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Prado 5VZ-FE turbo build
Howdy!
So I've recently completed the project of adding boost to my 2000 model VX auto 5VZ-FE Prado, and thought I'll compile my process and parts used into a thread to assist anyone that might be keen to give this a go.
My aim was to do this in a somewhat low budget manor, but still produce good results in terms of power increase, drivability and reliability, and so far its been pretty good!
Just to note, there are probably plenty of ways to do this, and I'm not claiming that this is the best way to turbocharge your 5VZ.
I've been driving the Prado for the last 4-5 months in its boosted glory, and its been so-far so-good.
Quick run-down of the parts, excluding little specific things like fittings etc that I cant remember..
*CX Racing turbo manifolds to suit the 5VZ-FE. This is the only company that make an 'off the shelf' set of turbo manifolds for this engine. Don't bother getting the downpipe with it, it doesn't fit with RH drive steering column. Just the manifolds.
*A turbo. I went with a China GT3582 T3 flange to suit external wastegate. You could definitely use a size down (perhaps a 3076 or TO4E) with an internal wastegate. It will simplify the build, as you'll see I had some trouble with room for an external WG.
*A wideband O2 sensor and gauge. This is obvious as you're applying forced induction to an N/A engine - gotta know those AFR's!
*An adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator. This is required to raise the fuel pressure in relation to boost pressure at a 1:1 ratio.
*Some form of intercooling. I chose to use a water to air intercooler pretty much because of lack of space behind front grille for a decent size air/air IC. If you have room for an air/air IC, it is much more simple. The other option is to go with a water/methanol injection kit. I have no experience with them, but they appear to be a viable option, especially if space for an IC is a problem.
*Colder spark plugs. These are a must when adding forced induction, due to increased cylinder temperatures, the spark plugs have to be able to cope with that extra heat. I used Denso IK22. These are 2 steps colder from standard plugs.
*An upgraded fuel pump (2 if you have a sub tank). I went with a Walbro 255LPH universal pump. It fit in the standard sender/pump holder but I had to cut the steel pipe that runs down to the pump a bit shorter for it to fit. (The standard fuel pump does not maintain sufficient pressure for fuel demands when up around 8-10psi, I found this out).
*A boost gauge and some form of boost controller. I went with a Turbosmart E-boost street electronic boost controller. A basic boost T will do the job if using IWG.
*A cooler thermostat. Not mandatory but seeing as its probably going to produce more heat, and with a hot climate especially, it makes sense. I used a Tridon high flow 82deg thermostat.
*A custom fabricated down pipe and exhaust. If using the CX racing kit, and in my case you have a big ABS actuator/module near the turbo, then the downpipe will be quite snug, but I did manage to make a 3" pipe from the turbo and all the way through.
YOU COULD get away with just the above parts and run a low boost (5psi) and call it a day. I ran mine without any engine management upgrade and up to 5-6PSI it maintained happy AFR's of 12.5-13:1 at WOT. It probably goes without saying but you definitely need to run 98oct fuel in this scenario. I only did this for experimental purposes before fitting the XEDE Processor piggyback and 7th injector.
This is obviously not optimal, and some form of engine management should be used for tuning. But at low boost levels it should be safe from detonation on Premium 98.
So I've recently completed the project of adding boost to my 2000 model VX auto 5VZ-FE Prado, and thought I'll compile my process and parts used into a thread to assist anyone that might be keen to give this a go.
My aim was to do this in a somewhat low budget manor, but still produce good results in terms of power increase, drivability and reliability, and so far its been pretty good!
Just to note, there are probably plenty of ways to do this, and I'm not claiming that this is the best way to turbocharge your 5VZ.
I've been driving the Prado for the last 4-5 months in its boosted glory, and its been so-far so-good.
Quick run-down of the parts, excluding little specific things like fittings etc that I cant remember..
*CX Racing turbo manifolds to suit the 5VZ-FE. This is the only company that make an 'off the shelf' set of turbo manifolds for this engine. Don't bother getting the downpipe with it, it doesn't fit with RH drive steering column. Just the manifolds.
*A turbo. I went with a China GT3582 T3 flange to suit external wastegate. You could definitely use a size down (perhaps a 3076 or TO4E) with an internal wastegate. It will simplify the build, as you'll see I had some trouble with room for an external WG.
*A wideband O2 sensor and gauge. This is obvious as you're applying forced induction to an N/A engine - gotta know those AFR's!
*An adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator. This is required to raise the fuel pressure in relation to boost pressure at a 1:1 ratio.
*Some form of intercooling. I chose to use a water to air intercooler pretty much because of lack of space behind front grille for a decent size air/air IC. If you have room for an air/air IC, it is much more simple. The other option is to go with a water/methanol injection kit. I have no experience with them, but they appear to be a viable option, especially if space for an IC is a problem.
*Colder spark plugs. These are a must when adding forced induction, due to increased cylinder temperatures, the spark plugs have to be able to cope with that extra heat. I used Denso IK22. These are 2 steps colder from standard plugs.
*An upgraded fuel pump (2 if you have a sub tank). I went with a Walbro 255LPH universal pump. It fit in the standard sender/pump holder but I had to cut the steel pipe that runs down to the pump a bit shorter for it to fit. (The standard fuel pump does not maintain sufficient pressure for fuel demands when up around 8-10psi, I found this out).
*A boost gauge and some form of boost controller. I went with a Turbosmart E-boost street electronic boost controller. A basic boost T will do the job if using IWG.
*A cooler thermostat. Not mandatory but seeing as its probably going to produce more heat, and with a hot climate especially, it makes sense. I used a Tridon high flow 82deg thermostat.
*A custom fabricated down pipe and exhaust. If using the CX racing kit, and in my case you have a big ABS actuator/module near the turbo, then the downpipe will be quite snug, but I did manage to make a 3" pipe from the turbo and all the way through.
YOU COULD get away with just the above parts and run a low boost (5psi) and call it a day. I ran mine without any engine management upgrade and up to 5-6PSI it maintained happy AFR's of 12.5-13:1 at WOT. It probably goes without saying but you definitely need to run 98oct fuel in this scenario. I only did this for experimental purposes before fitting the XEDE Processor piggyback and 7th injector.
This is obviously not optimal, and some form of engine management should be used for tuning. But at low boost levels it should be safe from detonation on Premium 98.
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