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    Whitey
    Shockie Maker of the Month Award

  • Whitey
    replied
    Originally posted by maulbeagle View Post
    Thanks for the help and encouragement. As you can see, Zordo agreed exactly with the specs you provided first up.
    Regarding tightening the bolts only after the vehicle is at ride height and has been rolled back and forwards a few times, is this only necessary for the fronts ?
    I've just had a read through AMTS instructions on doing the fronts without spring compressors, and Zordo's instructions for doing the rears, and I can't see anything like that for the rears ?

    OR, is that accomplished by this section in Zordo's instructions:
    "Jack up the rear diff until the vehicle is supported by the jack & not the jack stands."
    "Check coil is seated in the chassis & Tighten all the trailing arms/ shocks."

    Thanks again.
    Hey,

    Tighten all bushes front and rear at ride height. You should also undo and re-torque all your control arm/trailing arm bushes so they flex equally in both directions at your new lifted ride height. Your bushes will last longer that way!

    If you don't already have jack stands, try these;

    https://www.tradetools.com/product-r...ands-jack-pair

    If you're going to work on your Prado, they are a very good height. I use them with 70mm hardwood planks underneath, and then I don't need to use the ratchet mechanism...safest way to work under your big heavy 4wd!

    When you get your wheel alignment after your new suspension is in, make sure you ask for as much caster as possible, handling will be better on the highway and with towing!

    Best

    Mark

    Leave a comment:

  • maulbeagle
    Senior Member

  • maulbeagle
    replied
    Thanks for the help and encouragement. As you can see, Zordo agreed exactly with the specs you provided first up.
    Regarding tightening the bolts only after the vehicle is at ride height and has been rolled back and forwards a few times, is this only necessary for the fronts ?
    I've just had a read through AMTS instructions on doing the fronts without spring compressors, and Zordo's instructions for doing the rears, and I can't see anything like that for the rears ?

    OR, is that accomplished by this section in Zordo's instructions:
    "Jack up the rear diff until the vehicle is supported by the jack & not the jack stands."
    "Check coil is seated in the chassis & Tighten all the trailing arms/ shocks."

    Thanks again.

    Leave a comment:

  • Whitey
    Shockie Maker of the Month Award

  • Whitey
    replied
    Originally posted by maulbeagle View Post
    OK I've ordered gear from Zordo today, now the wait begins. Will have a go at installing it myself.
    Ordered: 24-173032-1/C59-352 for fronts, 24-217897/C59-327 for rear.
    Great stuff, good on you for having a go at fitting it yourself!

    Best

    Mark

    Leave a comment:

  • maulbeagle
    Senior Member

  • maulbeagle
    replied
    OK I've ordered gear from Zordo today, now the wait begins. Will have a go at installing it myself.
    Ordered: 24-173032-1/C59-352 for fronts, 24-217897/C59-327 for rear.

    Leave a comment:

  • never ready
    Lurker

  • never ready
    replied
    Give Arnie at Autoride Suspensions at call on 9344 1995. Been installing Bilsteins, Eibach and Kings springs for over 25 years. Found him to be very personable and helpful. He is located in Balcatta, however, but his workshop (behind his home) is immaculate and clean. Cost me approx. $2,300 to have a 2" lift + heavy duty springs and Polyair bags installed on my 150 Prado GX due to weight of dual wheel carrier, rear drawer system (home built) and roof top tent.

    Also, check with your insurance company as most of them will not cover your 4by if installing greater than 2" lift.

    Leave a comment:

  • maulbeagle
    Senior Member

  • maulbeagle
    replied
    Thanks Zordo, I'll give you a call to discuss tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:

  • ZORDO
    Junior Member

  • ZORDO
    replied
    Originally posted by maulbeagle View Post
    Thanks Zordo. How about the rear springs, what do you recommend there ?
    Hi mate.
    Just reread your first post.
    Go with C59-352 & C59-327 coils & depending on the towball weight you may need airbags.
    Be aware the 24-173032-1 only has one useable groove.
    When I sell these shocks I supply them with 3 extra grooves.

    Prado suspensions is pretty easy to install yourself. There is thread in the 120 section & I offer day or night phone support for my customers.
    Cheers

    Leave a comment:

  • maulbeagle
    Senior Member

  • maulbeagle
    replied
    Thanks Zordo. How about the rear springs, what do you recommend there ?

