Gutless wonder....

[Pugaree Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pugaree]

What you aren't probably aware of mate is that since I started this thread nearly 12 months ago, the Prado stood not going anywhere. I've since brought it back on the road and am ready to get it fixed. Going to a mechanic is unfortunately not a financial option. To pay someone to investigate as to why a 12 year old car with 370K is down on power yet still runs smooth would probably cost me the same as a reco engine. Also as you've probably noticed, I'm not really asking people how to fix my car as I am trying to get ideas on what to check and also what correct specifications should be to compare to what I have. As an auto accessories fitter for over 15 years and a vehicle emissions tester in Alaska, I feel I'm more than capable of fixing this, I just want some ideas from people who are far more familiar with the quirks of this motor than myself. But your opinion is appreciated. Thanks mate!

To have a mechanic with a properly set up workshop would probably take no more than 3 or 4 hours, maybe $300 bucks, well below a reco engine and cheap for the years of experience the mechanic has. Who knows it might still be a $5.00 sensor that is throwing everything out. Just because it didn't throw a code doesn't mean a sensor isn't faulty. I had an issue with a crank angle sensor once but no codes.

I also laugh at the fact that you don't have enough money to go to a mechanic but have enough money to consider doing a diesel swap, potentially throwing away a perfectly good engine that you have now not to mention the cost and complication of doing so.

Have you invested in a service manual at least?

[scottkz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close scottkz]

Shouldn't ever need to touch the mixture screw, but if it's been played with in the past then that could be a problem, I'm not really up to speed with fuel mapping never got into that
Don't rule out a sensor problem they can still fail and give no codes ,
it should have more than enough power to do 100 even with a trailer on
Economy only sounds to me a few lt higher than what I was getting ,but with that it can affect performance
Another thing to check would be the fuel pressure regulator

[Steve M Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Steve M]

RanJ, I use to get 17.2 L per 100 round town running bigger tyres, winch bar, fridge lift etc in the V6 and that was literally short runs, eg to work 10k, picking up little one from daycare, pick up from school etc. Current 120 V6 is around 16's on average similar load etc. 1kz was around 13's on average round town. Manual form I believe are a lot better. .....Cheers Steve

[scottkz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close scottkz]

To have a mechanic with a properly set up workshop would probably take no more than 3 or 4 hours, maybe $300 bucks, well below a reco engine and cheap for the years of experience the mechanic has. Who knows it might still be a $5.00 sensor that is throwing everything out. Just because it didn't throw a code doesn't mean a sensor isn't faulty. I had an issue with a crank angle sensor once but no codes.

I also laugh at the fact that you don't have enough money to go to a mechanic but have enough money to consider doing a diesel swap, potentially throwing away a perfectly good engine that you have now not to mention the cost and complication of doing so.

Have you invested in a service manual at least?

Isn't this what the forums are for? Helping other ppl out with similar experiences ? Not just a "Iv got this problem" na mate take it to a mechanic
How many ppl on here have been f$&ked over by mechanics, I know my cars will never go to one

[Pugaree Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pugaree]

Isn't this what the forums are for? Helping other ppl out with similar experiences ? Not just a "Iv got this problem" na mate take it to a mechanic
How many ppl on here have been f$&ked over by mechanics, I know my cars will never go to one

My advice to see a mechanic is based on the previous answers offered to him on the thread. As I said, I'm all in favour of doing things yourself and I do. For me, going to a mechanic is normally a last resort or because I haven't the skills nor a particular specialized tool to do a job. Sometimes you have to cut your losses.

He has been chasing different issues, read some of his other threads, and just taking stabs in the dark as what to do next. His fault finding follows no logical approach. My advice, since he asked to get a professional to look over it. The secret to finding a good mechanic is approaching them with the right attitude and you'll soon work out if they are any good.

[RanJ Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close RanJ]

To have a mechanic with a properly set up workshop would probably take no more than 3 or 4 hours, maybe $300 bucks, well below a reco engine and cheap for the years of experience the mechanic has. Who knows it might still be a $5.00 sensor that is throwing everything out. Just because it didn't throw a code doesn't mean a sensor isn't faulty. I had an issue with a crank angle sensor once but no codes.

I also laugh at the fact that you don't have enough money to go to a mechanic but have enough money to consider doing a diesel swap, potentially throwing away a perfectly good engine that you have now not to mention the cost and complication of doing so.

Have you invested in a service manual at least?

