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Leaking diff, all parked up

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  • #16
    Heres a picture of the way i tightened up the axle nut, i put a thicker screwdriver in here. Its a thick screwdriver so that it wouldnt bend between the vanes inside the rotor as you put the large torque on the nut. I had already put the dust cover for the nut back on in this photo.

    Click image for larger version

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    Overall this was a pretty easy job. With the correct sized tools and replacement parts there isnt anything that should require the call for back up
    Last edited by MikeyB; 17-10-2013, 04:10 AM.

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    • #17
      Ive left prado on the opposing tilt tonight to see if the other side leaks, there is a suspicious looking hue on the bottom of this right back wheels rotor dustcover.
      I better top up the diff to double check theres enough fluid to show up any leak.
      Click image for larger version

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      Il start a rear diff thread (if i cant find one) once i get started on that tomorrow or so.
      cheers

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      • #18
        http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forum...-on-rear-brake
        95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]
        [/SIZE]

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        • #19
          Thanks for that Fridayman.
          I found everything in that link to be the same on mine.
          As mentioned in that article, the seal is very tight.
          Click image for larger version

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          Ive found that putting the seal back in is really difficult, ive bent two already even using a big drift i made out of an old seal and grease gun housing..
          Click image for larger version

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          Its the tightest OD seal ive come across. Its not under pressure there so im not sure why its so tight, all it does is stop fluid draining into the ABS/bearing area when the vehicles on a tilt. I will get my next one genuine from toyota in case im getting provided the wrong seal from my other supplier but i dont think thats probable.

          Ive decided to adjust the handbrake while doing this too by adjusting the bellcrank lever and the adjusting spoke on both sides

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          • #20
            Well ive given her a couple of test drives and the good news is that there are no leaks now from underneath.
            That position of the front right diff seal in the housing seems adequate. Il repost if there is any premature failure.

            Next job in a month or so is the left cv boots as one is ripped. Ive taped it and zip tied it for the meantime. Im going to do the left hand seal when im there. Il write up on that if i cant find a post on here as its a different arrangement to the right seal.
            Good luck to anyone doing this job, its not that tricky so go for it

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            • #21
              I did the left inner cv boot today. I didn't do the seal as the supply shop is still closed for xmas/ny and I thought why replace something which isn't broken. I did see the seal there- all dirty and grimy but the lips were clean and not degraded.
              The seal on the driver side that this thread was about is going fine too, no leaks.

              I did today have trouble removing the tie rod end. I banged away and tried a few different techniques but it didn't budge. Ive had this problem on a few cars.
              What eventuated is that I found I could remove the wheel hub with the tie rod end still connected- so anyone doing these seals/bearings does not need to remove the tie rod arm.
              Considering someone could be doing this out in the bush or like me and not want to damage the tie rod arm and thus need to replace it I thought it would be good if the sticky thread on CV boots could be changed to state that too... im a newbie so don't want to just jump in and do it myself.
              The sticky thread below, which was very helpful, is the one that im referring too

              http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...5-Series-Prado

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              • #22
                I suppose its more accurate to say I could easily slip the cv shaft out through the wheel hub with the tie rod arm still attached

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by MikeyB View Post
                  I did today have trouble removing the tie rod end. I banged away and tried a few different techniques but it didn't budge. Ive had this problem on a few cars.
                  The trick is to keep going until you get so mad at it that you want to break it, then you'll hit it hard enough

                  Or put another heavy hammer up against the opposite side to help it deform when you hit it.
                  95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]
                  [/SIZE]

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                  • #24
                    Good info thanks for this.
                    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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