Ok, as with my Diff Breather Installation – How To, I am probably repeating a lot of information available on other forums. I just thought I’d document (photographs and notes) my installation in the hope that it may help others on Prado Point (though I am probably the last person to fit a snorkel to a 90 Series!)
My Vehicle: 2000 RV 3.4ltr V6 (90 Series)
Tools Used:
+ Flat Blade Screw Driver
+ Phillips Head Screw Driver
+ Long Nose Pliers
+ 13mm Ring Spanner
+ 10mm & 12mm socket
+ Masking Tape
+ Permanent Marker
+ Centre Punch
+ Hammer
+ Drill
+ 2mm & 4mm Drill Bit
+ Step Drill (min 8 – 16mm)
+ 83mm Hole Saw
+ Jigsaw (w/T118A Metal Blade)
+ Rotary tool (w/grinding attachment)
+ Workshop Vacuum
+ Auto Grade Double Sided Tape
+ Paper Towel
+ Spray ‘n’ Wipe
+ Auto Silastic / Silcone
+ Kill Rust Metal Primer
+ Touch Up Paint
+ Spare Retaining Clips (for Wheel Arch Trim)
+ Safety Glasses
Parts:
Kit No. SS185HF
Make sure you check every part against the parts list on the instruction sheet before you start drilling and cutting just in case you are missing something. As it was I had to pinch the wife’s car to go back to Bunnings for a new drill half way through drilling the holes).
+ ½ Meter of Pinch Weld
Get to it!
Give the fender a good clean before starting and look at what will soon be full of holes.
Using a flat blade screw driver (I used two, you will see why when you look at the clips) gently lift the head of the clip and remove. Drop the wheel arch trim onto the wheel (I also turned the wheel to full left lock before starting). I broke 4 or 5 of the clips whilst removing them, the remaining clips are more than enough to get me by until I can get to Toyota on Tuesday to pick up more.
Remove the Air Cleaner Assembly and fill intake hose with a CLEAN rag to avoid dirt, dust and metal shaving getting in.
Align template on the fender and tape securely in place. Mark each of the holes with a permanent marker and remove the template. Now realign the template and reattach with tape and check that the markings are correct. MEASURE TWICE THEN MEASURE AGAIN. Remember, if you stuff this one up the only fix is a new quarter panel!
Centre Punch (or use a clout nail as I did) all 7 holes then, don your safety glasses and drill a 4mm pilot hole in all 7. Using the Step Drill, enlarge the 5 fastener holes to 16mm. Using the 83mm Hole Saw, cut out the last two holes. After these two are cut there will be a small amount of metal (top and bottom) that needs to be trimmed off (between the upper and lower limits of the two cut holes). I masked the metal above and below the holes and cut the remaining metal away with the jigsaw. Now using the rotary tool (or dremal or die grinder) clean up the edges of all the holes.
Clean the area and apply primer and touch up paint as per the product directions.
Remove the Air Entry Duct from inside the fender as well as the entry piece into the engine bay (discard or store … your choice)
As per the instruction sheet …
“Install mounting studs and upper mounting bracket to the Snorkel body. Position Snorkel on guard and mark out around the outside edge of the upper mounting bracket.” When you come to do this you’ll be like ‘How the F*** did they mark around the bracket?’. What I did was this; fastened the upper mounting bracket in place with the centre bolt and the outer two bolts fitted loosely. I then placed 3M double sided tape (the removable type for 3M hooks) on the bracket. With the snorkel in place I removed the bolts from the upper mounting bracket and removed the snorkel. The 3M tape held the bracket in place and I drilled 4mm pilot holes with the bracket in place then removed it. Drill out the holes with the Step Drill to 8mm and clean up with the Rotary Tool. The instructions don’t say to, but I treated these holes with primer and touch up paint as well. When the paint is suitably dry, insert the square plugs. I then applied Auto Grade Double Sided Tape to the bracket before screwing it to the A Pillar. A fairly straight forward process, I can’t see that this step would be a serious issue for anyone.