We both know that the bill we be a lot more than $300 for the fault find. I'm sorry if you feel that I should be elaborating on my financial status but I won't be I will go as far as saying that I'm happy to pay a mechanic the $305 you potentially suggest. But if I spend a few hours on the internet and a few hours under the car and save the $300 part and only spend $5... Well to me, that sounds perfectly financially justifiable. Asking a mechanic to do the same job (which will be a lot more than $305) which I'm capable of myself, does not sound a like a financially smart move.

Now if I were in a position where I needed to replace the motor... I can also do that... If I needed. Obviously not going to throw out a perfectly good motor because I refused to pay a mechanic $305. If a replacement is required, then yes, I certainly would consider a diesel swap as it a better choice of engine for me. It wasn't when we originally purchased the car... But now it is. I have a lot of time and effort invested in electrical accessories on this chassis and would rather swap the motor then swap the accessories. You can laugh at the one too if you want.

My advice to see a mechanic is based on the previous answers offered to him on the thread. As I said, I'm all in favour of doing things yourself and I do. For me, going to a mechanic is normally a last resort or because I haven't the skills nor a particular specialized tool to do a job. Sometimes you have to cut your losses.

He has been chasing different issues, read some of his other threads, and just taking stabs in the dark as what to do next. His fault finding follows no logical approach. My advice, since he asked to get a professional to look over it. The secret to finding a good mechanic is approaching them with the right attitude and you'll soon work out if they are any good.

Im not quite sure what threads you are referring too nor do I really care. I have solved all of my issues with this car except for this one. Majority of them never reach this forum... As I have no need for them. When I have multiple possibilities of what the cause of a specific problem might be, instead of wasting my time and potentially.money chasing my tail I like to throw up a thread and gain the input from other owners of the same vehicle. Have they had the issue before? What led to their resolution? What specific parts should be replaced at the same time. Sorry if that seems confusing to you and illogical but to me it makes complete sense.

Now, as I have explained the vehicle is not being taken to a mechanic anytime soon (not "never" for the princesses playing at home) and you don't seem interested in offering any further solutions along the diy theme, I will presume that your interest is finished and you can move onto another one where your input will be far more valued and potentially helpful.... After all, automotive forums are usually about being helpful.

[Pugaree Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pugaree]

And here I was just trying to help.

Here's a little story to put my advice into context. A mate, (a very good home mechanic who has built a number of street machines and done multiple V8 conversions in to Forerunners, 80 series etc) just purchased a Lexus version of the 100 series. After a quick trip down the coast the gearbox started shifting roughly and threw multiple codes (we read these with my scan guage) relating to ABS and vehicle speed sensor and would go into limp mode. This was all quite intermittent and would only do it randomly after codes were cleared. Anyhow, we tested everything, cleaned connectors, checked wiring, replaced the speed sensor, did a fluid change and the problems still existed, all the stuff the Internet and forums told us to do. He persisted for a few weeks trying more things he found on the Internet, including a new valve body after speaking to a fairly high profile auto transmission specialist. He spent considerable hours and about $800 chasing the problem. I finally talked him into taking it it Toyota, who said its a Lexus, take it to them. He did and was dreading the huge Lexus invoice that was no doubt to come. He was called later that day and told the car was ready and it was $118.00. The diagnosis was a "stretched cable in one of the looms, not the first time I have seen it so I started there". The truck has been running for the last 6 months completely problem free. $118 bought a lot of experience that day.

[RanJ Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close RanJ]

Cool story bro.

Had a few people PM me about this and are genuinely interested in helping me and/or keen to see the progess being made.

As an update, I didn't get time yesterday to pull the powervalve from the exhaust or disconnect the exhaust. I have ordered a new timing belt and all the associated components to go with it. While I highly doubt its the timing belt causing issues, its overdue and needs to be done. I have a workshop manual on order and also a buddy who works at Toyota parts department is going to lend me the 90 Series bible and also any special tools required that I don't have.

Given the exhaust is completely original and 370,000 old... There is a very good chance it has some issues.

I completely agree the mixture screw should never be touched but I can see by looking at it that the actual turn know has been broken off and there are tool marks on it to suggest it has been moved. I can only presume a mechanic has moved it in the past... Probably the same guys who told me they serviced my transmission and didn't. No matter, I'll get a universal O2 sensor fitted and fit my gauge. Regardless, I like to have that gauge... It tells me a lot even if its only narrowband.

