Placement of Locker activation switch

[BirdMan Member Find all posts View Profile Close BirdMan]

Toyota part number for rear diff lock switch.
84725‑60030

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_200...YW_8401.6.html

Looking at the link, it looks like the switch fits in the square blank directly under the keys. Looking at how my keys hang down, they would get in the way of being able to access the switch quickly and easily

[williade Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close williade]

Looking at the link, it looks like the switch fits in the square blank directly under the keys. Looking at how my keys hang down, they would get in the way of being able to access the switch quickly and easily

Yep. To the left of where my air compressor switch is. A bulky set of keys could get it the way, but diff locks aren't like brakes. You shouldn't be scrambling for them, seconds from disaster. That's how you blow diffs!



To be quite honest its the cost of $50 that would turn me away. It would be cool when you're trying to sell the Prado, when a self proclaimed Prado expert (with a degree from the university of Wikipedia) comes to inspect and finds yours has a "factory fitted" rear locker!

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

You can engage ARB lockers on the move as long as you follow the limitations set out in the manual. I didn't do this at first, but have since found they engage easier on the move, and it's almost essential in the case of a front locker on a big climb. I'd imagine it's the same with e-lockers, but of course check the manual.

[MRW82 Member Find all posts View Profile Close MRW82]

to engage lockers while moving is fine, just not when there is wheel spin or when turning as when this happens the side gears in the diff are rotating, and the sudden shock loading from locking them together is what will make things go bang.

while driving in a straight line (with no wheel spin) the side gears are stationary inside the diff centre (just ring and pinion rotating) so it is safe to engage lockers.


also, the location for the air locker switches posted is good, but it would have been neater if the dimmer switch was moved to one side and the compressor and locker switched placed side by side. an easy thing to do and it just neatens it off a little more. it's all about attention to detail on the little things.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

to engage lockers while moving is fine, just not when there is wheel spin or when turning as when this happens the side gears in the diff are rotating, and the sudden shock loading from locking them together is what will make things go bang.

while driving in a straight line (with no wheel spin) the side gears are stationary inside the diff centre (just ring and pinion rotating) so it is safe to engage lockers.


also, the location for the air locker switches posted is good, but it would have been neater if the dimmer switch was moved to one side and the compressor and locker switched placed side by side. an easy thing to do and it just neatens it off a little more. it's all about attention to detail on the little things.

Yes exactly! (but they do handle some pretty rough treatment in comps so mustn't be too easy to break)

Like this?

[williade Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close williade]

You can engage ARB lockers on the move as long as you follow the limitations set out in the manual.

Yeah I engage mine on the move, but I do so before I get wheel spin and typically at a speed which doesn't even register on the speedo.

When I get my front locker installed, I might be creative and get the factory front and rear locker switch from the 80 series Sahara.

It will fit in the same cut out as the 90 series rear locker switch and its available in Australia.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_199...WQ_8401.9.html

84725‑60020

[BirdMan Member Find all posts View Profile Close BirdMan]

also, the location for the air locker switches posted is good, but it would have been neater if the dimmer switch was moved to one side and the compressor and locker switched placed side by side. an easy thing to do and it just neatens it off a little more. it's all about attention to detail on the little things.

I looked at moving my dimmer switch, but it is keyed so it only fits in that hole, unless you want to go grinding the housing to remove the key, which I'm guessing is what Glen did

[croozza Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close croozza]

I think it is better to have the switches seperate (compressor switch on the left of the dimmer), as you can always leave the compressor switch on, then you only have two switches to press, which are right next to each other and you dont have to look down to see which one your pressing.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

I looked at moving my dimmer switch, but it is keyed so it only fits in that hole, unless you want to go grinding the housing to remove the key, which I'm guessing is what Glen did

Yeah, but it's only a little slot that needs to be cut out with a knife, which is much less damage than what's required to fit the ARB switches in (an entire side is trimmed for those, a little). I'm guessing your e switch didn't require that, or you haven't checked yet? Also, I should mention the wiring for the dimmer had to be extended to reach that spot, but it's an easy job and I'm happy with the location.

My compressor/locker locations may change though.. Croozza's idea has merit; to ease usage without looking.

[BirdMan Member Find all posts View Profile Close BirdMan]

Yeah, but it's only a little slot that needs to be cut out with a knife, which is much less damage than what's required to fit the ARB switches in (an entire side is trimmed for those, a little). I'm guessing your e switch didn't require that, or you haven't checked yet?

Yes, I have checked and the eLocker switch also required the side of the slot to be trimmed.

What I want to do now is find out if there is an indicator on the instrument cluster for the diff locker, and wire that into the switch. I can't see it in my owners manual, but the wiring diagram in my Max Ellery's manual indicates there is one.

[croozza Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close croozza]

Yes, I have checked and the eLocker switch also required the side of the slot to be trimmed.

What I want to do now is find out if there is an indicator on the instrument cluster for the diff locker, and wire that into the switch. I can't see it in my owners manual, but the wiring diagram in my Max Ellery's manual indicates there is one.

Aust spec models only have the centre diff lock indicator on the instrument cluster. Maybe that is what they are talking about.

[williade Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close williade]

Bit of a thread revival here. I'm planing on ditching the ARB switches in my 80 series. I have concluded that they are rubbish. None of the 3 switches I've got are firmly seated. The front locker switch broke after having been activated about half a dozen times (no front locker yet, the switch is just for show ) and a replacement costs +$20 on ebay.

I've bitten the proverbial bullet and bought a factory locker switch for the 80 series second hand from the US. Costed slightly more than a single ARB switch. I plan to wire it so the rear locker and air compressor are activated at the same time and I will utilise the factory dash lights to indicate when the lockers are engaged