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  • ARB bar fitting questions

    So I had an ARB bullbar fitted a couple of months ago. Not only did they get the colour wrong (apparently the 040 white tints have changed in the lastest model), but they made a bit of a mess of the inner guards. One is cut slightly short and they haven't been fastened into the bar wing fender sections well and flap around.

    It also looks to me like there is a plastic guard missing per the photo. For those that have ARB bars on their 150 is this the same as yours? This is the passenger side whereas the other side doesn't have the gap...Click image for larger version

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    Secondly, this photo shows where they have cut the other side short. Am I being too picky if I ask them to fix it? Click image for larger version

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    Cheers
    2016 Toyota Prado GXL auto. ARB deluxe bar, Rock Armor side steps, 9in Penetrator LED spotties (30,000LM), Uniden 8060 UHF, Bilstein/Dobinson 2in lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's, Safari snorkel, Dual battery system, ARB onboard compressor, Custom rear false floor, Kaon bash plates, Ext. diff/gearbox breathers, Provent 200, Wynnum tow bar, Roadsafe tow points, Phillips crystalvision bulbs, tint, Rhino rack platform.

  • #2
    I had my bar fitted on Wednesday, and when I got home I had a good look at it and thought the same about the passenger side, however mine is the same as yours. As for the drivers side I wouldn't be happy with the way they have cut the splash guard. You pay a premium price for Arb gear and for their installers to fit it and in return you expect it to be finished accordingly. I would take it back and have them fix it with a new splash guard.

    Comment


    • #3
      I feel your pain mate. When ARB fitted my bullbar they didn't reinstall the grill properly as they forgot the two screws that secure the top edge to the cross member in front of the radiator and I noticed that they'd actually cracked the grill also.



      My inner guards were cut to a suitable length and tek screwed to the wings, not the neatest trimming effort but at least they were long enough!





      Here's two pics of the underside of my wheel arches to see how it compares with yours.





      Another area to check is where they have cut the front guard under the headlights. On both sides on mine they hadn't allowed for the park light assemblies in the bar and the bottom edge of the guard was rubbing on the back of the light assembly, it had actually worn through some of the assembly on one side.









      I also put two extra tek screws in the rear edge of the centre 'bash plate' as it had a slight rattle in it.



      It is just shoddy workmanship, plain and simple. It's the 'don't give a $hit' attitude that seems so pervasive in many of today's so called 'tradesman'. It does my head in. I also had ARB fit a Rhino Rack Pioneer platform, possibly one of the simplest jobs they could do. Yet they cocked that one up too when they mounted the front crossbar too far forward and they were actually clamping on the cosmetic plastic shroud that covers the roof bar mounts. When I went to move the bar back I discovered they'd cross threaded the bolt inside the clamps!

      Hope the pics help.

      Cheers,

      H.
      [B]2010 GXL Prado D4D Auto[/B] - ARB Deluxe winch bar, Roadsafe recovery points, Rhinorack Pioneer platform, AMTS fuel filter/compressor combo bracket with FM100 filter and ARB compressor, Maxtrax, TIN175 transmission oil cooler bracket and tranny cooler. I'm sure I'll find something else....

      Comment


      • #4
        [QUOTE=Hollywood;544008]I feel your pain mate. When ARB fitted my bullbar they didn't reinstall the grill properly as they forgot the two screws that secure the top edge to the cross member in front of the radiator and I noticed that they'd actually cracked the grill also.


        Yep my screws were also missing. Noticed this when I ran the cable for the dual battery.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Hollywood View Post
          I also put two extra tek screws in the rear edge of the centre 'bash plate' as it had a slight rattle in it.
          Do yourself a favour and ditch the lousy OEM plate when you have the quids. My upper plate has 5 bolts that go into the lower under radiator chassis cross piece so looks like you've been ripped off on a few bolts there.
          Dave
          Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
          Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

          Comment


          • #6
            I would be taking it further, that is crap workmanship.

            Hergy

            Comment


            • #7
              Also check all the bolts on your bar are tightened. When the salesman was showing me the good work after i had paid & got me to pop the bonnet , I noticed that one of the bolts was not even done up fingertight. They promptly sent it back to the workshop. I dont trust their fitters. Ive learnt with other issues with the same mob If I cant do it myself I would get a mechanic to do it.

              Sent from my SM-J110F using Tapatalk
              2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
              Rig build here
              [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]

              Comment


              • #8
                Had similar concerns with fitting of my TJM Bar.

                My passengers side front guard was left flapping in the breeze, and after pointing it out they just jammed a couple of tek screws in to the wing bash plate. I'm hoping that it all still flex's ok when the chassis/bar & body move relative to each other. I have also since noticed there's a bit of creaking going on from the drivers side when you hit bumps (jumping on the bull bar reproduces it) but have yet to track down the cause.
                http://s29.postimg.org/nef9yt0o7/Passenger_Guard.jpg

                They also did a dodgy job on the rubber lining over the exposed cut bumper (minor, but seriously?) and there was swarf left in the engine bay from the snorkel install. Love the design and look of the gear but the installation workmanship leaves a lot to be desired.
                http://s29.postimg.org/tkls2o0x3/Bar.jpg

                Comment


                • #9
                  I had a really bad buzzing vibration from the drivers side that I thought was the guard liner on the bull bar wing. It turned out the be the pipe for the snorkel vibrating where it passes through the inner guard. I tightened up the rubber mounts for the air box and put some thin rubber around the snorkel pipe which fixed it.

                  A word of warning, if you remove the airbox and lid (and unplug the MAF) don't run the engine. Throws a few codes that need to be cleared. Don't ask me how I know...

                  Cheers, Nova

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Nova View Post
                    I had a really bad buzzing vibration from the drivers side that I thought was the guard liner on the bull bar wing. It turned out the be the pipe for the snorkel vibrating where it passes through the inner guard. I tightened up the rubber mounts for the air box and put some thin rubber around the snorkel pipe which fixed it.

                    A word of warning, if you remove the airbox and lid (and unplug the MAF) don't run the engine. Throws a few codes that need to be cleared. Don't ask me how I know...

                    Cheers, Nova

                    Yep I have the same noise. Tightened the mounts but its still there. Been meaning to take it back to arb.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It's not one of the wings or the centre plate that's vibrating is it. I had a similar 'rattle' that I'm pretty sure was the centre plate. A couple of tek screws in my centre plate made a difference.
                      [B]2010 GXL Prado D4D Auto[/B] - ARB Deluxe winch bar, Roadsafe recovery points, Rhinorack Pioneer platform, AMTS fuel filter/compressor combo bracket with FM100 filter and ARB compressor, Maxtrax, TIN175 transmission oil cooler bracket and tranny cooler. I'm sure I'll find something else....

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Toyota fixed all the rattles on our fleet Prados fitted with Ironman bars up in the Goldfields and Kimberley: tech screws.
                        Dave
                        Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                        Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JohnC80 View Post
                          Yep I have the same noise. Tightened the mounts but its still there. Been meaning to take it back to arb.
                          The airbox mounts are rubber with a crush tube through them so just tightening the bolts still leaves the airbox with a fair amount of freeplay. I used some black silicone sealant inside and outside of the two mounts under the box to remove the free movement but still allow a bit of flex. Seems to have worked a treat so far. Time will tell how it holds up.

                          Cheers, Nova

                          Comment

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