New 2016 Prado 2.8 Pricing

[McMatt Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close McMatt]

Hi McMatt,

It is brand new Prado GXL diesel with 22km on the odometer. But I only get 1 year road side assistance from Toyota. I think it is not a big deal and I can get it from RACV for around $90 a year. All the best for your hunting!

Thanks JamesPrado! Enjoy your brand new awesome toy!

[skirulz Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close skirulz]

Any one else got any prices? I few dealers I have been to in Sydney don't want to budge below 62000 with no accessories

[OzDriver Member Find all posts View Profile Close OzDriver]

Given the time of year you might want to follow my approach from last year: I haggled and signed the order on 31st Dec (so the dealer topped up their monthly and annual sales figures/bonuses) but the car was a 2016 factory build and Aus rego. (slightly better for re-sale). I included tow bar, 4 carpet mats, boot mat, front sensors, full tank and a few other minor bits. Prices seems to have gone up since so a similar deal to mine would probably be around $64k now for a GXL 2.8 Auto in a normal paint. Demo models just don't seem that much off a new build.

[ConnorH Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close ConnorH]

63.6 for a GXL auto in white, including towbar, rubber mats and cargo tray. Best price I could get around Sydney by a good margin.

[hary camel Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close hary camel]

hi guys I just picked up a new silver auto gxl with a tow bar for 58K they had it as hail affected stock but be buggered if I can find any on it

I got it from Ipswich qld

[skirulz Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close skirulz]

hi guys I just picked up a new silver auto gxl with a tow bar for 58K they had it as hail affected stock but be buggered if I can find any on it

I got it from Ipswich qld

Whats the downside of purchasing a hail affected vehicle? I hear that insurance companies dont like to insure hail affected vehicles.

[skirulz Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close skirulz]

Called the Hail affected place and got quoted $61741 for a hail damaged repaired 2.8 gxl prado with two bar in Bronze

[RB80 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RB80]

Howdy folks,
Below is a quick primer for my fellow PP'ers who want some new wheels but don't really know how to go about negotiating to get it. I've been thinking about writing something like this up for a while in the hope it saves somebody a few $ or $$$$ and seeing the variation of deals here. Some people do just fine in this process but others need more of a hand and that's okay too, this overview is really for them. There is a bit of negotiation theory with batnas etc. behind this, but it's all the same in the end, we all want the best car for the lowest price. It irritates me how many people are likely to get ripped off by dealers day-in day-out, so having a few well-armed customers at dealerships is just fine by me. Use all or some of it, it's up to you, IMO you have nothing to lose and only $$ to gain.

Disclaimer: this has worked for myself and others, but may not work for you or not as well, so please trust your judgement and act accordingly, be agile in your approach and adjust as needed. And always be positive and respectful, it goes a long way even with salespeople.

A quick bit of background for context for you soon to be big-spenders. For 99%, the great prices listed in this thread were the result of some negotiation; they weren't the first price offered and accepted i.e. if you don't ask you won't receive. Guess what a salesperson's #1 fear is? Losing a customer after the first offer. So understand they are willing to negotiate to get the sale. How much is the only question. So if you want a deal better than Joe Blogs the walk-in customer, then you have to negotiate. Again, with nothing to lose and $$ to gain, I suggest you go for it.

But relax, IMO this process is best undertaken over the phone. The reason being dealer salespeople are trained in face to face sales, pressure sales tactics, reading the customers to qualify them, persuade them and press any buttons to influence and get that sale across the line. You neuter them by doing it remotely over the phone, literally holding the power in your hand, and most importantly keeping a clear head to concentrate and focus on what they are saying and what's important to you - getting the best deal for you.

1) First, pay your local dealer a visit to show them you are interested and so they know who you are, who they are, build some rapport, start the relationship. Show some interest, but don’t start a negotiation, just express your genuine interest for that certain model & colour, & ask for/take a business card.

