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  • WA - Holland Track

    The Bro-in-law and I had been yakking, for a while, about taking a run along the Holland Track but it had never quite come together. Then we got the opportunity to tag along with Leachy and a few of his mates for a long-weekend trip. It wasn't real hard-core 4 wheeling. There was a bit of mud, a lot of real suspension testing ruts, corrugations, twisty bits, dirt, dust and fast gravel ... but it was mainly an historical journey and a chance to spend a few days with some great company.

    History Lesson
    The WA gold rush really took off in 1892 when discoveries were made at Bailey's Find (Coolgardie) and Hannan's (Kalgoorlie). Prospectors were attracted from all over Australia and the rest of the world with many arriving by steamer at the port of Albany. At the time there was a rail run to Perth but no direct means for prospectors to walk (yep - walk) to the gold fields.

    On April 14 1893 John Holland and his team left Broomehill (about 300 Km south east of Perth) to cut a direct route from Broomehill to the goldfields. Several other men had attempted this task before but all had failed.

    Holland and his companions reached Bayley's Find (Coolgardie) on June 18 1893. They had covered nearly 330 miles of unexplored country in 2 months and 4 days, at that time cutting the longest cart road ever made in one stretch in WA. The route to the Goldfields established direct communications with the south-west of the Colony and shortened the journey by a fortnight or more.

    Much of the South Western portion of the track, from Broomehill to Hyden, has been overtaken by private farming land and the rural road network. Some sections are accessible by 2wd vehicle. In contrast, the bushland of the north eastern section, East Hyden to Coolgardie, remained largely neglected until 1982 when a group of local enthusiasts retraced the route taken by Holland and reestablished many of the Tracks previously impassable sections. This relatively recent work has established an important and remarkable heritage trail that is now accessible to 4WD enthusiasts.

    No fuel or water is available between Hyden and Coolgardie, so you will require a range of 360km plus between those centers. To give you time to explore the rocks and other features along the track, allow at least three days. The trip is probably best tackled in the spring wildflower season. It is recommended that you don't attempt it after rain. You'll have a miserable time getting yourself unbogged and wreck the track for others.

    /Here endeth the lesson

    The convoy consisted of 4 white Prados - an '05 diesel (Steven), 2 D4D's (Leachy and Ian) and my V6, a Diesel Hilux Surf (Marty) and a Suziki Vitarra (Oren).

    The first stop, just out of Hyden, was a visit to Hippo's Yawn and Wave Rock.




    The crew was seeking a bit of shade as they day started to warm up.


    One of the locals enjoying the sunshine.


    This is it. The turnoff and start of the Holland Track.


    Jay checked out this memorial at the beginning of the track.


    Dust, dirt and scrub. Although this is a two way track there are some parts that are quite tight. Other sections have room for you to pull over and let others past. There are also some sections that have no room to move - so if you meet oncoming traffic one of you is going to have to reverse.

    We actually caught up with a couple of groups and, at one stage, there were 20 vehicles heading in one direction and a group of three had pulled over to let us past - they must have thought they were going to be there all day.


    Marty found some mud to play in.


    It did get a bit confusing, at times, with 4 white Prados - 3 of them with roof rack and Sovereign bar. I watched Leachy, one afternoon, walk up to the back of my rig and open the door to put some of his stuff away - apparently he didn't notice the 4000 V6 sticker on the side :lol: - or maybe there's some secret desire to change over from diesel :lol: :lol: :lol:


    Up on top of Mount Holland. It's a rocky climb but nothing really dramatic. The rocks are quite sharp though and you risk damaging a tyre by going too hard.


    This is one of the tight sections. There's really nowhere else to go but forwards or backwards.


    There was the odd joke about bringing everything - including the kitchen sink. Bugger that for a joke - I brought the entire kitchen !


    Here we are gathered at the vermin proof fence. This fence was constructed to keep Eastern Staters out of God's Country - rabbits that is :lol: :lol:


    Half way along the track is the visitor's book - sitting inside the metal toolbox. It's interesting reading the history of people's travels since the track was re-opened.


