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1KV-TE Diesel - Drives excellent on flat, loses power up hill?

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  • #16
    May have given you a bum steer, check if your engine has a coolant sensor aft of the oil filter.
    I no longer have my 90, think my memory is letting me down.


    • #17
      Hmm not actually sure about the coolant sensor after the oil filter? Engine is the 1KZ-TE KZJ95R.

      No error codes from ECU. I did the cable jump as per your suggestion last week and the Engine light flashed continuously suggesting no faults. Auto Electrician confirmed this when I had it in checking the glow plugs the other day.

      I've been reading a really interesting modification thread in the Toyota Surf forum where a few of the guys were testing (and implementing) a variable resistor (or two) between the ECU and fuel pumps controlled from the drivers seat. Allows you to retard/advance the timing and fuel flow to fine tune your engine and (safely) gain more power for up hill driving and towing. Some even claim they're even getting improved fuel economy. The mod allows you to toggle different settings including disabled (original settings before mod.) Excellent read, highly recommended!

      After testing the resistance of the spill valve in particular, I noticed it was sitting at 2-2.2ohms when it should be between 1 and 2 ohms. (Might be kohms... I'm a bit tired today from researching this late last night... but you get the drift) So has me wondering if my starting issue might be related to the timing settings and exploring that might kill 2 birds with one stone. Fixing starting issue and improving towing power. I'm going to consult an experienced diesel mechanic before I touch any of that stuff but interesting discussion!


      • #18
        Look on the engine between oil filter and the firewall.
        Think there should be another coolant sensor there.
        Crank angle sensor is down that way too, just near the starter.
        Never got into changing resistors in the pump.
        Another item worth looking at is the little in line filter for the MAP sensor. They get a lot of oily gunk.
        If the MAP sensor doesn’t read correct boost, the pump won’t get the message to add fuel.
        No fuel, no power.


        • #19
          I ran some contact cleaner through that little MAP filter. Wasn't too bad. Spray came out clear. Crank sensor! That's the one I've been looking for! Might run it over the pit one night this week and see if I can find it from underneath. Do you know how to test them by chance? Is it a matter of just measuring the 2 pins and for what resistance? Cheers for all the info again. I'm learning heaps


          • #20
            Pretty sure she won’t go if the CAS is faulty.
            The injector pump controls timing via spill valve and ecu.
            The CAS just tells the ecu where No1 is.
            CAS is in a dreadful spot and is easily damaged if the starter is removed.
            Always best to unplug the CAS if you’re going to drop the starter so at least the plug and wiring won’t get damaged.
            Starter weighs a ton and is a no fun job.

            See if you can download a workshop manual for the kz. I’d post mine but it’s a 25Mb PDF and this site only permits 2Mb uploads.
            Or You could PM me your email and I’ll send it.


            • #21
              I've just discovered the repair manual you speak of last night. Perfect! All the technical info I've been looking for! She drives perfectly. No smoke. No cutting out or anything. Just these bloody cold starts which are a PITA. And of course the gutlessness under load but I think I have a solution sorted for that.

              Managed to cold start much quicker this morning through doing several short cranks as opposed to long cranks for a couple of minutes but still had to keep the starter motor turning while its firing (which I know is bad for it). I have a feeling the previous owner has been troubleshooting this for a while. Engine has a very new wiring harness in it + engine internal flush which we performed a couple of years ago. EGR is blocked. Fuel tank is holding pressure (releases suction when I open the tank to fill which I understand is good?)


              • #22
                Originally posted by carco View Post
                Pretty sure she won’t go if the CAS is faulty.
                The injector pump controls timing via spill valve and ecu.
                The CAS just tells the ecu where No1 is.
                Hey Carco, I got side tracked with going through the repair manual troubleshooting that I forgot about your suggestion RE possible damaged/faulty Coolant Sensor. That's interesting you say "the CAS just tells the ECU where No1 is". Because when I replaced the injectors the other day, the injector closest to the firewall (No1?) looked more damaged than the other 3. I wonder if that is related?

