Mark's 95 Series

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

I've finally got around to adding some pics of the engine bay and interior.

The first one is a shot of the engine bay. You can make out the isolator install on the left-hand side and the auxiliary battery on the right (SSB HVT 100 a/h hybrid battery). I have run the cable joining the two batteries along the radiator following the factory wiring loom. At each end is a maxi fuse holder with (I think) a 60 amp fuse. You may also be able to make out the cable coming from the auxiliary positive terminal. This is 6mm wire and goes to a Piranha 4-way fuse box mounted in the jack compartment at the back of the vehicle. Currently I am running the rear cig socket (replaced with a new one) and the merit socket for the fridge, however it gives me the flexibility to be abel to add sockets or powered accessories at a later date without having to rewire things (I'm happy to put up a photo of this if people want). This is fused at the battery by another maxi fuse running a 50 amp fuse.



The second image is a close-up of the isolator (Redarc SBI12) which is super simple and has done a great job. Although you can set this up with a 'linking' function I have avoided it as you need to use much heavier cable. I always have jumper leads with me also so really it avoids over complicating the issue. The alarm is also visible. Anyone know if this is factory (Genuine Toyota) or not? It doesn't work but I was thinking of putting a decent one in there for piece of mind.



The UHF (GME TX3100) is installed where the ashtray used to live. It really is a perfect fit and looks quite neat. From memory I used the mounting screws and holes for the ashtray mount to mount the 3100's bracket, so nothing needed to be drilled. I had the mic mounted to one of the blanks near the antenna height control however on the 3100 the mic is cheap and rattles around a lot over corrugations. If you play with the microphone mounting systems for the higher units you will see that they mount much more firmly. These days I just have it wrapped over the wiper stalk and this works fine.



A shot of the interior, showing the MSA 4x4 canvas seat covers.



The cargo bay, with the wagon liner (specific to the Prado), fridge mounting board with Just Straps Fridge Tie Downs (mounted to the existing holes for the seats) and the merit socket (passenger side just behind the rear seat - flush mount). I have removed all of the hardware for the third row seats to give a bit more room and minimise the chance of damage.

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

On Monday for the long weekend I managed to get out with some mates to Jakem Farm for a bit of a play. The Prado did ok, and I am still getting to know the capability off road on rocky, rutted and loose tracks. I have done plenty of touring but certainly a different kettle of fish pushing your vehicle to its limits.

The photo below shows the result of my (over) confidence. The track was very rocky and loose with some large steps. Visible behind the car is a large boulder that would have measured around 700 long x 300 high x 300 wide. This was right in the middle of the track and I had to run with my left wheels along it. I slipped off and this rock got jammed in the cavity between the chassis rails, fuel tank and gearbox. A bit nerve racking to say the least. The boys slowly built up the ground so that I could get over it and the end result was needing an assisted pull from a JK Wrangler Rubicon.



These tracks have definitely pointed out the gains that a locker or two would provide so I will be considering these moving forward. Also can't wait for the Duelers to wear out so I can get some larger muddies on there.

Nonetheless the next couple of mods are going to be around underbody protection, with a bash plate and heavy duty side steps on the cards.

We are also looking at adding some bits and pieces to make the vehicle more set-up for touring. So far a cargo barrier, flexitank (mounted to cargo barrier), fridge slide with a box over the fridge are looking good.

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

The pic above also shows the tent off the roof. This has improved the handling dramatically with the Bilsteins making it feel surprisingly sporty! For the record the fuel consumption (mixed urban/extra urban) with the lifted suspension, A/T tyres, rack with roof top tent, snorkel and Unifilter averaged 12 L/100km. I'm pretty happy with that. I'll be interested to see how it returns without the tent on there.

Since ownership it has always been between 10.5-12.5 averaged over both tanks regardless of low range/highway/urban etc.

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

Yeah all the pics work , looks good.Agree love my 90 series no intention of buying a newer one the 90's are just right true to the original formula - comfortable cross between a 100 series and a Hilux. Perfect.

Indeed. The only thing that would sway me to a newer one would be the safety aspects (airbags/crumple zones/abs etc) but this comes with a reduction in overall reliability (I feel).

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

So I finally got around to removing the tacky factory side steps. As you can see the passenger side had copped a couple of hits (mainly at Terowie Gorge 4wd Park).



12 bolts later and they were all gone. Initial impression is that it looks to sit a lot higher (I'd say the difference is as big as when the lift was done. Clearance under the sills has increased from 380mm to 480 mm.





