front and rear diff oil changes

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

Nulon is great stuff, Ive been using that in mine for the last 40,000k's, its good stuff.
A Tom Thumb pump is handy, a bit slow but works well and is cheap enough.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...ecommendations

[RobboMC Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RobboMC]

front diff oil changes

Nothing wrong with the front diff nut set up, it's people using the wrong tools the wrong way & over tightening is the issue.
A good 10mm hex socket 1/2 drive is required. If its been pre butchered, you need to be creative & a new plug.

Personally I find the 1/2" drive hex socket too big up in there. I have a 90 series but I find a 3/8" drive hex socket is the way to go.
I use a 'breaker bar' not a ratchet, yes the small bar needs some force applied, especially the first time you do it on your own car,
but once you've got the plug out once and put some ant-seize on it comes out easier from then on.

I have to do this job in the next few weeks. I'll try and get a photo to post.

But for anyone DIY or pro, the rule must be to NEVER drain a diff, transfer case or gearbox until you have filler plug out first.
If you drain it and snap, strip, break or otherwise destroy the filler then you are %%$$%^&^ed.

And also personally, if you are saving $000 by doing your own servicing why not purchase the correct different grade of oil for
each of the diffs? It's a few bucks for a 2.5 litre of 80W/90 and you have that extra protection of a wider oil grade if things get hot in there.

[RobboMC Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RobboMC]

10 mm hex socket 3/8" square drive bar

Here's my little baby doing it's thing on my 90 series.

Aim the bar towards the ground and give it a whack to crack the plug open.

Note all 4 wheels are still on the ground doing this, simply awesome little tool.

I had to use the longer 1/2' square drive bar on the drain though as it was much, much tighter.

[RobboMC Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RobboMC]

Hey mate check this hand link out:
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/

Cheers,

Or you could use this one:

http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/

[campbell Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close campbell]

I have just tried to remove the drain plug on the front diff with a 45cm long 3/4" drive break bar and adaptor to a 1/2" drive 10 mm hex socket and can't get it out. I put on a lot of force and the hex nut is starting to deform a bit. I think I will strip it if I try more. I used WD40 and also gave it a few whacks with a hammer but no luck. I could take it to the mechanic but how is he going to get it out? Any suggestions? Now I can't believe Toyota changed fluid at the 40k services.

[gxl_d4d Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close gxl_d4d]

Tap the hex socket all the way into the plug before you try to remove the bolt. If the socket is all the way in, there's a lot less chance you'll damage the bolt head. Attached your breaker bar and use a heavy mallet to tap the end of the breaker bar. The impact should break the drain plug free.

Your mechanic will be able to get it out with an impact wrench. Before you go down this path, if the hex on the drain bolt is even slightly rounded, go to Toyota and get a new drain plug and copper washer rather than trying to use the old one again. When you re-install the new bolt and copper washer, tighten using hand tools to 55Nm. Don't tighten with an impact wrench or you'll be in the same spot next time you need to change the oil.

[Guest Close Guest]

I have just tried to remove the drain plug on the front diff with a 45cm long 3/4" drive break bar and adaptor to a 1/2" drive 10 mm hex socket and can't get it out. I put on a lot of force and the hex nut is starting to deform a bit. I think I will strip it if I try more. I used WD40 and also gave it a few whacks with a hammer but no luck. I could take it to the mechanic but how is he going to get it out? Any suggestions? Now I can't believe Toyota changed fluid at the 40k services.

You need to use a very short 10mm hex. This ensures that the tool does not go off axis which will round the socket.

[campbell Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close campbell]

Thanks amts & gxl_D4D for sharing that advice and I totally agree with you both. Unfortfuantely, I was still not able to remove the drain plug. Instead I pumped (syphoned through the pump after flow started) from the top filler hole and collected 1.4 L of oil. This is the quoted refill volume so it appears I was able to remove almost all of the old oil. Not ideal but will do for now.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Front diff drain plug special tool

You need to use a very short 10mm hex. This ensures that the tool does not go off axis which will round the socket.

Or this special tool will keep the axis perfect.

we do regularly see problems with removing the front diff drain plugs.
Either they have been over tightened, and/or been previously butchered.


You see sometimes they can't put the tool in all the way, no good.
Usually i use a good 10mm hex head socket, add a chisel if needed.

Today I thought I would try Roos nuts, it's a special tool from http://www.tnnengineering.com/.
It worked really well.
It basically converts a10mm hex to a 24mm socket.
Because of the flat surface it helps keep the tool square.

FRONT DIFF DRAIN PLUG








So I put a new plug, I prefer to start fresh as I'm looking after this vehicle now.
The tool was nice n tight, just the way you like it.

I'd say a good investment for d.i.y & technicians alike.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

If you would like a new plug with 24mm like the rear diff.

http://www.ebay.ph/itm/Toyota-Hilux-...YAAOSw--1WqKhs

Or if you are a technician, or your plug looks really bad & want the tool to have best chance of clean removal

http://www.ebay.ph/itm/TOYOTA-HILUX-...gAAOSwGotWqK~C

As usual this gear is top quality Aussie made.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

A very difficult one of many I am presented with.

Way over tightened & rounded.

Step one, give it a hit with tins tool over the top & a socket, then try & open.
The tool is amazing but did not work this time.

Step 2, with sharp chisel, put a good mark in it for grip.
Then get a very big blunt flat chisel & big hammer & use your skills.


Eventually.

New plug

About 55nm & don't let pigs work on your vehicle.

[Borec Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Borec]

IF YOU HAVE ARB AIR LOCKERS.
Arb recommend against using LSD oil in their lockers, they say the additives cause problems with the seal, yes the seal
They use & recommend castrol multitrax. I believe nulon smooth shift 75w 90 would be good too.

Reopening this post, as I was just about to purchase diff oil, and now I am all confused.
I have air lockers front and back, so I do not want LS oil. So what do I want? I was thinking that synthetic is better then mineral, however I looked at Nulon site and they recommend for a diff
Premium Mineral 80W-90 Gear box and Diff oil
For trasnfer case they recomend
They also recommend Full Synthetic 75W-90 manual gearbox and trans-axle oil for the transfer case.
Since both of these are for manual gear box, can I put the synthetic oil into the diffs? Seems like a better oil, but is it what my diff needs? Seems like manual gear box and diff oils are the same, right?

Or would you recommend some other oil all together for the diffs (front and back)

When I asked at ARB, they told me , just any diff oil as long as it is not LS.


Thanks

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

Nulon 75W90 Full Synthetic is good stuff. No issues using it, in fact its great stuff.
Ive used it all around, which reminds me, that was 50,000 k's ago!

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

Synthetic is a waste of money generally. Use a mineral gear oil for the diffs and that needs to be a HP or EP (extreme pressure) oil. The transfer case can take the same oil as the gearbox (GL-5 non EP/HP)
The front and rear diffs have hypoid gears which need the HP or EP oils.