    Leave a comment:

  • ZORDO
    Junior Member

  • ZORDO
    replied
    Hi mate.
    Yes go with the 24-173032-1 & the 302 with the V6
    24-217897 for the rear shock & make sure you get stone guards
    Cheers

    Leave a comment:

  • Whitey
    Shockie Maker of the Month Award

  • Whitey
    replied
    Hey,

    Nothing wrong, C59-302 is a 120 coil, 586lb/in, 395mm free height. Some will run 120 spec coils in the 150 IFS, however, it has been known to trigger the VSC in unusual circumstances. I would stick to a 350 or a 352. Give John at Zordos Suspension a call in Brisbane, he has fitted a ton of 150's with Dobinsons coils, and he is a Bilstein distributor.

    The suspension database has all the details anyone needs;

    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...nsion-Database

    The 327 is by far the most popular rear coil fitted to both 120 and 150 Prados. Only a minor percentage fit 325 or 329, and out of that minor percentage it will be mostly 329.

    The 325 is in my opinion far too soft for the Prado rear, and with a high rate 150 spec coil the front:rear suspension frequency ratio will never get better than 1:1, and you will get strong vehicle pitch off road when driving over undulations which are wheelbase apart in length. The struts/shocks will struggle to cycle out this kind of pitch. Been there in the pitch boat before, got a sticker for that as well!

    My advice for coils is 350/327 or 352/327, John will probably tell you the same thing, but he may have more accurate advice about the front coil depending on your weight.

    Best

    Mark

    Leave a comment:

  • maulbeagle
    Senior Member

  • maulbeagle
    replied
    I just got off the phone with Malaga Suspensions (got their details from Quadrant as the local importer).
    They reckon that C59-302 is definitely the way to go with a 150 V6, and C59-325 for the back as I'm not usually carrying a load.
    Plus Firestone airbags.
    Shocks they agree with 24-173032-1 and 24-217897.
    Is it possible there's some wrong info regarding the C59-302 being a 120 spring ?
    Please don't take offense, I know nothing about suspension and have to rely on what I'm told !

    Thanks again Mark for your help.

    Leave a comment:

  • Whitey
    Shockie Maker of the Month Award

  • Whitey
    replied
    Originally posted by maulbeagle View Post
    So is the general consensus that the best way to go is to import/purchase the suspension components then take them to a reputable mechanic for fitting, rather than do the whole lot through a suspension shop ?

    Mark, you mentioned 24-173032, did you mean 24-173032-1 ?
    According to the Bilstein catalogue, the 24-173032 is the STD (+20mm), the 24-173032-1 is the L/T (+50mm).
    Also, being a V6, should I get the C59-302 instead of C59-352 ?
    Hey,

    Yep, the -1 is the long travel version, that's the one you want if you plan on lifting!

    I would guess the 352 is prolly better for you considering the heavy front end you'll have, you might get away with a 350. The 302 is a 120 spec coil, much softer than the 350 or the 352 which are 150 spec. The 24-173032 strut is high rebound, matched to high rate 150 coils. You can run it with a softer coil, I know some who do this, it will give a more stiff feeling on road, but still gives awesome off road performance.

    Take a squiz at the suspension database here to see the difference between 120 and 150 coils;

    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...nsion-Database

    Also take a look here to see the kind of lifts reported for 150's;

    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...il-free-length

    Regarding fitting, I would say you can get good and bad experiences at mechanics or suspension shops. Depends on the experience and knowledge of the fitter/mechanic.

    Just make sure you insist on any bushes being done up at ride height with the new suspension bounced and at ride height with wheels on the ground. I have seen fitters do bushes up with cars on the hoist so many times I've lost count. Too much she'll be right attitude.

    Alternatively, consider DIY, it will familiarise you with the suspension, and it's always good to know how to swap in a strut if you are stuck in a remote location and a bad failure has occurred. It happens!

    See here for a DIY step by step guide. Some basic tools and you can do this yourself at home;

    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ade-for-Grande

    Don't be afraid to try it yourself, rip into it!

    Best

    Mark

    Leave a comment:

  • maulbeagle
    Senior Member

  • maulbeagle
    replied
    So is the general consensus that the best way to go is to import/purchase the suspension components then take them to a reputable mechanic for fitting, rather than do the whole lot through a suspension shop ?

    Mark, you mentioned 24-173032, did you mean 24-173032-1 ?
    According to the Bilstein catalogue, the 24-173032 is the STD (+20mm), the 24-173032-1 is the L/T (+50mm).
    Also, being a V6, should I get the C59-302 instead of C59-352 ?
    maulbeagle
    Senior Member
    Last edited by maulbeagle; 23-06-2016, 11:24 AM.

    Leave a comment:

  • Fred63
    Advanced Member

  • Fred63
    replied
    just put the Dobbinsons MRR on. with their springs
    very happy so far
    on and off road is great

    Leave a comment:

  • Greenie
    Junior Member

  • Greenie
    replied
    Originally posted by Black150 View Post
    OME BP-51. Has performed well in all situations.
    I second that

    Leave a comment:

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