I have just paid a deposit to Bar'd Up who do custom fabrications. Going for some sliders similar to those common in the US (look at All-Pro Offroad for ideas). Specs will be: 6mm plate for mounts, 50mm SHS (3mm wall) for legs and main rail, 38mm tube (3mm wall) for braces and outer tube. The finish will be black powder coat. I have also asked for the outer tube to be slightly bent upward which I think will look good. Hopefully I retain most of the ground clearance gained through removing the steps.

[oceanracer Moderated member Find all posts View Profile Close oceanracer]

I look forward to seeing the pic of them,

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

I got around to fitting a couple of things on my Prado over the last month or so.

I'll kick it off with the boost controller. I picked up this VDO unit for $55 delivered off Gumtree, including all hoses, gauge cup and mount - BARGAIN!

I realised pretty quickly that the VDO units have a different air fitting to everyone else so I shot down to Pirtek and the boys made something up for me. Basically consists of a 1/8" tee that they tapped out to suit the VDO fitting. Into the tee goes a 1/8" male nipple that is then tee'd into the red damper to boost controller line.

I also picked up some 4mm vacuum line that I used to make it work.



The hose then snakes back along the brake lines on the firewall before disappearing into the grommet near the brake booster. As the air line is quite thin I ran it inside some Piranha diff breather hose I had lying around.



The hose runs behind the dash up toward the a-pillar. I tapped into the light for the drivers side cig socket for power, and earthed behind the dash. The gauge cup is stuck on using double sided tape. Just need to tidy up the wires and all will be complete.

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

Next up was a TurboTech boost controller. I removed the airbox to turbo pipe for access and then removed the factory compressor to waste gate hose.

A bit of fiddling around to get the new 6.5mm vacuum hose onto the fittings but I got there in the end. Secured with hose clamps to prevent any issues moving forward.



I ran the hoses up to the drivers side fuse box and secured everything with cable ties.



Initial impressions are good, with response particularly anywhere around 2k being greatly improved. Generally, the turbo spools up much quicker and adding a bit more boost (I'm up to 8psi stationary compared to 7) has given a bit more grunt. All in all well worth the $60 cost including vacuum line and hose clamps.

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

Finally, over the last couple of afternoons I installed a Mann & Hummel Provent 200 catch can. Purchased from Asgard Engineering who do a great universal kit with everything included that may be needed for the job.

First step was to select a location to mount it. I ended up choosing the rear drivers side corner of the engine bay to keep it out of the way and within reach of the factory fittings on the side of the engine. I drilled a couple of 10.5mm holes (very difficult due to issues getting the drill in there) and installed rivnuts. I didn't use a tool but rather saw how-to's on YouTube showing how its done. For others doing the same I'd suggest going with flanged rivnuts rather than flush for a neater finish. I put some touchup paint over the top and doesn't look too bad to be honest.



Next was to put together the fittings on the unit. The Asgard Engineering kit comes with nitrile reducers which are more oil resistant than silicon, and neat factory looking hose clamps. Here is the unit semi put together with the mounting hardware and rivnuts off to the side.



The unit mounted in place.



Next I removed the intercooler and removed the factory breather line off the rocker cover. I twisted the rubber elbow 90 to face the catch can and hooked my new hose into it with a straight joiner. The rocker cover fitting is straight and goes toward the catch can. Only enough hose clamps are included for the new fittings, hence the Tridon hose clamps you can see here.



The lines run out under the master cylinder before meeting the catch can. They rub on a couple of things but only lightly. I have secured the hoses to my alarm which pulls them away from the metal brake lines.





Finally here is the drain fitting which runs down the back of the engine bay meeting the chassis rail. I have simply zip tied it out of the way currently and will decide on a more permanent location moving forward. It really depends on how often it will need draining.



I had to re-schedule the sliders so they will go on next weekend. Off to Terowie 4wd park this weekend so will hopefully come back with some photos! Enjoy!

[Nik83 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Nik83]

Love your write up!

Well written and you show some good detail.

Cheers!

Nik

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

Love your write up!

Well written and you show some good detail.

Cheers!

Nik

Thanks for the compliments mate. I have taken so much from this site that it's good to give something back!

On another note there is already some oily residue appearing on the inside of the Provent. I can imagine that it will take a long time for the filter to become saturated enough for oil to begin dripping down the drain line, and I am actually considering just removing the line and using a syringe when this inevitably happens. The filters on these units have a life of approximately 60,000km so it's definitely going to take a while for anything to happen.

