Home made drawers under $110. Basic measurments added

[Chippy Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chippy]

They look really neat ... I just wonder if they're strong enough to cope with all the crap they're gonna get from me and the kids ops:

Good idea though ... and well worth having a look at.

If they can handle a bit of load then they would be the best thing I've seen so far.

Cheers
Chippy

[Damien Parker Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Damien Parker]

Now you need to do some drawings with some measurements for us all to copy

I really like your idea Chippy, it would suit my purposes exactly as our furkid rides in the back, i haven't figured out a way to prevent a Labrador's fur to stop shedding so she rides in the back.

[D4D-GXL Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D-GXL]

Point taken Chippy - :idea: - you could possibly reinforce the edges by fitting a "U Channel aluminum edging and drilling the 5mm holes through that. That would certainly provide extra support in this area. I would use 4 for each side. I love the idea you've got, so will keep looking at little more for other alternatives and post them.

Damien - I've got an idea of how to solve your dogs hair issue :idea: if you clip it until your lab is bald, it want drop any hair. That will fix the issue, would be pretty funny seeing a bald Lab running around. Your better half may have to put together a wooly jumper for when it gets cold. :wink:

[Damien Parker Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Damien Parker]

Damien - I've got an idea of how to solve your dogs hair issue :idea: if you clip it until your lab is bald, it want drop any hair. That will fix the issue, would be pretty funny seeing a bald Lab running around. Your better half may have to put together a wooly jumper for when it gets cold. :wink:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I best not be showing her this post...

hehehehe.


With the amount of hair that dog loses over a year i could fleece jumpers for third world countries.. :lol:

[D4D-GXL Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D-GXL]

I know that most dogs loose hair like its going out of fashion, especially after the cooler months. You dont want your Prado getting too many dog hairs lying around.

Cheers mate. :lol: :lol:

Gordon

[plucker Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close plucker]

Chippy,
I must commend you on you novel approach to your drawers in progress.
For me, if I had a seat in the back it would do a few things. Firstly my drunken mates would fight over who gets to sit next to and control the esky, and secondly I would never get the bas***** out. I would also be voted designated driver cause it was my car.
On the carpet thing, I used marine carpet which is about 30 bucks for a meter but it is two meters wide. Use contact glue to stick it down forever.
You will have to allow about 5mm for every side that the carpet touches.
Cheers

[D4D-GXL Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D-GXL]

Just an idea for anyone who is thinking of copying Chippy's drawers. I've been having a bit of a think about securing the drawer (Individual) to the floor. As you know, the dickie seat latches to the floor mount. I believe that there is a fairly easy way to use these floor mounts with some sort of hook-up device in conjunction with the side dickie seat latch.

It's just a thought - I can't work on it yet as the Prado hasn't arrived. I will continue with some research and see if I can come up with something for all. Pics will start to appear after the Prado of course.

Food for thought. :roll: :roll:

Gordo

[Timmay Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Timmay]

Hi Guys,
In relation to the securing of draws to the rear floors i have built draws similar to Chippy's however i have the Fridge to the left of the draw as i dont need the rear seats. I have removed the anchor points for the third row seats by removing the fastening points and utilising the holes they were bolted to. I bought some appropriate bolts and the hole thing is bolted into them on both sides. It is a simple remove job to re install the rear seats if i need them in the future.

Now i have seen Chippys anchor points it has go me thinking of some mods!!!

I need to get off my backside and take some pictures to post soon. Maybe that is a weekend job, given my Waeco is currently cooling some of the Amber fluids!
Timmay

[D4D-GXL Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4D-GXL]

Here is a device that can easily be used to secure the drawers to the floor and allow very quick disconnect wherewhen required. The only issue is its mounting, but as the device is small, it wont protrude into the drawer housing.



Available at http://www.conceptlatch.com.au/

They sell wholesale not retail, so I am not sure if they will sell to us yet. They are in Melbourne so maybe if PP are interested in this device, then we may be able to deal with them, or just use an ABN and order some. There are some other types, but these are the basic types.

Basically, there are a few different types to use and there is absolutely no need to remove the striker bars bolted onto the floor used to secure the dickie seats.

By using the striker bar, if you configure your drawers similar to Chippy's drawers and secure them to the side of the car where the dicky seat connects/disconnects, then by simply dropping the drawers flat onto the floor (presume correct fitment here) then the latch can easily fix itself to the striker bar (only one needs to be used per drawer system.

The only thing that you MUST do prior to dropping your drawers into place, is to connect a pullcord to the latch, otherwise it is locked forever. :cry: The pullcord can either be placed under the drawers to appear out the front, or withing the drawers.

