changing front cv boot and also seal on front diff

[Wazza1978 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wazza1978]

Hi guys . I need to change the front left cv boot on my 95 series and also noticed the seal out of the front diff to the cv is leaking a little so may as well kill two birds with one stone. Havent had a very good look at the job yet. i am mechanical but have yet to do a cv yet so just want some advice on what needs to be done.

cheers

[croozza Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close croozza]

both easy jobs, just need to replace the inner shaft (the bit that goes into the diff) retaining clip when you pull the cv shaft out of the diff housing.

[Wazza1978 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wazza1978]

thanks crooza, and do you just yank it out the cv ? , Oh i see u have a tigers11 winch how do they go ?

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

You can't just yank it out as the inner is held together by the boot.
You need to tap/lever persuade the inner cup out.

Seal will cost about $20
Genuine boot kit is expensive.
If its split it might be contaminated.
Repco sell the whole shaft with a good warranty 2 or 5 year 100k warranty no more than $220, cheaper if u are nice.

[croozza Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close croozza]

thanks crooza, and do you just yank it out the cv ? , Oh i see u have a tigers11 winch how do they go ?

No, you need to pry the inner shaft out of the diff housing, 50% of the time, the retaining clip will tear the seal, but as your is leaking, that is not a problem..
The winch is great, however I have never had to use it to recover myself or others, it has only been used for gardening work..lol... but murphys law will get me if I remove it/sell it

[Ken in Cairns Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ken in Cairns]

I just did the same job, CV required a fair amount off leverage to get it past the clip.
Seals were 50 bucks for both, genuine Toyota, they are Not the same size., or the same cost.
See here.
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_199...PNKQ_4301.html

LH is part number 90311-47011 cost about 22 bucks
RH is part number 90311-47010 cost about 30 bucks
I had the CV's rebuilt to premium quality for 140 bucks each, there are cheap shafts for 180 bucks new, but they are not as good quality. Check out getting them rebuild, is normally cheaper, and mine were done in 4 hrs.
If you have a suspension lift it chews the CV’s out a bit quicker, mine never made a sound, but were shagged, pulled them out as part of my big rebuild, report and photos coming soon.

Cheers
Ken

[Wazza1978 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wazza1978]

thanks Ken

[raydes Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close raydes]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-PR...item4ab40b9e6c



3 year warranty

[Ken in Cairns Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ken in Cairns]

You are welcome Wazza

Not a bad price Raydes, if they are premium quality shafts. However with the postage they are dearer than the ones I had done, and it would have taken a week to get them by the time the payment and postage process were completed. Mine were ready by the time I had watched the Hobbit and had lunch

I also like the fact I have local warrantee, and I am supporting a local Cairns business.

A few pointers if you have never done one mate.

You will need a 46 mm socket( check yours though) Wazza, and a rattle gun ( if you have one)to get the hub nut off mate, it is pretty tight, 200 + NM torque.
You will also have to drop the lower ball joint, and tie rod end, Much easier with a tie rod puller mate ( 25 bucks from Bearing shop, good quality Lisle one), my RH one was a right pain in the ass, which is why my CV’s got pulled, I melted a little of the boot with the Oxy, on the 2nd day of fighting it, turned out to be a good thing however.

I broke one cheap Stanley finger type puller, it was VERY stubborn, the better quality tie rod puller just fitted, but had a lot of pressure on it as well, needed that, heat, a jack under the hub making the spring work in my favor (truck on stands) and a BIG hammer( hit the side of the mounting on the steering knuckle), to get it to finally let go !!

LH side came straight off the taper, undid the nut, jack under the hub and pop

I used a little bit of non hardening Permatex on the outside of the seal. Lube up the seal before refitting the shaft.
I also used some never seize on the hub spines.

Drain the diff first, you will need a 10 mm and 12 mm Allen key , I found the drain plug Very tight, needed heat and a bit of a love tap with a Bundy hammer to get it out

Do the filling plug first as always mate, just to make sure you can get oil back in.
Front diff takes a little over a litre of oil, I used a pump that goes into a 4 liter oil pack, got a couple of them from Super Cheap, as I did front and rear diff ( not the same oil),transfer case, and I’ll be doing the Auto when I get back home. I find them easier than the small oil bottles with the hose on them, though the pump will also fit those as well, but for the cost of 2x1 liter bottles and 1x4 liter pack I went for the 4 liter pack, you will get two oil changes out of it, or the transfer case as well.

Sorry if you know all this, I’m on watch its 5am and I’m bored

Have fun and good luck

[Ken in Cairns Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ken in Cairns]

You are welcome Wazza

Not a bad price Raydes, if they are premium quality shafts. However with the postage they are dearer than the ones I had done, and it would have taken a week to get them by the time the payment and postage process were completed. Mine were ready by the time I had watched the Hobbit and had lunch

I also like the fact I have local warrantee, and I am supporting a local Cairns business.

A few pointers if you have never done one mate.

You will need a 46 mm socket( check yours though) Wazza, and a rattle gun ( if you have one)to get the hub nut off mate, it is pretty tight, 200 + NM torque.
You will also have to drop the lower ball joint, and tie rod end, Much easier with a tie rod puller mate ( 25 bucks from Bearing shop, good quality Lisle one), my RH one was a right pain in the ass, which is why my CV’s got pulled, I melted a little of the boot with the Oxy, on the 2nd day of fighting it, turned out to be a good thing however.

I broke one cheap Stanley finger type puller, it was VERY stubborn, the better quality tie rod puller just fitted, but had a lot of pressure on it as well, needed that, heat, a jack under the hub making the spring work in my favor (truck on stands) and a BIG hammer( hit the side of the mounting on the steering knuckle), to get it to finally let go !!

LH side came straight off the taper, undid the nut, jack under the hub and pop

I used a little bit of non hardening Permatex on the outside of the seal. Lube up the seal before refitting the shaft.
I also used some never seize on the hub spines.

Drain the diff first, you will need a 10 mm and 12 mm Allen key , I found the drain plug Very tight, needed heat and a bit of a love tap with a Bundy hammer to get it out

Do the filling plug first as always mate, just to make sure you can get oil back in.
Front diff takes a little over a litre of oil, I used a pump that goes into a 4 liter oil pack, got a couple of them from Super Cheap, as I did front and rear diff ( not the same oil),transfer case, and I’ll be doing the Auto when I get back home. I find them easier than the small oil bottles with the hose on them, though the pump will also fit those as well, but for the cost of 2x1 liter bottles and 1x4 liter pack I went for the 4 liter pack, you will get two oil changes out of it, or the transfer case as well.

Sorry if you know all this, I’m on watch its 5am and I’m bored

Have fun and good luck