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

Well I've got a couple of updates to add to this build. First of all though the boost controller has made a world of difference. The vehicle is far more responsive and in third gear pulls really well. My trip meter was reset so I am unable to get any fuel usage comparisons as yet but I would assume most of the time it is using less. The Provent has a thin film of oil on its inside but the filter is not dark at all. I am not expecting too much oil to be honest so may remove the drain line and just use a syringe to remove.

On Friday I had my new sliders installed by BAR'D UP 4X4 here in Adelaide. Here are some pics:











They look strong enough but we shall see how they fair on the next trip!

I also flushed the fuel system yesterday with the Liquimoly Diesel Purge product. Engine responsiveness seems to have improved and it is not blowing as much smoke so certainly some gains. Here are some photos of the set-up to run it through your system:



Its just some clear hose (approx 8mm ID for supply line, 5mm ID for return) with a cheap one-way filter on the supply line. I simply inserted the hose into the existing lines and secured with the factory hose clips. Insert both hoses into the can (somewhere that it won't tip over ) and run the engine at a variety of different speeds. I also changed out the fuel filter while this was happening so should be good now for a while.

Last weekend I fixed my non-functioning handbrake using this thread as a guide: http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forum...our-hand-brake

The difference is you take all of the slack out of the system at the brake end, and then tension from the lever with a couple of clicks on. This way you can get it really firm and still know that you have two clicks to remove to ensure it won't bind while driving. It will now hold on a 20 degree slope and can lock up the rear wheels while driving. Time will tell though how it goes after the next trip!

I just received a heap of new Genuine spares (radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, heater hoses, upper ball joints, rear brake pads) so will be getting these changed out over the next few weeks. The rear brake pads are almost down to the backing plate and I will be jazzing them up a bit with some VHT gloss black paint!

What a time to be alive!

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

Today I fitted the Brown Davis Front Underbody Guard (RRP $350 + freight). First impressions are that it provides a lot more coverage than the factory plates, including protection for the inner cv's, radiator outlet, radiator itself and power steering rack including sway bar at the rear. Weight is not as great as I thought, though enough to be a bit of a pain to install by yourself. I used a wooden block to lift up the back while I tightened the bolts.

The primary criticism I have is that the oil drain hole is not really in the right spot. It's probably 100mm forward of where it should be (the drain plug sits right above the rear most part of the hole) so doesn't serve any purpose. I will contact BD and see what they think.

I will be replacing the factory bolts with HT items and the oil cover screws with allen bolts..

Here are some pics:

Some comparisons of the stock plates to the new BD unit:





Before:


After:


Before:


After:






All in all I'm pretty happy with it - it would just be nice to see the oil drain hole a bit more functional.

On another note the Prado is going back to Bar'd Up 4x4 tomorrow to have some meat ground of some of the chassis mounts. Unfortunately they stick up a bit high and are rubbing on the body. Hopefully with that fixed all will be good! Cheers

[pradosteve97 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close pradosteve97]

Have you been out yet it looks like you've lost ground clearance in the picture the same with the brackets holding the slider bars have they hit anything yet?
You want some M/T tyres I reckon.

[robe0455 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close robe0455]

Have you been out yet it looks like you've lost ground clearance in the picture the same with the brackets holding the slider bars have they hit anything yet?
You want some M/T tyres I reckon.

I got some measurements to compare. With the factory side steps removed I gained 100cm under the sills. The new ones drop down 75mm from the bottom of the sills so I have gained 25mm over factory steps but a LOT stronger. The square section probably should have been sitting flat but they misinterpreted what I wanted. Being angled though it should slide over rocks quite well. The mounts sit pretty well flush with the chassis and are plenty strong.

As for the bash plate the original allowed for 273mm of clearance under the crossmember, with about 300mm where the sump cutout is. Really though it was all over the shop as the photos show. The new one is much more uniform and has clearance of 258/265/280mm at various points. So yes, I have lost clearance but this unit should slide a lot more easily over obstacles. Also, if I hit a high point the front of the bashplate will contact, where before it was the rearmost section that would contact first. Trying to back up would then put pressure on the front section of the plate trying to rip it off.

So yes, I have lost some clearance. But I have gained a lot of strength and this will help improve confidence on the tracks..

As for tyres, just waiting to wear these down to around 50% and then I will pick up some mud-terrains in a 265/75r16 size. That will help with clearance all round.. Chasing some decent alloys as well..