Torque Convertor lock up instal

[no-grey nomad]

Haha yep right module even made sure of that, says A/T on the side.

What about this - surely it's in the same place even if it is a different colour. If you remember or have it written down, what # pin it is on the 3rd plug (eg looking at the plug as it's plugged in, 3rd wire from the top, right hand side). Maybe they ran out of pink/blue and substituted a different colour.

Thanks for all your help with this!

Dan.

[Davis Dieso]

Well, back to the book Dan.
I've found the wires you describe. Top plugs Pink/Blue wire goes to ABS and Suspension control . 2nd plug down Pink/Blue wire goes to the ABS module, but only for the 4Cyl 3RZ-FE engine. 4th plug (bottom) Pink/Blue wire goes to the EGR cut off solenoid on the engine. Which only leaves the 3rd plug (which I used), so if you dont have the Pink/Blue wire in that 3rd plug then thats totally baffling. I can't see how it would be different just between models (GXL/Grande etc). No mention of that in the book. Don't shoot me for this, but are you sure you have the right module? Its just to the left of the glove box.
You will most certainly know when the torque convertor is locked up. No question. Jabbing the accelerator gives no real rise in the revs (like a manual) as when not locked the revs will rise.
See how you go,
Cheers Jamie

[no-grey nomad]

All I can think is that Grande and GXL wiring is different?

[no-grey nomad]

G'day again Jamie. Sorry about the confusion with wires - yes I meant the Pink/blue wire. However, checking again tonight, there is a pink/blue wire in the 1st, 2nd and 4th plug. The 3rd plug is the only one without the pink/blue!! bloody heck. So I tried the 4th plug pink/blue wire and this time applying 12v I hear another solenoid moving however this time it's much quieter. I think the other solenoid may have been the starter motor judging by its sound. So test drive and I think I can feel something different when applying power, sounds like it just applies power straight without spinning up like usual but might just be a placebo playing with my head. I stopped with the switch engaged but the car didn't stall and I'm thinking if the auto changed down gears/goes to N when decelerating it will not be in gear to stall - what are your thoughts on this?

So definitely no pink/blue on 3rd plug in my car so I'm stuffed if I can figure this out without the ECU wire diagram.

Cheers
Dan.

[Davis Dieso]

Just having a look through my book again Dan (to refresh the memory!!) . Your vehicle should be exactly the same as mine. Looking at my photo of that plug (and going by my memory) it is the 3rd plug down from the top and its the PINK/BLUE trace wire. The PINK/WHITE wire you describe in the second plug I cannot find what that does?? But it isn't the lock up..
Have another look at that 3rd (from the top) plug, PINK/BLUE wire. Has to be there?? It was a bit hard to see. Unplug it and move it around.
Sounds like you've got the rest sussed though.
Cheers, Jamie

[no-grey nomad]

Ah jeez now I'm bloody confused! I have a 2003 1KZ diesel. I have 4 plugs. It must have a lock up because the bloody AT overheats at all the right times. From the look of your photo's you have wired into the 2nd plug but your wording says 3rd plug? I split the pink wire/white trace from 2nd plug and when I hit it with 12v I can hear a solenoid activate which is promising. When I drive it feels no different, even just 12v in and coming to a stop after getting out of first gear the car still idles and doesn't stall which tells me it isn't working properly.

My 3rd plug has no pin/white wire. AAahhh, quite frustrating...

Let me know if you have any further advice?

Cheers
Dan.

[Davis Dieso]

Hi Dan,
Is yours the V6 4lt? If so from 8/2004 it has a different PCM (ECU for trans). It has 5 plugs instead of 4. The wiring is different also. The wires you will be looking for are Green/red (trace) which is 12v positive. And Yellow/red (trace) which is earth switched. It is this wire that will do the lock up, but through earth. They will be in the second plug from the top or bottom.Mine is fed 12v power to lock up, this would be earthed to lock up.
NOW if it is up to 7-2004 it shows it doesn't have a lock up convertor. Which is a bit puzzling?? If someone has more info on this, please report.
Let me know how you get on Dan?
Cheers, Jamie

[Davis Dieso]

Damn Foxo, Rapidshare have withdrawn there free "standard" offering as of 1-7-14, can you believe? I'll have to do something different. In the meantime, I can email,mail all the details to you if you don't mind giving your address??

Cheers, Jamie

[no-grey nomad]

I have wired up all my solenoids and are clicking in and out at the right times, however my ECU looks a little different to yours, I have no pink cable with white tracer on the 3rd group of plugs. Same year prado but GXL. I couldn't imagine the wiring colours would be different? Does anyone know of an ECU wiring diagram I can borrow to find the correct cable?

Cheers
Dan.

[Foxo]

Hi Davis Dieso,

I've got a 2003 1KZ-TE auto and I would like to try and fit your lock-up set up but I can't download your info sheet. rapidshare is just dormant. Is there any other way you could post the info, both my computer and I are pretty slow at this business.

Hope you can help,
Thanks,
Foxo.

[Davis Dieso]

No Dan, the momentary on switch only activates the "hold in relay" which in effect acts like keeping it switched on. It stays that way until you touch the brake pedal to de-activate it.
So to activate the "lock up", just press the switch once, its now locked up. Thats it, touch the brake pedal to release, done.
If you wanted you could have an ON/OFF switch, switch it on/off yourself. I wouldn't go this way myself. Its a natural reaction to use the brake pedal. After using it for a while now, my experience shows what I have works brilliantly.
Cheers, Jamie

[no-grey nomad]

Alright I got it working after 3 different devices and 2 different Web browsers! One question, using a momentary push switch, will triggering the brakes physically pop the switch back out or will you have to manually press the switch off and on again to reset? This is the only thing I'm concerned about with this unit. Cheers
Dan.

[macaroon1]

Works fine for me still. Follow the instructions again and see how you go.

[no-grey nomad]

Anyone got a copy of this diagram? The link from the OP is broken 404 error. I emailed him but not sure how often Jamie is around to reply so thought I'd check with you good folk.

Cheers.

[Davis Dieso]

One example, I was towing a car trailer (with a suzuki Sierra on it) and found the torque converter wasn't locked the majority of the time, unless I kept the speed above 105. Revs were around 2200rpm at 100, instead of sitting just under 2000. still drove great, towed great, but trying to take it easy towing was actually harder on the transmission. I Don't like the idea of locking it into 4th, revs jump by 500 rpm

The Diesel engine is a torquey little bugger from right down low, there is no need for torque converter slip in those conditions, the engine can handle it easy. If I could manually select to lock it, problem solved. Not sure where the petrol makes it's peak power, but I think it would benefit in the same conditions.

The other advantage would be 4wd downhill descents, low range, 1st gear, torque converter locked would give great crawl control. But the brake pedal lockout could be an issue. James would it be possible to incorporate a low range lockout of the brake pedal disengage relay (or an over ride of some sort)?

Spot on MRW82. I'll investigate the low range 1st scenario and let you know what I find. The convertor won't lock in 1st high. Something to do with the valve body I prosume. "Wholesale Automatic Transmissions" in VIC do a different valve body that overcomes that problem (and fixes other ones too).
Yes it would be possible to have a low range (no brake cut out) relay added to stop cancellation. I can provide more detail if you require on this one.
Cheers, Jamie