Remove the Air Entry Duct from the Air Cleaner Assembly base. You will need to drill out two rivets to remove it. (I also took this opportunity to give it a good clean out as well as the catchment that attaches to the bottom). I also filled the hole in the bottom of the catch pan with silastic … why? … well simply because I figure if I’m installing a snorkel then I don’t want water entering from the bottom of the air cleaner.
Slide the connecting rubber hose onto the Connecting Ducts. Slide the Connecting Duct into the hole between the engine bay and fender. It will hang there without falling out. Reinstall the Air Cleaner Assembly base but don’t tighten bolts. Apply silastic around the square end of the Connecting Duct then slide it into the Air Cleaner Assembly and bolt the assembly into place and clean up the silastic with your finger. Drill a 2mm hole in the top of the joint between the assembly and the duct and fasten with the screw provided.
I then lined the main hole with Pinch Weld. It doesn’t say to but I figure that there is a possibility that the metal MAY rub on the plastic (we know who wins there) and for the sake for a couple of dollars I figured why not.
Reach up inside the panel and pop out the indicator and disconnect it. This will give you more room to reach up to the bolts. Fasten the snorkel in place by the 5 washers and nylock nuts and the three bolts on the upper mounting bracket. If you have big hands like me then enjoy the challenge of getting a ring spanner up inside the panels to tighten the nuts. Took me a while but got there in the end ... obviously
Slide two pipe clamps onto the Connecting Duct then slide the Connecting Hose to be even on the Snorkel and Connecting Duct. Secure the hose in place with the two pipe clamps
Reinstall the Indicator.
Reinstall the wheel arch trim.
Reinstall Air cleaner assembly and filter. Ensure all hoses and connectors are reconnected. Double and Triple check that no tools are left in the engine bay before dropping the hood.
Install Ram Intake and … if anything like my job … clean all the finger prints off the paintwork. Now stand back and admire your work
Well not as hard as I thought it may have been. Took me a better part of the day but then again I had several breaks (lunch, bunnings etc). Doing a dedicated job should only a few hours (minimal drying time with the primer and touch up).
:idea: Again, I hope this helps ... someone :idea:
My Vehicle: 2000 RV 3.4ltr V6 (90 Series)
Tools Used:
+ Flat Blade Screw Driver
+ Phillips Head Screw Driver
+ Long Nose Pliers
+ 13mm Ring Spanner
+ 10mm & 12mm socket
+ Masking Tape
+ Permanent Marker
+ Centre Punch
+ Hammer
+ Drill
+ 2mm & 4mm Drill Bit
+ Step Drill (min 8 – 16mm)
+ 83mm Hole Saw
+ Jigsaw (w/T118A Metal Blade)
+ Rotary tool (w/grinding attachment)
+ Workshop Vacuum
+ Auto Grade Double Sided Tape
+ Paper Towel
+ Spray ‘n’ Wipe
+ Auto Silastic / Silcone
+ Kill Rust Metal Primer
+ Touch Up Paint
+ Spare Retaining Clips (for Wheel Arch Trim)
+ Safety Glasses
Parts:
Kit No. SS185HF
Make sure you check every part against the parts list on the instruction sheet before you start drilling and cutting just in case you are missing something. As it was I had to pinch the wife’s car to go back to Bunnings for a new drill half way through drilling the holes).
+ ½ Meter of Pinch Weld
Get to it!
Give the fender a good clean before starting and look at what will soon be full of holes.
Using a flat blade screw driver (I used two, you will see why when you look at the clips) gently lift the head of the clip and remove. Drop the wheel arch trim onto the wheel (I also turned the wheel to full left lock before starting). I broke 4 or 5 of the clips whilst removing them, the remaining clips are more than enough to get me by until I can get to Toyota on Tuesday to pick up more.
Remove the Air Cleaner Assembly and fill intake hose with a CLEAN rag to avoid dirt, dust and metal shaving getting in.