2) The rest of this process will probably take a few hours in total once you start the ball rolling, so be prepared as it can get a bit intense at times. But its success is dependent on your commitment - be committed to getting the best deal for yourself! Many average deals were the result of not demonstrating a commitment to the saleperson the buyer was genuine, or a salesperson read a customer as just price checking and gave them a near-standard list price. This commitment may even harder to convey over the phone, so in all of your conversations and remarks you need to show them you are a serious player, today. At each stage you have to show you are committed to the idea that if you get the best deal you will make a deal. But it may not be their deal. Internalise that for second. You are authentically seeking to get the best deal for yourself (and family if lucky enough), and if you get the best deal you (genuinely) would be happy to sign the contract (& note a statutory cooling off period may apply, pls check your state). If you can do that, & really demonstrate your resolve to work through this and commit to striking the best deal, the salesperson will follow your lead. The success of this process is dependent on getting salespeople on board, and if not your first few dealers in 3) below, find other dealers who will get on board.

3) Find between 3-4 dealers in your area, maybe one or two more if you have time, but no less. My advice here is to exclude from this list the dealer you would like the final sale with, e.g. your local dealer, for reasons made clear in step 10. Now write down a list of your extras wish-list. For me it was metallic paint, tint, mats, sensors, and towbar. Yours may be different. But if you get it now, it's covered by the new car warranty, so when in doubt, add it in as part of the deal.

4) Get a car only starting price from an ad on the net or a car broker (who will ring a dealer anyway). It doesn't matter, the initial price is irrelevant, it's just a real starting point to work from.

5) Call the first dealer and ask them to beat that initial price. Easy. Now using your authentic resolve to get the best price, ask them to throw in one of the extras. I suggest starting with the big extras and working to little ones, but up to you. Say thank you very much, you will absolutely think about it as you are committed to getting this car, and you'll get back to them today. You get the picture. Show the commitment.

6) The fun begins. Call the next dealer, and ask them to beat the first dealer's price (including the first extra) and state that if they can beat that price and add in the next extra (from your wish-list) you'll seriously consider a deal today. Word it nicely, but keep doing that, going around and around until all your extras are accounted for, knocking down the price as you go. You can see how important it is to demonstrate your commitment to making a deal. Some where you may find a price plateau, but keep going, you might be surprised which dealers are happy to keep going. Again, be positive, be respectful, it's ok. If a Dealer arcs up/complains/gets in anyway confrontational, calmly tell them it's the other dealer's price they need to beat, you are simply the messenger here and if they can beat that price, with that extra, we could have a deal today. Feel free to say such things as "The ball is in their court" "You don't want to tell them how to do their job, but if they want a sale, well...."etc. etc. They will not be happy, but they will play ball as you've actually demonstrated you want a deal despite being a PITA.

7) What you are doing in this process is creating a best alternative to an agreement so when, inevitably, a dealer does finally knock you back you can confidently and genuinely say to them, well actually, I've already got another deal. You choose what happens next, walk away, or tell them to try harder! Because now you have the power of a better deal (or deals) in your back pocket to decide, real offers from other dealers. How the tables turn.

8) At some point, you may find yourself naturally in more detailed discussion with only a few dealers, having lost a few along the way. You may also find the negotiation getting noticeably tougher, perhaps it's a sticking point on a $$ figure or that last extra to include for a comprised final price for just a little bit more. That's probably a sign you are approaching the limit of this deal-gathering process. But you need to be sure they aren't sandbagging, so acknowledge their efforts, thank them for the price, their time, and tell them you will call them back. In the meantime, call another dealer and assess their response to the near-final deal. Maybe it is the best you can get or are comfortable pushing for? You decide.

9) A quick note on deposits. Some dealers will ask for a deposit mid-negotiation or during the discussion, or simply ask for your credit card from which they will take a deposit. Absolutely under no circumstances give a deposit until the final price is agreed and contract signed! This cannot be overstated: you cannot negotiate after you've made a deposit - you will lose any power if you do. Absolutely, never, ever! leave a deposit until you have physically signed a contract you are satisfied with.

10) Ok you have that last quote that you think is as good as it gets. Remember your local dealer you met the other day? For a few reasons it is likely your preferred place of sale & ongoing servicing is your local dealer in the local area, convenience being #1 for me, but if not rejig this overall process to suit. Now that you have a bunch of genuine deals in your back pocket, call up (phone) your local/preferred dealer and speak to the person you met and say it is out of respect you are calling, and have them recall you dropping by to discuss the car. Mention you have been speaking to other dealers and inform them of the best deal you have been offered. Be very clear now, openly ask if they can match it . This is a challenge to them and you are really putting them on the spot without any warm up of the process to get there, so be a bit tolerant of strange or unprofessional behaviours or reactions. But remember, you have genuine offers for the same car, with all the extras, so you have nothing to lose if they say no.

