Little things - Creative DIY modifications

[Strahan Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Strahan]

Great work!

Will now fire up and do mine! :twisted:

[Chuck Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chuck]

Damm more bits to make....

Great work LFaR...

[dirttracker Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close dirttracker]

Guys a way of oversoming some of the difficulty is to use a metal bracket type like Blkmav90. It is fatter but shorter and easier to install and has two straps for security against falling out. I drilled through the floor and made sure that I used some paint on the hole, actually I might have had some goop left over from the cargo barrier install kit, which was used to antirust the holes that had to be drilled in the cargo floor.

[D4D Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D]

Here’s a tip for those of you with IPF lights and that little piece of conduit that annoyingly floats between the light and the plug. If you push the conduit snug up to the rubber grommet on the light and fit a cable tie at the other end (on the cable not conduit), the cable tie is big enough to stop the conduit sliding down the cable all the time

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Not exactly sure where to post this because I don't think it needs a thread of its own and it doesn't really fit with the dozen or so threads on reversing sensors so here I go... Mods feel free to move if appropriate.

My opinion of the reversing sensors is pretty poor and well documented in this forum. At the recent 10,000km service I asked the dealer to try to make the @%@#$% things work reliably.

Tested the sensors after I picked the car up and all seemed ok, didn't realise until I arrived home that my Treg hitch was missing. Hmmm. Found it loose in the back. Couple of calls to dealer and "no the sensors cannot be made work with this hitch on the towbar tongue". I guess you can imagine my responses given the sensors are a $400+ cost and I like to leave the hitch in place.

Anyway did a bit of checking and discovered that the hitch itself (the C shaped body) is ok but the Treg T pin and spring sits so high the sensors detect it. I then swapped the T pin with a category 1 top hitch pin from my tractor (pin is Bareco B74 and most Farm/Tractor places should have one or be able to get it) and lo it all works! The hitch pin sits about 10mm above the hitch and I padded that with some heater hose to stop any rattle much the same as the spring on the T pin. Reversing sensors work fine and as the original pin and the hitch pin are both made from a 1040 grade of steel strength is ok too.

Cost of a new hitch pin is $4.09 so if you are having trouble with your Treg hitch and the reversing sensors it is worth a try.

Michael

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

Here’s a tip for those of you with IPF lights and that little piece of conduit that annoyingly floats between the light and the plug. If you push the conduit snug up to the rubber grommet on the light and fit a cable tie at the other end (on the cable not conduit), the cable tie is big enough to stop the conduit sliding down the cable all the time

Great tip blkmav90! Oh sooo easy too I'll be doing this one soon.

Cheers,
LFaR

[bilobill Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close bilobill]

This is a Message received from a friend:

Tips on Filling your Vehicles

I don't know what you guys are paying for petrol... but here in Durban, we are also paying higher, up to 47.35 per litre. But my line of work is in petroleum for about 31 years now, so here are some tricks to get more of your money's worth for every litre.
Here at the Marian Hill Pipeline, where I work in Durban, we deliver about 4 million litres in a 24-hour period thru the pipeline.
One day is diesel; the next day is jet fuel, and petrol, LRP and Unleaded. We have 34-storage tanks here with a total capacity of 16,800,000 litres.

ONLY BUY OR FILL UP YOUR CAR OR BIKKIE IN THE EARLY MORNING WHEN THE GROUND TEMPERATURE IS STILL COLD.

Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks buried below ground. The colder the ground, the denser the fuel, when it gets warmer petrol expands, so buying in the afternoon or in the evening.... your litre is not exactly a litre.
In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and the temperature of the petrol, diesel and jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products play an important role. A 1degree rise in temperature is a big deal for this business. But the service stations do not have temperature compensation at the pumps.

WHEN YOU'RE FILLING UP, DO NOT SQUEEZE THE TRIGGER OF THE NOZZLE TO A FAST MODE. If you look, you will see that the trigger has three (3) stages: low middle, and high. In slow mode, you should be pumping on low speed, thereby minimizing the vapours that are created, while you are pumping. All hoses at the pump have a vapour return. If you are pumping on the fast rate, some of the liquid that goes to your tank becomes vapour. Those vapours are being sucked up and back into the underground storage tank so you're getting less worth for your money.

ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT TIPS IS TO FILL UP WHEN YOUR TANK IS HALF FULL

The reason for this is, the more fuel you have in your tank, the less air occupying its empty space. Petrol evaporates faster than you can imagine. Petroleum storage tanks have an internal floating roof. This roof serves as zero clearance between the petrol and the atmosphere, so it minimizes the evaporation.
Unlike service stations, here where I work, every truck that we load is temperature compensated, so that every litre is actually the exact amount.

ANOTHER REMINDER, IF THERE IS A FUEL TRUCK PUMPING INTO THE STORAGE TANKS, WHEN YOU STOP TO BUY, DO NOT FILL UP - most likely the petrol/diesel is being stirred up as the fuel is being delivered, and you might pick up some of the dirt that normally settles on the bottom.

Hope, this will help you get the maximum value for your money.
DO SHARE THESE TIPS WITH OTHERS! LET’S SHARE INFORMATION AND BENEFIT ALL, FOR THE BETTER OF MANKIND.
***********************

[spara Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close spara]

Will now fire up and do mine!

Strahan

Nice choice of words when thinking about installing a fire extinguisher :roll: :wink: :wink:

[D4D Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D]

I wasn't happy with the Rhino shovel holder so another set of 'quick fists' to the rescue

[Jacto Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Jacto]

mjrandom, can you please post a pic of your hitch pin?

[FlyingBushPig Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close FlyingBushPig]

Well, I must say I read every single post of this thread - absolutely fantastic stuff you guys! And very VERY BAD people as you've made me very jealous - I'm still waiting to buy my prado in a months time when some money from a house sale comes through, and I'm just itching to do some of these little mods!!

I can't offer much except:

For those who still use paper maps a bit, if you don't have waterproof ones, get them laminated (they will still fold up albeit a bit bulkier) and take a permanent marker with you, you can easily track everywhere you've been and make little important notes for next time - "take LH track", "good photo oppportunity from here" etc. Don't use whiteboard markers, just wipe them off with turps or metho later.

Otherwise, I have quite a few photography mods/tips for you but they probably warrant a specific thread.

Thanks again.

[cjd Member Find all posts View Profile Close cjd]

This might be even too little to mention, but just found that the allen key for the Rhino Roofracks fits nicely in the D4D tool kit where the defunct tool was. At least I should remember where to look now and not have to ask my wife.
Cheers

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Jacto, this is the tractor top hitch pin in place.



And this is the hitch pin compared to the TREG pin.



Hope this helps someone else out there.

[Crammy Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Crammy]

Bought myself a 5L weed sprayer from Mitre 10 ($30) and some CT18 truckwash from Repco. Mix it up and you've got yourself a supply of mud eating wonder spray that gets to all the hard to reach spots under the car. 8)





And it works wonders on the car itself and also on cleaning up wheels, they come up like new and it's "modern paint finish safe". It's the best car wash I've used...

http://www.apchem.com.au/Downloads/C...yer%20Rev1.pdf


Cheers,

Crammy

[D4D Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D]

CT18 is great stuff but it's caustic as and along with the mud will strip any wax/protection off your vehicle and continued use will destroy rubber.