Intervolt DCDC battery systems

[Mick015 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mick015]

Hi All,

I am looking to upgrade the REDARC solenoid in the Proudo, to a DCDC system and had the intervolt system suggested.
Anyone ever heard of them, used them or know about them?
I have also looked at the CTEK DC250SA unit, but it only IP65, splash and dust proof $349, the redarc DCDC unit is way more expensive at $660ish and the intervolt is IP67, unit $349 and comes with a small LCD display for voltages etc.

I want mount the unit under the bonnet and so the IP rating maybe an issue??

What's your thoughts or suggestions?

Mick015

[120D4D Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 120D4D]

What model (year/engine) prado do you have Mick?

Why do you want to remove the existing isolator?
Is it not working to your satisfaction?

[Mick015 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mick015]

What model (year/engine) prado do you have Mick?

Why do you want to remove the existing isolator?
Is it not working to your satisfaction?

I have the 3L TD 2004,
The isolator works ok, but as I have the fridge running in the car most of the time, I find that the short runs around town are not providing enough charge (drive) time.
The DCDC charger works so much more efficiently than an old school isolator so it will be the best way to go! It also has solar input for camping trips away.

[Guest Close Guest]

I would have thought that the alternator would deliver more current than a DCDC charger.

[120D4D Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 120D4D]

Short drive times are your issue then, not the isolator.

There is no way around it with either method - you need drive time to charge! Plus, if you're starting with a low Aux, the isolator method is MUCH faster than a 25amp DCDC...

Not sure about the efficiently claim as a 20amp DCDC pulls 25-30amps...

FYI - I have both set-ups in my Prado so can confirm above in the 'real world'.

Why not just add a solar regulator to your existing set-up and see?

[stevensr34 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close stevensr34]

I'd suggest you stump up for a Lithium Iron Phoshpate battery - charges up much quicker then a Lead-adid does, and lasts almost twice as long before reaching a critical discharged level...

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Lithium batteries can charge faster but is unlikely that will happen in the real world as the charger you need
for Lithiums will have a limited output. The charger would need an output of over 40A to be around the same
recharge times as the alternator.

Mick015, as pointed out, if you have decent cable and a reasonable recharge voltage the DCDC chargers you
mentioned will be slower. Do you have a booster diode fitted, what type of battery and where is it mounted?

The intervolt seems to be a reasonable unit but might derate like the others if fitted under bonnet. It also
has a different recharge regime in that if the battery is at say 75% SOC and the unit fires up it runs at a
reduced output to supposedly be kinder to the battery, but this will lengthen recharge times.

Ctek, a lot use them but low output at 20A, most chargers these days are higher than that, also a plastic
case, I had a look at one for someone once, appeared the sealing had failed and water had entered the unit.

Redarc, a lot of money for a very basic unit.

[Duncan271 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Duncan271]

I’ve had the Ctek D250S unit installed under the bonnet since 2013, no issues yet. I originally had an Optima yellowtop D31A (75Ah) as my aux battery, that lasted until recently, now have an Exide leisure deep cycle (97Ah) fitted. I’m now in the process of installing a third battery, a lithium 100Ah, into the cargo area, with the associated redarc LFP1225 unit to do the job of isolation/charging/solar input.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

When I installed my Lithiums I found the Redarc charge voltages were on the high side plus you can't disable the float
setting. At that time EV did not recommend using the Redarc chargers due to the high charge and float issues?

[Brendos 150 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Brendos 150]

Lithium batteries can charge faster but is unlikely that will happen in the real world as the charger you need
for Lithiums will have a limited output. The charger would need an output of over 40A to be around the same
recharge times as the alternator.

Mick015, as pointed out, if you have decent cable and a reasonable recharge voltage the DCDC chargers you
mentioned will be slower. Do you have a booster diode fitted, what type of battery and where is it mounted?

The intervolt seems to be a reasonable unit but might derate like the others if fitted under bonnet. It also
has a different recharge regime in that if the battery is at say 75% SOC and the unit fires up it runs at a
reduced output to supposedly be kinder to the battery, but this will lengthen recharge times.

Ctek, a lot use them but low output at 20A, most chargers these days are higher than that, also a plastic
case, I had a look at one for someone once, appeared the sealing had failed and water had entered the unit.

Redarc, a lot of money for a very basic unit.

Hi Leigh,

sorry to to jump on this thread but just wondering if you have worked out if the voltage booster diode works on the new 2.8 engine.

Thanks

Brendo

[Duncan271 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Duncan271]

When I installed my Lithiums I found the Redarc charge voltages were on the high side plus you can't disable the float
setting. At that time EV did not recommend using the Redarc chargers due to the high charge and float issues?

Hi LeighW, you are correct, Rod from EV said the original Redarcs were incompatible for the reasons you mentioned, so I was a bit stuck on how to keep the lithium healthy in the Prado.

Fast forward about 6 or so months, and Redarc changed the charging characteristics of the LFP1225, I recently emailed Rod and he’s now happy with the Redarc.

Not a cheap option by any means, although managed to get one about $200 under normal retail, so not too bad.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

I went with a unit that allowed for user parameter setting of all functions to future proof it, problem with lithiums
is the recommended charging regime keeps changing, also most long time users of Lithiums don't recommend charging
above 14V, more like 13.8V which I imagine is still well below the charge limit on the Redarc.

Brendos150, no booster is not compatible with the 2.8.

[Brendos 150 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Brendos 150]

I went with a unit that allowed for user parameter setting of all functions to future proof it, problem with lithiums
is the recommended charging regime keeps changing, also most long time users of Lithiums don't recommend charging
above 14V, more like 13.8V which I imagine is still well below the charge limit on the Redarc.

Brendos150, no booster is not compatible with the 2.8.

Thanks leigh

[Mick015 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mick015]

Thanks for your tips and thoughts everyone.
I have purchased the Intervolt unit and will see how it goes. The IP rating is better than the CTEK unit, which allows for installation under the bonnet.
The intervolt unit also allows for solar input, as I have solar panels.....

Will see how it goes, plan to fit the unit in the next week.
Cheers
Mick

[bennyhodge Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close bennyhodge]

Hi Mick, I have been successfully using the intervolt for about 6 months now. Very neat little unit under the bonnet and the in cabin display is handy also. (The unit will also operate without the display unit attached, cool if you don’t want extra clutter on the dash)
Great price and driving the car daily has ensured that the fridge is always cold, if the car isn’t used I get about 48 hours out of the deep cycle battery. I also combine it with a ctek 8 stage battery charger when required or car is not being used. Hope that helps