Lock/Unlock Switch Elsewhere (e.g. either on center console box or in passenger side)

[PradoFanLHD Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close PradoFanLHD]

My vehicle is a 2016 model: KDJ150L-GKAEY, engine: 1KD-FTV.

Does anyone know how to put a rocker switch (similar to the OEM one on the driver's side) elsewhere in the car to allow locking/unlocking from somewhere other than the driver's side only? My front passenger likes to be able to lock the doors, too!

I think it is possible to trace this carefully but perhaps someone has already done it. I could not find it searching, though.

[GeeWhizz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GeeWhizz]

I have provided the attached diagrams from my 150 KDJ Wiring Diagram. It may or may not be the same as your vehicle. I have not played with this part of my vehicle's wiring (mine is a RHD), so I have no experience with its function. If you can identify the pale blue wire in connector KG2-15, I suggest you monitor it with a multimeter and see if its state changes when all doors are shut, engine running and the switch is operated on and off.

Any changes to your vehicle's wiring is at your own risk! I take no responsibility for good or bad outcomes that you may experience.

[GeeWhizz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GeeWhizz]

~ sigh ~

[GeeWhizz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GeeWhizz]

Repeat

[driveway Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close driveway]

Ive done something sort of related , I fitted a waterproof pushbutton switch to a hidden spot under the bumper , so if i ever get stuck without the fob i can unlock the car and get inside .

[PradoFanLHD Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close PradoFanLHD]

Thanks GeeWhizz, though it is very small and not fully legibile for me. Where can I get/buy these diagrams?

[PradoFanLHD Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close PradoFanLHD]

Thanks driveway. It seems your project was strictly for unlocking? What did you find was the behavior of this pale blue wire in connector KG2-15 when the lock/unlock button on the driver's side door was operated?

[PradoFanLHD Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close PradoFanLHD]

I think I found some lengthy wiring PDFs here https://cardiagn.com/toyota-land-cru...ring-diagrams/

sifting through them but so far seems page 3028 of this one has some useful info: https://cardiagn.com/toyota-land-cru...iring-diagram/

[GeeWhizz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GeeWhizz]

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PradoFan - I bought a Prado 150 Workshop Manual on Disc through eBay. While it gives me the information I want, I would not recommend it for the faint hearted. To view it, I have to run Internet Explorer 6, which only runs on Windows XP. Fortunately, I had an old Windows XP License which allowed me to run Win XP (32-bit) under Oracle VM. It was quite an exhausting exercise, but it does work. Unfortunately, the PP forum server compresses images that I upload.

In summary, if you do the following, you should find the light blue wire that comes from the internal driver's door handle controls:
1. Lift the door sill trim panel from the driver's door sill (LHD).
2. Undo the LH kick panel securing nut (large plastic one toward the front of the panel) and remove the kick panel.
3. At the bottom of the plug/socket field revealed, you will see one tall plug (dark cyan coloured in my diagram, above). Above this should be as set of four smaller plugs (dark blue coloured in my diagram, above). KG2 is the lowest of the four plugs.
4. KG2 can have up to 20 wires, 11 in the top row and 9 at the bottom. The 9 in the bottom row are arranged in 3 groups of 3. At one end of the central group of 3 should be a pale blue wire.
5. This pale blue wire connects between the door-mounted switch and the main body ECU.

[PradoFanLHD Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close PradoFanLHD]

Thank you for all the info. The details are useful and I will look into it.

Sounds a bit daunting, but I think now you can run XPMode for free even without using virtualbox (e.g. https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/downlo...-microsoft-si/) I figure you have probably sifted through the folder structure on the cd to see if you can extract any information directly and/or open some files with archive managers.

(1) If one wire connects both the lock/unlock to the ECU that seems to me like it's not simply a matter of having a circuit "close" on the lock/unlock -- it is actually sending a digital signal. Is this right?

(2) Also, to put this rocker switch on the passenger side, it would seem I need to run a wire under the carpet/dashboard, or in a roundabout fashion toward the back through the scuffplates, across somewhere near the 2nd/3rd row of seats, then towards the front again through the scuff plates. Or is there some way to tap into the same pin from the passenger side directly?


Please forgive the amateur questions because so far, my dabbling with car electricals has been to install stuff like stereos, auto-dimming/backup camera rearview mirrors, usb chargers mounted in accessory slots, etc.

[GeeWhizz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GeeWhizz]

My thoughts on your central locking control problem (I'm an Electronic Engineer, not a Toyota Prado electrics expert!)

(1) Yes the diagram that I posted in #2 (on the right) has two switches called "Door Lock Control Switch" that connect earth/ground to the "Control Circuit", which in turn connects to the pale blue wire. The entire pale blue box in the diagram is labelled "J9 Multiplex Network Master Switch Assembly". It could be a digital signal but is more likely to be passive (Eg a couple of different value resistors), since there is no separate power wire to drive a digital source. This is why I originally said "monitor the wire with a multimeter" - I suspect that the multimeter would read about 12v (or possibly 5v) with the switches NOT operated and two different voltages when the rocker switch is moved either way.

(2) I would run the cable through the dashboard - much easier. No, there is no equivalent wiring on the passenger side.

[PradoFanLHD Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close PradoFanLHD]

Did all you said but mine has THREE smaller plugs on top of the long one rather than four. The closest to the long one still does have a pale blue wire, but when I check the DC voltage between the thicker red wire above it goes to 0 V for a while then goes back to a lower voltage. When you say " monitor " the pale blue wire, do you mean use like an oscilloscope? Or do you mean check the voltage and resistance with respect to ground with a multimeter, or something else?

And how should I monitor? I didn't wanna use my ABN clips to puncture the insulation, so I am using a jumper wire (like for a prototyping breadboard) to get into the pin bcs my multimeter probes are too thick to get into the square plastic hole where the wire ends.

[PradoFanLHD Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close PradoFanLHD]

Re-read your message "monitor it with a multimeter and see if its state changes when all doors are shut, engine running and the switch is operated on and off" and realized the doors werent shut and the engine wasn't running. but the switches still work perfectly to lock/unlock -- doesn't this mean I can monitor with doors open, engine off ?

[PradoFanLHD Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close PradoFanLHD]

This is what my wiring looks like, my jumper cable and all.

[GeeWhizz Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GeeWhizz]

Re-read your message "monitor it with a multimeter and see if its state changes when all doors are shut, engine running and the switch is operated on and off" and realized the doors werent shut and the engine wasn't running. but the switches still work perfectly to lock/unlock -- doesn't this mean I can monitor with doors open, engine off ?

It is always best to do a test with the real conditions that the switch will be used in. Locking and/or unlocking the doors when they are open is a pretty unrealistic situation. And the results of a test with the doors open may send you off at a tangent.

It looks like you have done a test of the switch. What were the resulting voltages? If you want to measure the resistance to earth, you would need to isolate all wires to the door (unplug all 3 or 4 plugs and test between the pale blue wire and the earth wire (usually black/wire stripes). I would initially test with a multimeter and see if I could make sense of what I found.