got a 6 month old 2014 D4D GXL that has done about 10,000kms - how dirty is the EGR likely to be?
I've got a blanking plate (the $10 ebay special from above with a hole in it) - are there any clear instructions on where it goes and what other parts I need? Do I need to get a new gasket for it? Does it really take 20mins to install (as per morngoose's post above)?
How my night looked at the start of a night that ended at 01:30 as part of the service/EGR clean/EGR restriction plate installation/cans in the shed festivities!:
The actual cleaning of the EGR was OK, it had only been done 12,000klm ago. My car has 130,000klm on it now. I'd really like to remove the whole intake, but that will be a job for when the injectors will need doing again.
There are probably some tricks that would make removal easier along the way, but I chose the hard way every time I think! But I do have a few 'custom' ring spanners now that I had to bend to reach some sneaky nuts and bolts. Many skinned knuckles, but that's what the cans were for, pain relief!
The blank/restriction plate goes in at the front of the head, just under the thermostat housing before the EGR cooler thingo. I just popped it in after the gasket but closer to the cooler and will cross my fingers that it doesn't leak. It was a prick of a job, i have no idea how you could get the plate in without removing the throttle body, intake and EGR stuff. I could only just get it up in there after moving the cooler quite a lot by removing many things.
20 minutes would be a fair time, if you knew exactly how to tackle it. I started it at about midnight and being that I had been up for 22 hours already, I'd already done the rest of the intake and after the many cans, it took me closer to an hour. Most of that time was trying to disfigure my skeletal system into abstract shapes to complete the task.
So all up, about 6 hours of play in the shed, including the service and it's back together and started first pop. Not driven it yet because cans and I am still in intensive care from the gymnastics required. Plus I still have to lube tailshaft and rotate the wheels, not sure the neighbors would've appreciated the rattle gun at 01:30 this morning.....
I'm told they do, don't & sometimes do & sometimes don't light up like a Christmas tree.
I like allowing a small amount through, so it can still do what is was designed to do.
Soot is reduced greatly.
Hey mate, I read somewhere you had a 'control' car or something that you were monitoring. Have you noticed a decrease of buildup in that case? I will check mine in 10,000klm and report back too.
Cheers Brad
[B]2010 GX ,D4D, 6 Speed Manual.[/B] 17x7.5'' +15 FJ Cruiser alloys, 265/70/17 Cooper ST MAXX, ARB bar, Tigerz11 winch, 2'' Dobbinsons lift, Superior front swaybar spacers, extended rear swaybar links, dual batteries, 65L Waeco, custom rear storage, cargo barrier, Fuel Manager pre-filter, breathers, UHF, Narva driving lights.
How my night looked at the start of a night that ended at 01:30 as part of the service/EGR clean/EGR restriction plate installation/cans in the shed festivities!:
The actual cleaning of the EGR was OK, it had only been done 12,000klm ago. My car has 130,000klm on it now. I'd really like to remove the whole intake, but that will be a job for when the injectors will need doing again.
There are probably some tricks that would make removal easier along the way, but I chose the hard way every time I think! But I do have a few 'custom' ring spanners now that I had to bend to reach some sneaky nuts and bolts. Many skinned knuckles, but that's what the cans were for, pain relief!
The blank/restriction plate goes in at the front of the head, just under the thermostat housing before the EGR cooler thingo. I just popped it in after the gasket but closer to the cooler and will cross my fingers that it doesn't leak. It was a prick of a job, i have no idea how you could get the plate in without removing the throttle body, intake and EGR stuff. I could only just get it up in there after moving the cooler quite a lot by removing many things.
20 minutes would be a fair time, if you knew exactly how to tackle it. I started it at about midnight and being that I had been up for 22 hours already, I'd already done the rest of the intake and after the many cans, it took me closer to an hour. Most of that time was trying to disfigure my skeletal system into abstract shapes to complete the task.
So all up, about 6 hours of play in the shed, including the service and it's back together and started first pop. Not driven it yet because cans and I am still in intensive care from the gymnastics required. Plus I still have to lube tailshaft and rotate the wheels, not sure the neighbors would've appreciated the rattle gun at 01:30 this morning.....
Will get a catch can this week too.
Cheers Brad
I'd guess thats 12k without a catch can.
How did the intake look the first time you cleaned it? :shock:
I'd guess thats 12k without a catch can.
How did the intake look the first time you cleaned it? :shock:
I'm unsure, I didn't clean it out when the injectors were replaced, the mechanic did.
Have had it out for a good drive today. It sounds slightly different and pulls like a school boy! So much smoother. Not sure if it is better from the loss of about 4mm of crap blocking the intake or the reduced exhaust gas going back into the intake, or probably both. It's also running about 2 - 4 deg cooler than before, according to the scangauge II.
Will report back at the end of the week regarding economy, I go back to work tomorrow night and I use the trek to work as my control drive. Generally the drive is exactly the same every day, in fact, the car probably does the driving for me most days/nights....
