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I have just completed my DIY suspension install for our Prado 150. As I have found the information and stories on PradoPoint very helpful I though that I would write about my experience. It might help someone also considering doing his or her own suspension. Sorry, I neglected to take pictures.
The Rear process
Loosened the wheel nuts, jacked the car up and placed heavy-duty jack stands under the chassis just in front of the lower suspension arm mounting point. Removed wheels. Placed more jack stands at each end off the diff (to limit diff downwards travel) and a trolley jack under the middle of the diff, just taking the diff weight. Removed the rear shockers (nut at the top, bolt at the bottom).
Carefully started lowering the diff. Noticed that the wiring to the ABS on the driver’s side of the diff would soon be stretched. Undid the bolt attaching this wiring to the body, this allowed a lot a free play on the wiring and it was no longer an issue.
Continued carefully lowering the diff, it was clear that the flexible brake lines would be stretched. The two flexible brake lines come down from the body slightly on the passenger side of the diff centre. Undid the brake hose mounting bracket to the diff and the nearby bolts holding the fixed brake line to the diff, this allow quite a bit more movement. I didn’t want to disconnect the brake lines as this involves a trip to Toyota to clear the ensuing fault codes.
WARNING I read several other stories of people changing their rear springs, leaving the wheels on and just pushing down on each wheel in turn to get the spring out. I consider that this approach has a very high chance of stressing the flexible brake lines, be very careful that you don’t put any strain on these, mine had quite limited slack.
I started on the passenger side spring, as due to the break hoses it was clear that this side would be harder. If it was too hard I had less to put back together to take it to a professional. It was clear that I couldn’t get the diff down low enough the get the springs out (flexible brake hoses), I had the spring loose but couldn’t get it out. Fitted a spring compressor to the spring and compressed it a bit, this was very fiddly. Removed the spring.
I was also fitting airbags to the rear so, following the instructions, I cut down the rubber bump stop that sits inside the spring and enlarged to top hole for the airline hose. I connected a length airline to airbag an threaded it through what was left of the bump stop. I fitted a spring compressor to the spring (my new springs were very long 435mm end to end) and then negotiated the whole lot back into the car.
I then turned my attention to the driver’s side. I reasoned that I should be able to get this side a lot lower as the flexible brake lines would not be an issue. To let the drivers side of the diff drop a lot lower (axel stand placed under the passenger side) I removed the sway bar link and took out the bolt that secures the bracket to the handbrake cable. With this done I was able to easily lift the spring out. It was much faster than using a spring compressor, and it turned out that by using a block off wood to keep the diff pushed down I was able to get the longer replacement spring back in without using a spring compressor.
What would I do differently?
I would undo the sway bar straight away; this lets the diff come down a lot lower. The most important change is I would start on the driver’s side first. This side is quite easy. I would remove the spring from the driver’s side and leave it out. Then go and work on the passenger side. With no spring on the driver’s side it should be possible to jack the drivers side off the diff right up and support it with a jack stand. This should allow the passenger side to be carefully lowered (use trolley jack and a jack stand) without overextending the brake hose. I am fairly sure the passenger side would then come down low enough to allow the springs to be replaced without using a spring compressor. After the passenger side is complete then finish the driver’s side.
see next post...
The Rear process
Loosened the wheel nuts, jacked the car up and placed heavy-duty jack stands under the chassis just in front of the lower suspension arm mounting point. Removed wheels. Placed more jack stands at each end off the diff (to limit diff downwards travel) and a trolley jack under the middle of the diff, just taking the diff weight. Removed the rear shockers (nut at the top, bolt at the bottom).
Carefully started lowering the diff. Noticed that the wiring to the ABS on the driver’s side of the diff would soon be stretched. Undid the bolt attaching this wiring to the body, this allowed a lot a free play on the wiring and it was no longer an issue.
Continued carefully lowering the diff, it was clear that the flexible brake lines would be stretched. The two flexible brake lines come down from the body slightly on the passenger side of the diff centre. Undid the brake hose mounting bracket to the diff and the nearby bolts holding the fixed brake line to the diff, this allow quite a bit more movement. I didn’t want to disconnect the brake lines as this involves a trip to Toyota to clear the ensuing fault codes.
WARNING I read several other stories of people changing their rear springs, leaving the wheels on and just pushing down on each wheel in turn to get the spring out. I consider that this approach has a very high chance of stressing the flexible brake lines, be very careful that you don’t put any strain on these, mine had quite limited slack.
I started on the passenger side spring, as due to the break hoses it was clear that this side would be harder. If it was too hard I had less to put back together to take it to a professional. It was clear that I couldn’t get the diff down low enough the get the springs out (flexible brake hoses), I had the spring loose but couldn’t get it out. Fitted a spring compressor to the spring and compressed it a bit, this was very fiddly. Removed the spring.
I was also fitting airbags to the rear so, following the instructions, I cut down the rubber bump stop that sits inside the spring and enlarged to top hole for the airline hose. I connected a length airline to airbag an threaded it through what was left of the bump stop. I fitted a spring compressor to the spring (my new springs were very long 435mm end to end) and then negotiated the whole lot back into the car.
I then turned my attention to the driver’s side. I reasoned that I should be able to get this side a lot lower as the flexible brake lines would not be an issue. To let the drivers side of the diff drop a lot lower (axel stand placed under the passenger side) I removed the sway bar link and took out the bolt that secures the bracket to the handbrake cable. With this done I was able to easily lift the spring out. It was much faster than using a spring compressor, and it turned out that by using a block off wood to keep the diff pushed down I was able to get the longer replacement spring back in without using a spring compressor.
What would I do differently?
I would undo the sway bar straight away; this lets the diff come down a lot lower. The most important change is I would start on the driver’s side first. This side is quite easy. I would remove the spring from the driver’s side and leave it out. Then go and work on the passenger side. With no spring on the driver’s side it should be possible to jack the drivers side off the diff right up and support it with a jack stand. This should allow the passenger side to be carefully lowered (use trolley jack and a jack stand) without overextending the brake hose. I am fairly sure the passenger side would then come down low enough to allow the springs to be replaced without using a spring compressor. After the passenger side is complete then finish the driver’s side.
see next post...
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