When it comes time to remove the drawers, then its a simple matter of pulling the pullcord to disconnect the striker bar and lift/tilt the drawer system up and disconnect from the side of the dickie seat connect feature


Here is a hinge that supports a fair amount of weight and also holds the side flaps without the need for a lid stay device.

http://www.southco.com/resources/documents/r6.en.pdf

Have fun constructing your drawers.
Gordon

[Ba77hy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ba77hy]

Just an idea for a cheap and quick locking down option.

If your draw has runners and enough room for a rachet strap ( just the Straps thickness) then you could cut two slits into the floor of you setup and tighten with a ratchet strap! the ratchet mech could also sit up in the storage pocket behind the middle row seats!! I still will use Chippys side mount option.

Great work to everyone who has made input into this thread. Very pleased to see the enthusiasm and effort that people are showing and the sharing of ideas is great.

[Chippy Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chippy]

OK ... the drawer system continues to evolve.

Today I made up a drawer for the unit and put together a little diagram with some measurements on it. Feel free to add and scribble.

The drawer just sits in the bottom of the frame for now .. as I still need to be able to use it as I build it. Its also still only screwed together as I'm still experimenting ... especially with the heap of great ideas that flooded in since I posted the first pics ... and I don't want to glue it up until I'm sure.



There is a piece of 25 x 25 mm box attached to each side of the drawer. The plan is to have it run on roller bearings attached to the inside of the frame. A row of 5 or 6 bearings on the bottom edge and a couple on top, near the opening, so that when the drawer is fully open it doesn't tip forward. I've still got to play around with the catch mechanism that stops the drawer from sliding all the way out.

The steel bolts through from the inside of the drawer unit with the nut and washer inside the steel box ... hence the need for some larger holes in the outside of the box



I've lined the bottom and sides with some sound deadening 'boot liner'. Tyler found a piece of it on the beach back on Mother's Day and I've finally found a use for it. Just stops shackles and the like from rattling around in there.



There's a front 'facia' panel that attaches to the front of the drawer ... which provides an ideal surface for carpeting and covers the open space around the steel runners. Until I have a really good look at a catch and handle mechanism I've just used an old caravan cupboard latch and a piece of seatbelt webbing as a handle. Means the whole unit remains fully functional while I play with bits until I get a solution I'm happy with.



It all closes up nice and neat ... bugger all movement .. even over shopping centre speed bumps ... and that will only get better when I get the roller bearings fitted.



Here's the dimensions of the frame unit. The longer base and shorter top allow the middle row seats to still recline.


I've put a small (90 mm) upright in the end of that space to create an extra little storage area in behind the middle row of seats.



Here's the dimensions of the drawer unit itself. There's maybe 1 to 2 mm clearance remaining between the steel runners and the sides of the frame. Its enough to allow the drawer to move freely without rattling around loose.



Its imperative that everything gets cut square and goes together square ... there's nothing worse that putting it all together and finding that the drawer jams at one end because the walls narrow in. I've got a Triton (no .. not a Mitsubishi) Workcentre sat in the shed and spent quite a bit of time squaring it up before cutting anything. Then I used a set of square jointing clamps to hold everything in place before screwing it together.

So far so good.

Cheers
Chippy

[MUMSRIG Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MUMSRIG]

Looking good Chippy!

I've got myself one them you bueat Triton Workbenches as well, only problem is it's always covered in crap and I can't get to it, so out comes the trusty circular saw or the jigsaw and away we go!

Mitch

[Chippy Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chippy]

Well ... I finally got myself a set of roller bearings and fitted them to the sides of the frame.





There's a small stopper block on the bottom right ... to limit the drawers run. I'll eventually wind up replacing this with a sliding window lock .... so the drawer will have a stopper but it will be a simple matter to pull the pin and remove the drawer.



There's a pair of angled blocks up in the back corners ... there's also matching angled blocks on the drawer itself.



When the drawer is pushed fully inward these angled blocks engage and put a little downward pressure on the drawer .. keeping it in contact with the rollers even over rough tracks and corrugations.





Cheers
Chippy

[Big Fella Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Big Fella]

Top stuff Chippy,

You certainly have this topic covered don't you. Looking like a top notch job. Well done. I'll be putting my drawers in next week (ok i'm paying for the 90 series to be modified and shoe horned in). Yeah i'm a cheat. But it's waaaay easier.

[MUMSRIG Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MUMSRIG]

Moving along nicely Chippy....

Too much time on your hands...