Align template on the fender and tape securely in place. Mark each of the holes with a permanent marker and remove the template. Now realign the template and reattach with tape and check that the markings are correct. MEASURE TWICE THEN MEASURE AGAIN. Remember, if you stuff this one up the only fix is a new quarter panel!
Centre Punch (or use a clout nail as I did) all 7 holes then, don your safety glasses and drill a 4mm pilot hole in all 7. Using the Step Drill, enlarge the 5 fastener holes to 16mm. Using the 83mm Hole Saw, cut out the last two holes. After these two are cut there will be a small amount of metal (top and bottom) that needs to be trimmed off (between the upper and lower limits of the two cut holes). I masked the metal above and below the holes and cut the remaining metal away with the jigsaw. Now using the rotary tool (or dremal or die grinder) clean up the edges of all the holes.
Clean the area and apply primer and touch up paint as per the product directions.
Remove the Air Entry Duct from inside the fender as well as the entry piece into the engine bay (discard or store … your choice)
As per the instruction sheet …
“Install mounting studs and upper mounting bracket to the Snorkel body. Position Snorkel on guard and mark out around the outside edge of the upper mounting bracket.” When you come to do this you’ll be like ‘How the F*** did they mark around the bracket?’. What I did was this; fastened the upper mounting bracket in place with the centre bolt and the outer two bolts fitted loosely. I then placed 3M double sided tape (the removable type for 3M hooks) on the bracket. With the snorkel in place I removed the bolts from the upper mounting bracket and removed the snorkel. The 3M tape held the bracket in place and I drilled 4mm pilot holes with the bracket in place then removed it. Drill out the holes with the Step Drill to 8mm and clean up with the Rotary Tool. The instructions don’t say to, but I treated these holes with primer and touch up paint as well. When the paint is suitably dry, insert the square plugs. I then applied Auto Grade Double Sided Tape to the bracket before screwing it to the A Pillar. A fairly straight forward process, I can’t see that this step would be a serious issue for anyone.
Remove the Air Entry Duct from the Air Cleaner Assembly base. You will need to drill out two rivets to remove it. (I also took this opportunity to give it a good clean out as well as the catchment that attaches to the bottom). I also filled the hole in the bottom of the catch pan with silastic … why? … well simply because I figure if I’m installing a snorkel then I don’t want water entering from the bottom of the air cleaner.
Slide the connecting rubber hose onto the Connecting Ducts. Slide the Connecting Duct into the hole between the engine bay and fender. It will hang there without falling out. Reinstall the Air Cleaner Assembly base but don’t tighten bolts. Apply silastic around the square end of the Connecting Duct then slide it into the Air Cleaner Assembly and bolt the assembly into place and clean up the silastic with your finger. Drill a 2mm hole in the top of the joint between the assembly and the duct and fasten with the screw provided.
I then lined the main hole with Pinch Weld. It doesn’t say to but I figure that there is a possibility that the metal MAY rub on the plastic (we know who wins there) and for the sake for a couple of dollars I figured why not.
Reach up inside the panel and pop out the indicator and disconnect it. This will give you more room to reach up to the bolts. Fasten the snorkel in place by the 5 washers and nylock nuts and the three bolts on the upper mounting bracket. If you have big hands like me then enjoy the challenge of getting a ring spanner up inside the panels to tighten the nuts. Took me a while but got there in the end ... obviously
Slide two pipe clamps onto the Connecting Duct then slide the Connecting Hose to be even on the Snorkel and Connecting Duct. Secure the hose in place with the two pipe clamps
Reinstall the Indicator.
Reinstall the wheel arch trim.
Reinstall Air cleaner assembly and filter. Ensure all hoses and connectors are reconnected. Double and Triple check that no tools are left in the engine bay before dropping the hood.
Install Ram Intake and … if anything like my job … clean all the finger prints off the paintwork. Now stand back and admire your work
Well not as hard as I thought it may have been. Took me a better part of the day but then again I had several breaks (lunch, bunnings etc). Doing a dedicated job should only a few hours (minimal drying time with the primer and touch up).
:idea: Again, I hope this helps ... someone :idea:
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