11) They may try to compromise, or offer the same car for a little bit more, or same price with less extras etc. Now it's up to you how far you push this, you may not want to rock the boat any further and come to a quick deal. But for me, simply and genuinely ask them why you as a customer would pay more to get less; you have a genuine offer elsewhere for the same car & extras, for a lesser price than being offered now. You as a customer are asking them to match an existing deal, not make a worse one! Now if at this point you are comfortable with it you can say that if they can match it, then you will commit/promise to making a deal today. That may put them at some ease, but you might still need to soothe their fragile ego so remind them they are sales person and you are a customer with a deal, here to make their job easy, the ball's in their court etc. etc. Once you come to an agreement it's just a matter of obtaining, checking, agreeing to and signing the contract and making the deposit. Yes they can email the contract to you so there is zero need to drop visit the dealership until the car is ready to be picked up.

Well that's it folks, I hope it made sense and part of it was of some help to someone. Remember the prices in this thread should act as good targets to aim for or even beat. G'luck,

Best Regards,

RB80

[lordsword Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close lordsword]

Absolute gold advice, well written!

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

I'm not sure how many dollars this process will ultimately save, but I've seen people go round in circles for days trying to knock a few hundred dollars off. A question to consider as you go through this process is do you want to walk away with only a car, or an ongoing relationship with the dealer and why might this matter?

It is possible to get a pretty good price in a day or two without travelling too far. More importantly you may actually maintain some goodwill which will count for something if you own the car over a number of years. A good relationship with the dealer is actually worth something, in particular response and follow-up to warranty issues. I have managed to get a long list of minor and some more major issues fixed by having a good relationship with the dealer, the ones that I can remember over the past 5 years include replaced defective floor mat, fitted modified tail shaft to fix clunk, patch kit fitted to both guards, troubleshooting and fixes on some ECU glitches, replaced sticky seat belt winder and replaced noisy door winder motor.

You could argue that a car should have no defects, wishful thinking in a modern complex car, or you could also say that you should get good service without any focus on the relationship, however the world doesn't work like that. So remember that you reap what you sow and making the dealer bleed may have some long term consequences. And I'm not saying hand over your cash without negotiating, but keep some perspective as you go through the process.

[RB80 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RB80]

I agree with you 100% Krypto. Each person needs to decide for themselves where the line is and how far to push it, use the pricing listed as a guide, and how much their own time is worth chasing it down. I sensed there was maybe $500 left on the table to claim, but I consciously left it there for those reasons you mentioned.

On the flip side, I spent 3-4 years at dealership on a related job, and IMO getting a saleperson mildly upset is not really a concern for people wanting to maintain a healthy relationship with the overall dealership, but JMO. And it goes without saying but that's just one way to go about, I'm not saying it's the best way.

[skirulz Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close skirulz]

Anyone managed to get a 2016 plated prado yet?

[dreamon Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close dreamon]

Do you mean 2017 plated

[skirulz Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close skirulz]

Do you mean 2017 plated

Na mean 2016 plated in 2017 at a discounted price?

[photoprado Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close photoprado]

It's not easy for the dealers or yourself to run a dealer to next dealer negotiation process. The best offer (other than your presentation to your local dealer who has been out of the loop) is the win but you are then pulling the rug out and crashing the sales person onto the floor. Not a pleasant process.

Remember if you have a trade-in the process gets even more complicated.

The last time I decided to personally get the best price for a new car, I waited until the last week of the quarter. I had no trade-in. I sent a fax to a bunch of dealers around the area. My fax stipulated the vehicle and options like colour and mats etc. On the fax, I said that I was unable to take a phone call, but I was about to buy the car and looking for the best price. I included the local dealer who had given us a test drive. I required a reply by fax by no later than the last day of the month and I would be signing a contract on that very day.

Not all dealers responded, but I did get 4 fax responses. On the last day, the local dealer rang me and said he wanted to sell us the car and would match or beat any price. I walked into his office at 2pm with the faxes and he knocked a few hundred off the best price. Deal done.

When I bought the Prado I used a buyer called 'Private Fleet' which did the negotiations and came up with a good price, better than I could get at the local dealers. I don't know if they still do a good job, but it was simple and easy. No trade in though.