Have some spare time in the workshop today so with a bit of luck can get in and look at this exhaust... Oh to have a hoist lol

[Steve M Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Steve M]

Yeah RanJ a hoist is a must lol. I just dumped the oil on mine last night and filled her back up this morning. Crawling around on cold floor tiles in the garage this morning was a bit cool lol. I like to leave it overnight to get as much old oil out as possible.....There are lot of people on this site who love solving problems. Cant remember who it was but they had an issue with their 120 idling high, he was trying to solve that for, must have been nearly two bloody years, I would have sold it after couple of months lol.......Hope you find the issue causing the power loss. Id still be dropping the exhaust off it and seeing how it goes. I know my sisters car was running like a pig only a couple of months ago and turned out her catalytic converter was 90% blocked but she also had issues with heat coming up through the floor from it being blocked but I know the prado 95 doesnt have one but could be general muffler.....Cheers Steve

[RanJ Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close RanJ]

Well I think I might have had a bit of success! I haven't had a chance to drop the exhaust entirely but I did rip out the power valve and out the cover back on. While I haven't driven it yet, my vac gauge indicted something to me which proves hopeful. Normally at idle the car would sit at about 19" and if I brought the revs up (no load) it would drop to about 16-17". Now after removing the power valve it sits at 19-20" and throughout the entire rev range with no load it dipped below 18" except for the initial dab of the throttle.

For now I will leave the valve out and drive it for a few days and see what I think. Although I'm very well aware that valve is not the problem it has definetly opened up the exhaust a lot. So its time to focus on that as the other thing I noticed when I started hitting them to check for rattles was that they gave me a solid thud with no metallic ring to it at all! Not sure if these guys are packed with anything or clogged up.

[Steve M Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Steve M]

They normally do give a solid thud I found when giving them a hard fist hit. Even the 120 seems the same....Cheers Steve

[pjorek Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close pjorek]

Bloody hell I had no idea you needed to seek an approval on fixing your own car via the DIY method.

RanJ, I hope you received a written approval allowing you to work on your car mate?

Pugaree, mate this is a forum, if all the anwsers were "take it to the mechanic", forums would not exist. The reason why people ask questions is because they try to save themselves some money by problem finding themselves. This and the other forum have saved me $ over the years as I knew exactly what to tell my mechanic (I typically fault find myself and if I cannot fix it myself I will point it out to my mechanic).

[Pugaree Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pugaree]

Bloody hell I had no idea you needed to seek an approval on fixing your own car via the DIY method.

RanJ, I hope you received a written approval allowing you to work on your car mate?

Pugaree, mate this is a forum, if all the anwsers were "take it to the mechanic", forums would not exist. The reason why people ask questions is because they try to save themselves some money by problem finding themselves. This and the other forum have saved me $ over the years as I knew exactly what to tell my mechanic (I typically fault find myself and if I cannot fix it myself I will point it out to my mechanic).

Please have someone re read my posts to you, they may have better comprehension than you. If you look at the start date of the thread, it is 12 months he has been chasing this problem, hence my suggestion to see someone who will know what they are doing to finally get him back on the road, the truck running right and not doing any further damage than already may have been done. If the guy was here in Canaberra, I would have offered him the use of my equipment and a fresh set of eyes.

[Pugaree Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pugaree]

Bloody hell I had no idea you needed to seek an approval on fixing your own car via the DIY method.

RanJ, I hope you received a written approval allowing you to work on your car mate?

Pugaree, mate this is a forum, if all the anwsers were "take it to the mechanic", forums would not exist. The reason why people ask questions is because they try to save themselves some money by problem finding themselves. This and the other forum have saved me $ over the years as I knew exactly what to tell my mechanic (I typically fault find myself and if I cannot fix it myself I will point it out to my mechanic).

BTW, do you have anything worthy to add to this thread, any suggestions that might help the bloke out?

[scottkz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close scottkz]

Please have someone re read my posts to you, they may have better comprehension than you. If you look at the start date of the thread, it is 12 months he has been chasing this problem, hence my suggestion to see someone who will know what they are doing to finally get him back on the road, the truck running right and not doing any further damage than already may have been done. If the guy was here in Canaberra, I would have offered him the use of my equipment and a fresh set of eyes.

Maybe you should re-read it.... I think you'll find the car sat for nearly a year as he didn't need it so he wasn't chasing ideas