Cheers Brad.
[B]2010 GX ,D4D, 6 Speed Manual.[/B] 17x7.5'' +15 FJ Cruiser alloys, 265/70/17 Cooper ST MAXX, ARB bar, Tigerz11 winch, 2'' Dobbinsons lift, Superior front swaybar spacers, extended rear swaybar links, dual batteries, 65L Waeco, custom rear storage, cargo barrier, Fuel Manager pre-filter, breathers, UHF, Narva driving lights.
Some info, tips , advise - THIS egr shoit IS A BIG PROBLEM
If you can slip in a plate successfully in 20 minutes you are pretty good.
The soot is killing your engine. Deposits from the egr valve to the injectors.
Its wearing valve clearances down, I have found a clear pattern no.4 inlet is always worst.
It's contaminating your oil.
It's making your vehicle inefficient.
Been doing more r&d, there is around 100-300+ degrees, being fed through the egr cooler (using 85 degree coolant) to try & cool it)
This is at idle, cruise control 80 & 90k & light acceleration etc.
Brad good work, that is how you do the job properly! It was worse when I changed your Injectors, but limited to egr valve & elbow.
It's not worth removing the manifold unless its required, if the manifold is chock -a-block.
Generally it's very thin by the end of your finger tips. Some are completely rooted.
Your was pretty good, many are much worse.
That set of injectors may last longer, lets see. As the vehicles get higher Klm's the soot seems to get worse.
Clean it, start fresh! It's a 4 hour job, simple as that. Gymnastics yeah thats it.
It's going better because its running on more cold air not 150 degree mixed in via a 26mm hole
Watch for how clean your oil stays.
Watch & report your fuel economy please.
I hear anything from nothing to 3lt per 100k
Yesterday I was told a 150 was getting 11.8, now 10.4.
Brad, R u using bp? Or? & which oil please?
Yes people you just leave the original gasket against the head, then put the plate in place.
It won't leak & won't matter if it did. Unless you bust the studs off or eave them loose
The throttle butterfly is there for 2 reasons!
1. To create vacuum so the engine will suck egr.
2. Smooth shut down.
My theory if we were to open or drill the butterfly it will help reduce the suck & help the restrictor plate work even better. Have not had time to r&d it yet.
Once you put a restrictor with 7mm hole your MAF readings should be about 12.
There is more than 1 being monitored & reductions are good.
Please report.
We've got a 6 month old 2014 D4D GXL that has done about 10,000kms - how dirty is the EGR likely to be?
I've got a blanking plate (the $10 ebay special from above with a hole in it) - are there any clear instructions on where it goes and what other parts I need? Do I need to get a new gasket for it? Does it really take 20mins to install (as per morngoose's post above)?
####, I've just changed over to BP Ulitmate diesel, was using normal BP before and have forever, from the same servo, every time. Was using additive in the normal diesel but probably won't now.
I was using this oil until recently:
But I changed to this for the last 2 oil changes because it has been about $78 at Supercheap:
Not real happy with the HPR 5, it's coming out very black, I reckon the Enviro+ was better. The dirty oil could be from the change to BP Ultimate. I'm doing the changes every 5,000klm and using the Ryco Z418HE filter that has a 5,000klm service interval.
Cheers Brad
[B]2010 GX ,D4D, 6 Speed Manual.[/B] 17x7.5'' +15 FJ Cruiser alloys, 265/70/17 Cooper ST MAXX, ARB bar, Tigerz11 winch, 2'' Dobbinsons lift, Superior front swaybar spacers, extended rear swaybar links, dual batteries, 65L Waeco, custom rear storage, cargo barrier, Fuel Manager pre-filter, breathers, UHF, Narva driving lights.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure it was coming out dirty because I changed to Ultimate. The oil pickup was silver and shiny with no junk on it, from what I could see through the plug hole with my eyes covered in dripping oil....
Might change to 10W-40 permanently next oil change.
I really want to completely block off this damn EGR system....
Cheers Brad
[B]2010 GX ,D4D, 6 Speed Manual.[/B] 17x7.5'' +15 FJ Cruiser alloys, 265/70/17 Cooper ST MAXX, ARB bar, Tigerz11 winch, 2'' Dobbinsons lift, Superior front swaybar spacers, extended rear swaybar links, dual batteries, 65L Waeco, custom rear storage, cargo barrier, Fuel Manager pre-filter, breathers, UHF, Narva driving lights.
####, do you think you could point me in the direction of a step by step 'How To' (directed towards the layman with no mechanical knowledge) for cleaning the EGR and installing the blank plate?
Once you remove the elbow how do you clean the end that is attached to the motor? Spray with degreaser or another product and wipe away with a rag or is there a better method? What happens to the soot if it is accidentally forced into the engine during cleaning and is it detrimental?
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