Why not go with 32's instead. I have a 00 GXL Prado with 2" lift kit and have no problems. For the sake of an extra 1" diameter (or 1/2" extra clearance) I felt it was easier to stcik with 32's - plus less weight on the back door
cheers
Hi
I have the 285 75 R 16 on 7" x 16 rigs BF Goddrich Mud terrain ( old type )
I have a 60 mm suspension lift front and back with OME coils middle / hard and Nitro charger , and spacer from 4WD from Australia.
I felt that teh motor of my Prado need much more power with this tires .
But it looks so great !!!!!
In wintertime I have the BF Goddric All Terrain 265 75 R 16 ,. so have better Grip on snow and ice .
Bye
your cruisergerd
Hello
here a photo from the last bushtaxi meeting , European biggest meeting of Landcruiser
we had a camp there for 3 days and went a little bit offroading at this area
Ok guys can anyone tell me what I will have to do to fit 285/75/16's to my 1998 grande? It has 2" OME lift already and the stock alloys. I don't mind working the mud flaps and guards to make them fit (previously had a Sierra with 34's) or adding some castor but I would not like to tear off the flares and would prefer keeping the stock alloys. If the stock grande alloys make it to difficult the are there any other Toyota factory alloys with a more suitable offset? Don't want ugly steel rims and would rather second hand factory alloys to keep costs down and keep it in the family. I don't plan on ever removing the sway bars for more flex, I just desire a little more diff and sill clearance. I will fit a rear locker eventually if lifting wheels becomes a problem.
Body lift and some guard/mudflap manipulation is the best solution. I expect the body seam would also need to be trimmed.
Rim offset might need to be changed, but I would recommend you change the tyres (or just the spare) using the stock rims, and check all the clearances yourself. For reference the stock alloys are +15 which may cause the wide tyres to rub on the UCA, so I suspect +5 or 0 offset would be ideal - but - don't take my word for it, check it yourself. If you're willing to modify your flares and mud guards then you're capable enough to do the clearancing yourself (to get a result you're happy with). My offset is -13 but I have skinny 33's and it still required a fair bit of guard manipulation.
Body lift and some guard/mudflap manipulation is the best solution. I expect the body seam would also need to be trimmed.
Rim offset might need to be changed, but I would recommend you change the tyres (or just the spare) using the stock rims, and check all the clearances yourself. For reference the stock alloys are +15 which may cause the wide tyres to rub on the UCA, so I suspect +5 or 0 offset would be ideal - but - don't take my word for it, check it yourself. If you're willing to modify your flares and mud guards then you're capable enough to do the clearancing yourself (to get a result you're happy with). My offset is -13 but I have skinny 33's and it still required a fair bit of guard manipulation.
I haven't done a articulation test yet on the current 265/75/16's but I will be doing so soon. rubbing on the control arm might be the only thing that prevents me from using the stock alloys, I'd really like to keep them if I could. Body lift I'm not going to attempt, airbags and just plain to much effort for my liking if it comes to that I'll stick with 265/75/16. When you say 0 offset or +5 is that pertaining to a 7" rim or stepping up to an 8"? 8" with 0 offset will give a litte wider track but have the inner edge in a very similar place to the factory +15 7".
Rim width has no bearing on offset. Offset is the rim/tyre centre compared to the hub face. For example;
- 0 offset is a rim perfectly centered on the hub face, regardless of the rim being 7" or 8".
- +15 offset is a rim centered 15mm inside of the hub face, regardless of the rim being 7" or 8".
Yes with an offset change the inside and outer edges of the rim are moved, but bottom line; 7" or 8" won't matter, because it's the rubber which is likely to rub on things.
The major consideration for rim width is it's suitability for the intended tyre. With my skinnies, I chose to stick with 7" so the rubber will be held in tightly (ie, not fall off easily when aired down) and so the rim won't get scratched too much.
I know what offset is lol. I also wouldn't mind keeping 7" rims even on 285's, should be able to squeeze them on and they'll hold the bead nicely. With an 8" rim at 0 offset the inner bead will be in a similar place to the factory +15 7" rims but the section width should be pulled a little further to the outside, so maybe gaining a few mm clearance on the control arm. A 0 offset 7" rim will bring the inner bead 15mm outwards but the section width would bulge a little more inwards so I'd assume no more than 10mm extra clearance.
What offset do you have on your 7" rims and what kind of clearance do you have on the control arm?
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