                Anyways, still plugging away trying to work this out. I have updated my original post with things I have tried to save others time reading through all the fix attempt posts. I am picking up a new SAAS Boost/EGT gauge tomorrow. Installing that will give me a better understanding of what the turbo boost is up to. And I will pop the truck over the pit tomorrow and have a suss at that coolant sensor/wiring. My wiring loom is fairly new so I doubt its a knackered wire but you never know. It may have been knocked at some stage like you say. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge


                • #23
                  Success! Short answer to cold start problem: Spill Control Valve

                  Long answer:

                  After much persistence and a day off work, I think I have finally fixed the damn cold start issue as well as made other performance enhancements. I'll share this answer on other related threads but basically I believe my Spill Control Valve solenoid was getting sticky and staying open or closed? Ended up removing the SCV from the pump insitu and bench testing. The solenoid was not clicking (activating) from the 10.4v being supplied to it from the ECU (tested with ignition on, plug removed from solenoid and jumper wires from the plug to the solenoid). I was receiving no resistance value (which according to the manual Section ED-9 is grounds for replacement) and was getting continuity across the pins on the solenoid suggesting it is stuck open? Wasn't looking good at this stage but also looking promising the issue was just the SCV and not the whole pump!

                  Got a couple of quotes for a replacement SCV. First was $380 ish excl. shipping. Second was a whopping $640 ish including shipping!!!) So I decided to test further.

                  Was able to get the solenoid to click with quick 12v shorts straight from the battery. So decided to click the solenoid open/closed about 20 times quickly in an attempt to loosen up what ever might have been getting sticky inside. Didn't think it would help but was worth a try! Gave the filter a quick blow out with some contact cleaner and put it all back together.

                  Whilst I was at it, I decided to remove the cover off the side of the throttle body that contains the electronic throttle mechanism to see what was going on in there. Noticed that the mechanism isn't resting on the stopper screw like it is meant to but I could not work out how to adjust that stopper screw? so had to leave it as is. Mechanism wasn't sticking so that was good. Went to put it back together and then realised that the whole setup is position sensitive :| Had no idea how to set the position so just guessed it. Reached my hand in and manually adjusted the spring loaded butterfly in the throttle body just enough so the spring was only just holding the tension of the throttle and then put it all back together.

                  Put it all back together, primed the pump. 2-3 turns and the engine came to life. Turned the engine off. Cleaned up my workshop. Came back 10 minutes later. Turned the key and the engine came to life again this time without even cranking! Idling perfectly, I let it warm up for about 5 minutes. Jumped in and took it for a test drive. The truck took off from standing still much quicker, I zoomed around the hills where I live much faster and snappier than it has been. It is like a new truck! Left it outside in the cold (8 degrees, windy and rainy) for an hour or so. Went out to take it for a highway run to see if there was any improvement with the up hill scenario, again the truck sprung to life in less than a crank! Incredible

                  No it did not improve the uphill gutlessness but normal driving around the hills is like a new car. You can really feel it pulling!

                  I have a boost controller ready to install and new 3 bar map sensor + EGT gauge so fingers crossed they will be the final piece of the puzzle.

                  Thanks for the help along the way Adrian and Carco


                  • #24
                    Spill control valve is what turns the car on / off so if it was sticky, you may have solved the hard to start problems?
                    Take care applying 12v to any solenoids as they typically max at 5-7 volts and something like that valve would probably run a duty cycle on/off to meter fuel.
                    I haven’t been in that valve but your diagnosis seems sound.
                    No 1 cylinder is closest to the radiator, for reference.


                    • #25
                      I read somewhere (reputable source) that the SCV is good for a volt range of 9-14v? I would bet my last dollar this is the solution to the common slow start issue. Also the sluggish/slow take off issue is resolved with this solution.

                      With truck running tip top, just installed an EGT gauge, turbo boost controller and 3 bar boost sensor. Prepping for a visit to the dyno to hopefully have the up hill sluggishness resolved. Just need to test drive a bit more and record results. Pulled a double 6x4 trailer load of firewood home today and the uphill towing performance was dramatically improved. Doesn't drop down into that gutless gear like it was doing. And wayyyy less throttle with general driving. Have not tested on the freeway gradual incline section yet which will be the ultimate test. Will test tomorrow. Fingers crossed we're good!


                      • #26
                        If you are still watching your post, check out Cost Effective Maintenance and give the great guys a call. I've been using their products for about 3 years -
                        e.g this is my sump and filter 20k after an engine flush, and having done 340k



                        • #27
                          Hi there! Long time reader, first time poster... Did you ever sort out the loss of power? Glad to hear that you sorted out your cold starts btw. I get worried reading these forums because I have no idea when it comes to mechanical, but am willing to change all that with my rig.
                          I have a 90 series with 205000km manual and I experience the same power issue as you. All good on the flat and small inclines, and as soon as we get past 8 degrees, the power will drop, and it is super hard to get the revs back. I try to shift down but with the massive loss of power I nearly always have to step all the way back to 2nd gear (max revs). If the incline is too steep, I can't shift it back up to 3rd.
                          So I guess my question is: did you find any light I could throw at my shade?


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