    The patches of mud were fun - but there was a really hard base underneath and they were drying out quickly. Having a look at the track though - it could get really ugly after a bit of rain and there's a lot of places where there is no other way around. It's for this reason that you're recommended to not travel the track after decent rain - as it would chew it up and make it impassable for others. The Hyden - Norseman Rd sufferes a similar fate. It is frequently used by heavy trucks and if they get caught coming through in the wet the road can be renderred impassable for days, weeks or even months depending on how bad it gets. Signs at each end of the road indicate whether it is open or not - but don't mention the amount of currugations, potholes etc ...

    Here Ian was proving that Grandtreks are an awesome mud tyre.


    These few pics should give you a bit of an idea of the changing nature of the track. As it had dried out we faced a lot of dust - at least that's what the guys in front of me were saying. Personally, I reckon they were trying to come up with an excuse to hide the diesel smoke :lol: Look carefully at these pics - I reckon it's more D4D smoke than dust :lol: :lol: :lol:






    Some fools had cut sick on this salt lake. In the dry these scars may still be there in 10 years time.


    This is Thursday Rock. No - not the little tower of stones - The whole great big slab of rock that everyone is standing on. It's a massive lump of rock and provides an amazing view of the surrounding countryside.


    Just to give you an idea of the varying road surfaces - this one is sharp rock and lots of sharp tree roots - just looking for a tyre to rip.


    A few of the sections were freshly graded and quite wide ...


    .. but there was still the problem of diesel smoke ... :shock: :lol:


    This shot is from inside the cave (at Cave Hill) looking out.


    It's an amazing site inside the cave, it looks like a wax works on a hot day.


    You can easily imagine 30 or 40 people living in here in the past.


    At one stage we got onto a section of mine road - it had been freshly graded but I reckon the grader driver had tied one on the night before and was still off his lolly. Either that or he was one really impressive greenie - and created the road around all the trees instead of through them.


    This salt lake was in better nick - but it had still been visited by some vehicles that had left their mark. It was bone dry - on top - but there was water just under the crust when we looked in some of the wheel marks. Go through the crust and you'd be there a while.


    This lunch stop, on the last day, included an identity crisis - no wonder these guys kept getting into the wrong vehicle. Imagine Leachy's Prado in it's normal day-to-day outfit (where it wears Grandtreks instead of Superman tyres) and these guys would really struggle.


    If you're looking for accomodation with a STAR rating then the Holland Track probably won't be for you. In the spring you really don't need anything special - the Vitarra was at standard clearance and running road tyres - and it got though with no dramas. You could be quite confident taking your standard rig out for a ride - but it's always easier in a bit of a group.

    I must admit, the challenge of taking it on in the wet is interesting, but the damage you could do to the track would stuff it for everyone else for a long, long time.

    Thanks to Leachy and Jen for letting us tag along - we had an awesome time.

    Cheers
    Chippy

  • #2
    Chippy,

    Good report mate.

    Comment


    • #3
      We did the Holland Track a few years ago in a group of about a dozen vehicles. It was a “don’t blink or you’ll miss it” job with the first vehicles leaving each rest stop just as the last ones arrived. :x

      One vehicle was towing a Jayco off road caravan and the roll up annexe got ripped off the side of the van when trying to negotiate the track through a group of trees. They had to complete the rest of the trip with what was left of the annexe inside the vehicle, balanced down the middle.

      The sides of the van were opened up like a can of sardines and the lights and the fold up step got torn off. The owners were novices, and I spent the rest of the trip helping them manoeuvre through the remaining obstacles while those at the head of the pack (read organisers) did their best to complete the track in as short a time as possible. The van was only a few weeks old before the trip. ops:

      But the best part was yet to come. My son jumped out of the vehicle at Victoria Rock and ran off down the track only to end up with a stake right through his big toe. It went in one side and came out the other. :shock:

      It was a mad rush off to Coolgardie to the first aid post and then Kalgoorlie to the hospital to get the stake out. He no longer wears his Japanese safety boots in the bush.

      That night while in a caravan park in Boulder my wife’s appendix decided it was time to start playing up, so it was back to the hospital we went. :cry:

      At least it didn’t rain.

      Comment


      • #4
        Far out Rainman ...

        Originally posted by Rainman
        At least it didn’t rain.
        ... no, it sounds like it poured.

