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  • Wiring through the firewall for dual battery

    Hi all, I want to run a cable into the cargo are to connect up my dual battery system (AGM deep cycle which lives in the rear of the car) of my 2002 VX Petrol V6 5VZ-FE im just not sure where the best point is to run the cabling through the firewall. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  • #2
    I’m not very adept at auto wiring myself, but a friend of mine who did any 12v work on my previous 90 series always fed the cabling through the hole in the firewall where the glove box is. There’s a fair cluster of wiring looms behind the glove box taking up a bit of the space in there so you may need to tie the cable to a piece of wire and feed the wire through the hole so you can grab it from the inside & pull it through.
    2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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    • #3
      thanks for that info, i imagine id have to remove the glovebox in order to access that hole?

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      • #4
        There is a large rubber grommet that the main loom goes through on the left side that you can use.

        When you do it, unwrap the electrical tape and then make sure that you re-wrap.

        If you don't you will get water wicking along the cables and into the cabin. Water then will drip down and damage the remote entry module (if you have one).

        Trust me, I know.

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        • #5
          Thanks for that! Can you be a bit more specific as to where on the left side you are referring to if possible please!!

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          • #6
            It is in the engine bay where the wheel arch meets the bulkhead, behind the carbon canister (Petrol). It is the main cable run, so just follow that.

            Unwrap the electrical tape and use then use some old blunt screw drivers to stretch one side of the grommet open and then use a stiff piece of wire to push in alongside of the cable.

            You will find it in the inside above the kick panel but on the inside of the firewall.

            A bit of silicon spray on the wire you are trying to pull through works wonders, you just have to clean it before you rewrap with electrical tape.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by jonty93 View Post
              thanks for that info, i imagine id have to remove the glovebox in order to access that hole?
              Yes definitely. You can’t miss the large rubber grommet on the passenger side of the engine bay fire wall to feed the cabling through. To seal from a tiny bit of possible water ingress I just simply smeared a little bit of silicone around the cable where it had been pulled through the rubber grommet. Two Cape York trips afterward and no water got in.

              2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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              • #8
                Awesome, some useful info here from both of you. Appreciate it. Is it easy to remove the glovebox? I’ve never had to do it before, anything to watch out for?

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                • #9
                  I can’t remember exactly how I removed it, but it was very quick & easy. You’ll see when you open it and have a look. Who’s doing the wiring job for this 2nd battery in the boot if you don’t mind me asking? It’s just that if feeding the cable through the firewall & removing a glove box are hurdles for you, do you think you’ll be okay with the rest of the job such as using the correct minimum m2 of cable for the given length, fusing and earthing? Would you be using an isolator with this setup or just running something thick like welding cable or similar direct from the cranking battery to the boot so you can charge the auxiliary battery fast and then disconnect the cable when charging is complete. Many ways to skin a cat I suppose.
                  2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                  • #10
                    A mate who is a sparky is going to give me a hand, it’s just that he is not an auto sparky and unfamiliar with the 90s so thought I’d check in on here first. In terms of the wiring etc I was going to use one of these plug and play kits from Australian direct https://www.australiandirect.com.au/...ng-kit/3018556
                    i have a few of their products and they are fantastic

                    this is all in planning anyway, once I have everything together I’ll be looking at it and if I feel I can’t do it I’ll look into getting an autoelec to wire it in for me but always like to explore the DIY option first to save costs

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                    • #11
                      Oh yes the kit will make it easier. I have a VSR as well. Mine has a manual switch on it to link both batteries to transfer charge to the cranking battery from the deep cycle. Saved me when my alternator clapped out and I still had to drive the car to & from work for 3 days till it got replaced because the cranking battery was only able to support the electrics for 2 days (2hrs driving) before its charge got lowish. The damn ABS brakes were sucking the juice. If no ABS the cranking battery would’ve held up for 5 days. Yours is a very popular VSR too. Sold under many different names by many different on sellers. Costs for it alone varying from $30 to $80 or thereabouts.
                      2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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                      • #12
                        Just done mine. But I ran the cable down the were the firewall and inner guard meet and then through the chassis rail.
                        You have to run some wall sheeting plastic joint tongue into the chassis from the rear and fish it out through the chassis at the front. If you have a sparky helping he’d have to have some yellow tongue. Can be tricky to do but I got mine through. Bring out and up through the grommet behind the tail light. Jim
                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          The main wiring loom runs down the drivers side in AUS and the passenger side has plenty of room for a pair of 6 gage (not 6mm square) wires to be run down to the rear cargo area where you can do what you want there. Ken.
                          Ken
                          3.4 GXL man 1997 petrol / gas, BFG mud tyres 265 75 16, front and rear camera, Jaycar 6300Lm LED 6.5" D/L * 2, 15W LED reversing/work light, diff breathers, 42mm lift, Rear Anderson plug, Dash cam, and way too much recovery gear for one vehicle to carry around. No more HID headlamps. No more Narva D/L.

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