Symo's MY14 GXL Build Thread

[Symo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Symo]

Picked up my 2014 GXL about six weeks ago, D4D Auto. Stock standard.

Mods to do:

1. LED light bar/spots (maybe)
2. ECB Satin Black nudge bar
3. AT Tyres in 55,000kms time I guess
4. Rhino pioneer platform
5. Snorkle

Mods complete:
1. Dual battery system
2. Clearsky awning
3. Long handle shovel holder
4. Minecorp bashplate fitted
5. Firestone Airbags


At Bribie Is


60A Fuses on all positive cables, one near main batt, one between Redarc and aux


D34 which sits at about 12.78v when not in use


70A Breaker, reused the 100A recharge cable from my last car which was boot mounted


Both plugs are 20A Marine, top plug receives 100A cable, the splits with twin 25A cable to lower plug, 20A blade fuse on positive

[dreamon Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close dreamon]

Nice one
Look forward to seeing what else you do

[2impulsiv Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 2impulsiv]

Looking good, you have done a few things that are on my to do list.

How much stuffing around was it to run the cables through to the rear of the vehicle?

Cheers.

[Symo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Symo]

Looking good, you have done a few things that are on my to do list.

How much stuffing around was it to run the cables through to the rear of the vehicle?

Cheers.

From the battery to the cup holders was a 10min job - and in hind site I should have put them there, but instead I pushed some whipper-snipper cord past the rear aircon and pulled the power cable through the inverter plug (which pops off witha screw driver).

There's heaps of room where the cup holders are, so I might change to a fuse block and pull through two smaller power cables.

Currently I have 8b&s cable straight to the top protected by a 70amp breaker (which is too high for the plug) and then splits to the lower plug which has the 20amp blade fuse. I should have a 20amp fuse on the upper plug to protect the plug I think, so that is why I might change to a fuse block.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

There's heaps of room where the cup holders are, so I might change to a fuse block and pull through two smaller power cables.

My fuse block is hidden away in the jack bay, easily accessible via the hatch/cover. I opted for this Baintech unit :-

http://www.baintech.com.au/fuse-bloc...ade-fuse-block

You have your outlets on the other side though, my setup might not work for you.

[2impulsiv Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 2impulsiv]

From the battery to the cup holders was a 10min job - and in hind site I should have put them there, but instead I pushed some whipper-snipper cord past the rear aircon and pulled the power cable through the inverter plug (which pops off witha screw driver).

There's heaps of room where the cup holders are, so I might change to a fuse block and pull through two smaller power cables.

Currently I have 8b&s cable straight to the top protected by a 70amp breaker (which is too high for the plug) and then splits to the lower plug which has the 20amp blade fuse. I should have a 20amp fuse on the upper plug to protect the plug I think, so that is why I might change to a fuse block.

Do you have any images of the location of your wiring and during the cable run??

Cheers

[Symo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Symo]

Do you have any images of the location of your wiring and during the cable run??

Cheers

No but all the trims pop off from the drivers we'll to the back of the rear door, then there is a huge void from there to the cup holder in the third row, then hardly any room, from the cup holder to the outlet, but the outlet has a bit of room. Above and below the 240v. The rear ac is to blame, but I wanted my power on this side. I used whipper snipper cord to poke through with the power tapped on and pulled it through.

[Symo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Symo]

Update, bashplate on, not ironman (too heavy) got the minecorp one on sale (thanks to this forum) $150. Money saved goes towards the airbags.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

Update, bashplate on, not ironman (too heavy) got the minecorp one on sale (thanks to this forum) $150.

How thick is the Minecorp one if it's lighter than the Ironman one? I'm asking as the Ironman one is only 3mm (according to the specs) and mine is already bent like a banana.

[Wagon Man Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wagon Man]

How thick is the Minecorp one if it's lighter than the Ironman one? I'm asking as the Ironman one is only 3mm (according to the specs) and mine is already bent like a banana.

Corine there only 3mm. Better to get one of AMTS.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Prado-200...item259498653b

[Symo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Symo]

How thick is the Minecorp one if it's lighter than the Ironman one? I'm asking as the Ironman one is only 3mm (according to the specs) and mine is already bent like a banana.

4mm they are lighter because it's only the sump, ironman kit includes the transmission. I didn't want 40kg of steel under there for no reason. This is just for the beach.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

4mm they are lighter because it's only the sump, ironman kit includes the transmission.

Ah I see now. I have both plates but we have more rocks than beach out our way.

[Symo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Symo]

Ah I see now. I have both plates but we have more rocks than beach out our way.

Even just driving in mud, I was amazed at how much the factory plate damages and holds grit, stones and sand, at the very least the new vents and shape will self clean, or easily hose out.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

Even just driving in mud, I was amazed at how much the factory plate damages and holds grit, stones and sand, at the very least the new vents and shape will self clean, or easily hose out.

The factory plate is a big dirt scoop, I guess they designed it that way for maximium ventilation. Mine got replaced because it was too bent to be straightened. If you can get the hose in behind the plate that's good, likely it will still need removal occasionally for a thorough clean.

[Symo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Symo]

Update:

Had the airbags in now for 5 weeks, and love them. Fixed the saggy rear end. With 7psi it sits with a 10mm forward rake, and doesn't rise much when the tanks are empty. Slightly firmer ride, but still just as smooth and magic with a heavy load. Went to Fraser for a week and used 20PSI to hold up two fridges three adults and 500kg trailer with around 100kg down weight on the hitch. Still sat with a 10mm forward rake, and rock steady handling well worth it.



The bash plate paid for itself several times. First bottoming out in the soft sand with he trailer pushing the nose in on the big bumps. Then crossing the island to the west side I hit a few roots that looked like they were sticking out about 2 inches but must have been more, solid clang and a shudder as I went over at 40kmh. Only a few scuffs on the plate, no dents. Pretty happy with it and definitely a must do to all Prados that go beyond a dirt road.

I also ran two fridges off the plugs in the rear. A 80L Engle with 80 cans of beer and some bait and a 60L Waeco with more beer and food. While we were driving and over the first night we left them both in the car. By 7am the next morning the D34 was drained to 8v so we moved the 80L under the tarp and pulled out the 120AH spare I had from the Patrol and it ran as a fridge for the next 5 days and the battery was reading 11.8v at that stage, pretty good.



My 60L waeco was turned down to -5 degrees and ran non stop for 24 hours freezing all the fish caught that morning, it maintained a good -3 degrees so I upped the thermostat to -3 degrees and it would cut out at 10.5v at about the 24 hour mark. Full recharge after 30min idle or drive to Cathdral for coffee.