        We met up with a group of 3 just on the Coolgardie side of Sandlewood Rocks - one with a flash new Jayco camper. We spent the next 2 days going through to Coolgardie, out to Burra Rock and Cave Hill before getting back onto the Hyden - Norseman Rd and passing our original entry point on the way home.

        This other group was just emerging from the track - and they must have taken it really slow and careful - there wasn't a mark on the camper - but I can see how easy it would be to make a mess of it. One moment of inattention, or a little too much pace on a bend, and those trees would bite back ... and once you're stuck I reckon you'd need a chainsaw to get out.

        Cheers
        Chippy

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        • #5
          Fantastic trip report chipster. With all those white 120's on one trip it felt like I was there but had I been there with ya'll, there would have been 4 white prado's, 1 silver one and a smelly surf. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
          LES
          [url=http://www.brisbane4wdclub.org/index1.htm]Brisbane 4Wd Club Inc[/url]
          [url=http://www.brisbane4wdclub.org/images/avatars/mystuff.htm]MY STUFF[/url]

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          • #6
            Great trip report Chippy
            You guys still trying to make your cars Champagne .
            I found some great tracks near Wellington dam on the week-end
            A bit extreme for standard cars thou..
            Looking forward to the 20th .
            Russ
            2003 GXL Turbo Diesel,

            Comment


            • #7
              Hey Russ, we tried real hard ...

              ... but we decided that calling a colour champagne was some Toyota Exec's idea of a joke - and a way to sell a car they hadn't washed :lol: :lol: :lol:

              Sorry - couldn't help myself :lol:

              The Vitarra that was with us was also Champagne in colour - at the end of the weekend you wouldn't know he'd been off-road. All of the white ones looked seriously second hand. :cry:

              Cheers
              Chippy

              Comment


              • #8
                Great report Chippy... looks like all the cars held up well.
                Cheers, Leon
                There's no such thing as a wrong turn... it's just the scenic route!
                1998 VX Grande 95... gone, 2008 GXL 120... almost gone... 2017 GXL 150... blank canvas
                Optix Photographix

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                • #9
                  Its now called Sparkling Wine more politically correct.
                  [color=red]GXL D4D AUTO Option pack more to follow & Camprite TL8s[/color] [url=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/Chuck1/prado][img]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/46023.png[/img][/url]

                  Diabolus fecit, ut id facerem!

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for another great trip report Chippy. Wonderful to get a feel for WA and what it has to offer. Did you take the big Waeco?
                    Mike
                    2005 GXL V6 Auto
                    8 years of modifications

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Great report chippy,
                      So you advise not to take any camper trailor or would a pioneer be ok.
                      Did the the cars scratch up or did you use the sticky vinyl covering you talked about in one of your other posts
                      Cheers Moto
                      2007 Grande crystal pearl D4D auto

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hiya Mike - Yep - I took the big Waeco, I also took the entire kitchen from the tailgate of the Trak Shak - that combo made life really easy and we could have stayed out for a month.

                        Mototrim - I would have no hesitation in taking the Trak Shak. There was nothing out there that would have hung it up. It would have just needed a little more thought on some of the tight twisty bits.

                        I would probably start to worry about it if there had been a decent rain - but having seen the track I probably wouldn't go anyway after a decent rain - it would become a quagmire, and any holes I dug would be there for ages as everything dried out. Got a couple of little sap lines - but they buffed out easilly with a little liquid cut and polish.

                        Cheers
                        Chippy

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hey Chippy does that mean that you took the kitchen instead of Andre? Probably a fair swap although it must have been a quiet trip. :wink:
                          Mike
                          2005 GXL V6 Auto
                          8 years of modifications

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Mike
                            Hey Chippy does that mean that you took the kitchen instead of Andre? Probably a fair swap although it must have been a quiet trip. :wink:
                            Absolutely ! Bek was working and Tyler and Andre were hanging out with mates - so it was just Jay and I. Certainly makes for a quieter trip :lol:

                            Cheers
                            Chippy

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                            • #15
                              Thanks for that Chippy, I've got the Holland on my to-do list, it's a good read.
                              Cheers mate..
                              2001 HZJ105 Turbo Cruiser
                              My Stuff [url=http://paulpickford.com/][u]Here[/u][/url] and [url=http://paulpickford.com/prado/][u]Here[/u][/url]

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