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  • Jacking points and jack

    Hi,

    I practised changing a tyre today while in my flat concrete floor garage, not a real success

    I can find a sensible jacking points for a front wheel flat but where the @#$* do you put the jack for a rear tyre flat? In the book it says to put it under the axle housing which is oval shaped but the jack as you all know, has a flat top ! Yes, there is a very shallow groove there but no way do I trust that not to slip when I am in the bush.

    So, what have other people done, is there a metal fitting we can buy that gives the top of the jack a curved surface to hold the axle better. Do I need to buy another jack with a different shaped top ? A different type of jack ?

    The only way I can think of is to put it more towards the diff where it is a bit flatter but it still seems to slope there and would be slippery

    this has been discussed before, but years ago, without any real suggestion as a fix, so what are you using for the rear wheels ?
    ozimacca
    Member
    Last edited by ozimacca; 16-08-2015, 05:05 PM.

  • #2
    Yes jacking on the axle is the right spot.

    Comment


    • #3
      The correct spot for the rear is under the axle, and for the front is under the chassis. I have seen a jack used under the lower control arm but I'm not a fan of this, it is not very stable here.

      There are a few things to changing a tyre that many aren't taught. Safety is the main thing. First thing to do is get the spare out laying on the ground beside the flat and make sure it has air pressure. Once the nuts are cracked and the wheel is off the ground the spare needs to be slid under the vehicle. The spare is now your fail safe if the jack does happen to slip off. Now you can remove the flat tyre. Once it is removed slide it under the car before removing the spare from under the car. Now bolt the spare on, remove the flat, let it down and then check the nuts.

      As you have seen the factory jack is not exactly stable, but buy keeping a wheel under the car at all times if it does slip you should be safe enough. A lot of people who regularly hit the off-road also carry a bit of timber to use as a base plate for the jack, increasing it's stability on rough ground. It also increases the lifting height of the jack, making it high enough for lifting the front.

      Good work on familiarising yourself with the jack and tools, better to work it out in the garage than in the pouring rain on the side of the track with screaming wife/kids inside
      [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
      TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

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      • #4
        If you are near a TradeTools they have a 6t hydraulic Jack for sale for $28. Worth a look. As the others have said under the axle at the back.
        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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        • #5
          I carry two jacks. The Prado one which I wouldn't use unless I had to. I bought a 3000kg hydraulic jack from Autopro and I tend to use this. I also make sure I carry some blocks of wood for both under it and sometimes over it.
          Terry
          Canberra
          2008 Prado 120 D4D and 2010 Jayco Swan Outback

          Comment


          • #6
            I have had the rear wheels off a few times using the standard jack under the diff housing whilst out in the bush. Its not as good as my trolley jack in the shed but it does the job fine IMO.

            I jack the front under the lower control arm, but I made an adaptor for the top of the jack to that slips into a hole so the jack cant slip.

            Cheers Andrew
            [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

            [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

            [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


            [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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            • #7
              A piece of 17mm form work ply approx 250x 250 makes a great base for the jack. I have unfortunately used it a fair bit.
              Max

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by maxh View Post
                A piece of 17mm form work ply approx 250x 250 makes a great base for the jack. I have unfortunately used it a fair bit.
                Max
                +1 I use two pieces glued and screwed together
                Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

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                • #9
                  I am also unhappy about the supplied jack and the lack of a safe position to lift the rear wheels. I have purchased a blow up lift jack which can work off the exhaust or portable compressor. I have used the supplied jack under the diff but it is far too dangerous.

                  Comment

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