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Originally posted by 'Dan'
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Any advise to carry this out? -
You can get most of the result by simply popping in a high flow air filter and removing the vortex generator, which pops out with a screw driver.Originally posted by Xerotao View Post
As for the inner cone restriction, doubt there's much extra flow/noise gained removing it, but you can simply use a drill to go around the outside and punch it out then file it smooth or use a grinder with a small disc and a file.
That's what I did and it came out fine.
As mentioned, the gains are up higher, above 3k, so the normal filter/vortex setup is fine powerwise down low.
Coupled with a throttle controller it does make overtaking on the highway better/easier.
I will do a tune next.Comment
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Thanks for your reply. I might just leave the inner cone restriction for now.Originally posted by 'Dan' View Post
I'v aleady removed the vortex generator and using a k&n panel filter with a safari snorkel.Comment
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Spend the 99 bucks and get a Kings throttle controller.Originally posted by Xerotao View Post
You'll be glad you did.
Makes the car much nicer to drive.Comment
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The current kings throttle controller does not have the Prado 120 listed.Originally posted by 'Dan' View Post
Iv enquired them about it and 4wdsupacentre replied saying if its not listed it isnt supported..Comment
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Got some new plugs for the rear power setup.
Currently has 2x Merrit and 1x Cig socket.
I'm removing both Merrit plugs, putting another Cig in and putting a dual port high amp USB socket in instead.
Also bought an Anderson plug for for the fridge as the 12v connection came loose a few times, as cig and merrit style.
Also been doing some more testing and now have economy down to 12.5-12.7L, not bad for the size of car.
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That’s good fuel usuage not far off the diesel !
anderson way to go never had any issues with them.. actually almost to hard to take apart when getting fridge outComment
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If I was driving a diesel this same way it'd be even better, but I no regrets in buying petrol.
Also got my self a good grease gun recently and greased the joints, messy job.Comment
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Mate, did you wire up the rear power set up yourself? I don't know much about electronics but I'm trying to learn to install some items myself.
Does it run straight off the battery or do you have a fuse block somewhere?
Thanks in advance.Comment
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I’d like to give the v6 a go off road ! My sister had a kluger with the same engine and it’s really responsive and has decent power !
Think I have info on my build about wiring; I’ve never done any 12v before heh I’m a bricklayer ! But it’s so simple and easy just make sure have fuses etc to make sure if any issues it will trip and not catch fire etc
Hostile1 really easy and heaps of info online also mate !Comment
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The car came with the rear power setup but 12v is very easy to do and I could have done this no worries. Pics at the bottom.
I set about removing the merrit plugs last night and putting in the extra cig port and USB port but hit a few snags.
Whoever did the wiring had done a shit job of crimping the terminals so a few came off the wires when I removed them from the existing sockets. Not soldered, not even taped, just crimped on. Fixed all that but popped a fuse in the process with the bare wires flopping about - hence the missing fuse in the pic. Have a spare but leaving it out til I sort the USB port.
The USB port I bought is light up one, missed that in the fine print, so all the writing and the ring lights up green, fine for a accessory circuit that gets switched off with the car, but not fine for a dual battery circuit that is permanently on. So I'll swap that out for a non lit version, though I did consider if I could remove the LEDs but often times these types of things are injection moiplded plastics and once they are put together cannot be disassembled without breakage.
Always some extra step... why can't stuff just go smoothly lol
This kit appears to be an ABR Sidewinder kit, google that and you will find a kit with everything you need.
You dont need a fuse block like this, but each circuit back to power should be fused appropriately for the accessory you might run off it. Sometimes the fuse is just part of the loom of the accessory too. 10-15amp will be fine for most things. What you can't see here is the 60amp breaker in the engine bay just before the battery so if whatever is on the anderson plug has an issue, that will catch it (will be fridge for now, but later will be solar input).
https://imgur.com/a/pEkXWJIComment
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So it turns out there's basically nothing that has NO LEDs everything has some sort of lighting to it once connected to power, very annoying (well aside from the $70 option which seems a bit steep to me as a matter of principle).
Bought a micro rocker switch from JayCar, will add that to the circuit so the USB port can be switched off when not in use. Undecided if I pop it behind the plastic panel to hid it or just pop it on the front for easier access.
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Thanks mate, I think I definitely give it a go now.Comment
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Didn't bother with the rocker switch, did a draw test and it was less than 10ma, no shift in voltage from sitting over the weekend. Just leave the dust cap in and I can't see the LED that way.
Also been trying a different route to/from home/work, managed 12.9L this tank, 1115ks from 144L. That includes the daily school pickup in 40 zones etc and 100ks where I had 4 adults and 2 kids on board.
I think it could go a bit lower still, but there's always something to do that throws it out. Either way, better than 14s I was getting when I first got it.
Still makes me laugh putting $215 worth of fuel in the car in one go. The servo people always comment.
Next up will be a tune I think - I have been tyring to be patient and wait for the stock market to give me what I want, but it's been shit so I may just bite the bullet and get the tune anyway. Not expecting better economy, though I might see a small improvement from better lock up in 5th. Just wanting that extra over taking grunt.Comment
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