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TIMING BELT CHANGE - Canberra

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  • TIMING BELT CHANGE - Canberra

    Being reasonably competent working on mechanical things, I searched through Prado Point and the internet in general and it appeared the changing of a Timing Belt and Water Pump should be ok if I take my time. The incentive was the $1300 charge for the job from two over the phone quotes.
    All was going well, I pulled the front down end and the belt was ready to be released and removed. I tried removing the AC pump as instructed one way but ended up removing the top idler as suggested by another process. I easily removed the old belt but then met my match.
    As removed the belt the R/H (drivers view) cam pully rotated on its own very quickly about 30 degrees. With a socket I move it mack to TDC and it rotates the other way about the same. I bought it back very slowly to TDC but have now lost confidence. What if it is not perfectly aligned, what if I am a notch out on the re-installation.
    I expect compressing the tensioner is going to be a bugger.
    I have no mechanically minded mates - to bounce ideas with. May have to call a Mobile Mechanic - that will be an embarrassment.

  • #2
    Hi dryduststorm

    Have sent PM if you want me to send PDF to fit timing belt.

    Cheers

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey dryduststorm, Dont lose hope mate. If i was in ur shoes i would get the belt on with all the marks lined up as close as u can. Then remove the plugs and try turning the engine over using ur hand only. Dont force the crank around, with all the plugs out should move quite freely. Hopfully all go's well and there will be no tight spots. If u can turn the engine over a couple of times with no tight spots. Recheck that all the marks line up on the spot and u r good to go. Good luck!!
      96 3.4 GXL, 2" lift, Poly airs in rear, 32" BFG muddies, Lightforce 170's HID's, TJM rack, Awning, Twine on board shower, GME uhf, Dual batteries & monitor, Storage system, ARB fridge, LED rear lighting, Safari snorkel, Brown Davis bash plate, Ironman winch bar, Runva 11xp winch, Roadsafe recovery points, ARB compressor, Tyre dog monitor, AJ's sliders, Hema hn6. The to do list is getting shorter.

      Comment


      • #4
        Go and buy a Gregery's for a start they are quite handy not just for this job. The tentioner can be compressed in a vice or make a plate to bolt to it to compress it and a pin or nail through the holes in it to hold it during assembly, as for the pulley alignment just line them up as your running the belt around, then as said above if your not confident bar it over by hand.
        75 Series Cruiser No More
        Replaced with a G6E Turbo
        95 Series Prado [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?19936-Beast2h-s-Prado[/url]

        Comment


        • #5
          Dryduststorm,

          I would check you have the correct marks lined up, when I did my timing belt the cams were stable.
          From your description it sounds like one lobe is right at the maximum lift and rolling off when the belt tension releases.

          One thing to ensure is you fully tension the crankshaft pulley after reassembly, I know of a couple of cranks that have been damaged as the pulley has come loose.

          As has been said thought he job is not overly difficult, just grab a Gregorys or similar and take your time.

          Lee
          '18 VX, Billies with Dobinson springs, Summit bar with Narva Enhanced Optics to help my old eyes

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi Skywalkerrun - Thanks so much for your offer - I have the manual now but panicked when the valve springs auto rotated. I am moving forward with some confidence again.

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            • #7
              Greetings fellas - Having just joined the other week , it did not take long for me to yelp for help. I have the Gregorys manual but as I said to Skywalkrun, panicked when the Right cam auto rotated due to spring pressure when the belt was removed. You guys have given me the confidence to slowly continue - no rush. Tonight the water pump came out - it was in reasonable condition and the bearing was good for 150K. The center idler bearing has play and deterioration - so I will order one tomorrow.
              The drama tonight was taking out the huge bracket holding the AC Pump. A cow of a job. Using abut 5 socket extensions I got access via the RH wheel I loosened the top bolt with a breaker bar. The bottom one is sooo tight that the socket slipped. The socket has only a few facets so I will buy a better one tomorrow that will provide a more secure 14mm fit - if that makes sense. Thanks again.
              Mates with mechanical sense are rare in Canberra - mostly pen pushers.

              Comment


              • #8
                Job Completed. Took my time and it came together, saved a packet, but it was time consuming for the first go. The mechanics who do this for a living do earn every dollar.Click image for larger version

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                We have had the Prado over 10 years and at last in Jul
                doing our first trip Canberra to Burketown via the Burke and Wills route.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Gday dryduststorm

                  Glad all came good for you and respect to you for having a ago and taking the time to take your time

                  Now you know there is always someone on here to point you in the right direction when help is needed.

                  Preparation, time and patience is always your best friend.

                  If in doubt!... Always shout!..

                  Have an awesome trip to Burketown.

                  Cheers

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    not sure if you are still on here but i would appreciate the PDF to fit timing belt, cheers

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Double bloody post
                      Ken in Cairns
                      Junior Member
                      Last edited by Ken in Cairns; 23-04-2013, 06:03 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sorry if you know some of this or have worked it out, or have got it done.

                        The reason you have to get the A/C Compressor out of the way is to get to the cam belt tensioner bolts. Painful design, but that’s the way it is.

                        Just tie it up BEFORE you get it right off and beware of the alloy lines after the rubber hose section as they will break fairly easily, so don’t try and pull it to far.

                        From memory you undo the 4 bolts on the compressor mounting housing, the bit that bolt onto the engine block as that is the bit in the way, via the driver’s side inner guard, so take that wheel off, as well as the rubber splash shield that goes between the chassis and inner guard, long socket bar and a single hex socket will get most of them, one of the lower ones was a bit of a pain because of the steering rack, if I remember right. Wish I had done it when the rack and suspension was out.

                        You need to remove the tensioner, and squeeze it closed in a vice (with soft jaws) and then fit a pin through it to hold it in the retracted position, then refit it and pull the pin to release it once the belt is all fitted up. You will not get the belt in correctly unless the tensioner is retracted.
                        It is all described in the manual.

                        If you haven’t done so remove the spark plugs, makes it easier to turn over to check everything once you get it together.

                        Put a bit of low strength lock tight on the crankshaft pulley bolt, and make sure it is done up bloody tight.

                        The better belts also have marks on them, so make sure they are all aligned when you fit the cam belt, I found some of those cheap plastic clamps helped hold the belt onto the cam pulleys as God only blesses us with two hands.

                        It isn’t really a bad job, just a bit daunting if you haven’t done it before, you missed me by 20 years as I live in Canberra in the early 90’s.

                        There are some great threads here and on other forums, as well as people willing to put you on the right track and I’m sure you will get it done OK
                        Good luck, and just keep the 1000 buck savings in your mind
                        Ken in Cairns
                        Junior Member
                        Last edited by Ken in Cairns; 23-04-2013, 06:07 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You can buy a special tool from Toyota so you don't have to touch the AC compressor.
                          97 VX Grande, with front & rear air lockers, ARB Sahara winch bar with tigers 11 winch, 2" EFS lift, 265/75/16 Achilles Desert hawk XMT, and more.


                          [B]Bitumen - A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/B]

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