Step by Step TD 120 Dual Battery Instal with pics. Finished

[Chippy Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chippy]

Lookin' flash as Michael Jackson there Mitch

Love the circuit breaker and bracket.

How come there's no pink frangipani flower dotting the i on the Pradopoint sticker ?? :lol: :lol: :wink:

Cheers
Chippy

[Fungi2003 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Fungi2003]

Nice setup mate, I'm looking at doing a similar setup myself. Just a couple of questions:
* why did you chose the RAC battery? I'm still not sure what kind of battery I should install (AGM, deep cycle or standard lead acid),
* where did you get the circuit breaker from?

[Chuck Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chuck]

Went down to Jaycar and picked up some 4 gauge cable, terminals and a 60amp circuit breaker.


The dual 60amp circuit breaker and bracket installed.


The circuit breaker has a volt meter inbuilt as well as a Blue LED to tell if the circuit is live.

Another Chippy :lol: :lol: :lol:

[MUMSRIG Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MUMSRIG]

How come there's no pink frangipani flower dotting the i on the Pradopoint sticker ?? :lol: :lol: :wink:
Cheers
Chippy

Don't give Tam anymore ideas Chippy!!

* why did you chose the RAC battery? I'm still not sure what kind of battery I should install (AGM, deep cycle or standard lead acid),
* where did you get the circuit breaker from?

Fungi, the circuit breaker was from Jaycar Electronics http://www.jaycarelectronics.com and the reason I used the RAC battery is because it's not what you know it's who you know!!! You will definately want to buy a AGM or Deepcycle for your second battery if running a fridge....

Another Chippy :lol: :lol: :lol:

As Chippy would say; "I resemble that remark!" :lol:

Mitch

[Fungi2003 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Fungi2003]

Just another few questions MUMSRIG:

* I found the circuit breaker (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... &SUBCATID=), did you end up getting SZ-6002 (Accepts: 1 x 0 gauge in 1 x 0 gauge out) or the SZ-6004 (Accepts: 3 x 4 gauge in 2 x 8gauge out)

* Just to confirm, is this how you wired up the circuit breaker?
<rear socket>----------------<circuit breaker>---------------------<aux battery>

* Is the use of 4 gauge wire to the rear sufficient for the rear socket? People keep telling me to a use 6mm wire,

* What gauge wire is used between the batteries and the isolator? I assume the same gauge used on the negative terminal?

* Do you know is the battery connections were soldered or just crimped?

* How hard was it to pull the wire through to the back? How long did it take to complete?

* Any recommendation on a brand of lead acid battery (100Ah)?

Sorry about all of the questions mate, I'll be installing the dual battery system during the easter break and want to make sure all done well. As you probably found out I rarely do work on vehicles.

[MUMSRIG Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MUMSRIG]

Just another few questions MUMSRIG:

* I found the circuit breaker (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... &SUBCATID=), did you end up getting SZ-6002 (Accepts: 1 x 0 gauge in 1 x 0 gauge out) or the SZ-6004 (Accepts: 3 x 4 gauge in 2 x 8gauge out)

* Just to confirm, is this how you wired up the circuit breaker?
<rear socket>----------------<circuit breaker>---------------------<aux battery>

* Is the use of 4 gauge wire to the rear sufficient for the rear socket? People keep telling me to a use 6mm wire,

* What gauge wire is used between the batteries and the isolator? I assume the same gauge used on the negative terminal?

* Do you know is the battery connections were soldered or just crimped?

* How hard was it to pull the wire through to the back? How long did it take to complete?

* Any recommendation on a brand of lead acid battery (100Ah)?

Sorry about all of the questions mate, I'll be installing the dual battery system during the easter break and want to make sure all done well. As you probably found out I rarely do work on vehicles.

4 gauge is more than sufficient as the lower the number, the thicker the cable is and the more current it will be capable of handling i.e 5mm wire is 4 gauge from memory?..

Gauge Millimeters Inches
18g 1.0 mm 5/127"
16g 1.2 mm 3/64"
14g 1.6 mm 1/16"
12g 2 mm 5/64"
10g 2.4 mm 3/32"
8g 3.2 mm 1/8"
6g 4 mm 5/32"
4g 5 mm 3/16"
2g 6 mm 1/4"
0g 8 mm 5/16"
00g 10 mm 3/8"

Remember these measurments are not including the sheath, they are the core only.

<rear socket>----------------<circuit breaker>---------------------<aux battery> This is correct. You do not want to have a cable from the battery unfused if it is more than 30cm's in length.

I utilized 4 gauge all the way through and simply crimped it with a eyelet crimp terminal and attached it to the battery clamp.

The hardest part of the install is getting it through the firewall grommet. I used a metal pencil scribe and pierced the grommet feeding the cable through at the same time. Preferably do this from inside out as the shortest amount of cable is in the engine bay. Run it along under the sill trims and pop your rear quarter trim out just enough to feed the cable to the cig lighter socket. You will also need a bit of 4 gauge preferably in black for your earth. Once again I crimped the eyelet terminal on and blted it to the 3rd row seat mounting mechanism.

All up it took less than an hour including bending the bracket up.

No particular brand recomendation from me. Just find one with a good warranty and high Reserve Amps for longer time frame before becoming flat.

One of the other reasons I used the RAC Battery was that I've been installing them for over 5 years and very rarely did I ever come across one that was faulty, usually driver fault.

Have fun!


Mitch

[MUMSRIG Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MUMSRIG]

Fungi,

Don't forget that the circuit breaker will need to be earthed as well to allow for the LED readout to work. There is a earthing point on one of the mounting holes. Don't over tighten the assembly though as it may be prone to cracking.

Mitch

[Fungi2003 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Fungi2003]

Fungi,

Don't forget that the circuit breaker will need to be earthed as well to allow for the LED readout to work. There is a earthing point on one of the mounting holes. Don't over tighten the assembly though as it may be prone to cracking.

Mitch

Thanks for the valuable information mate, much appreciated! Just a few more questions:
* Any reason why you earthed the socket over at the 3rd row seat rather than closer to the battery (i.e. same position where the negative battery terminal is terminated)? Do you think there is any difference with voltage loss securing it closer to the battery?
* Why have you chosen a 60AMP circuit breaker?
* How did you secure the redarc smart solenoid and circuit breaker mount to the engine bay (drill holes and use rivet screws?)?
* Do you think there are any issues with the circuit breaker being exposed to water?

[Jacto Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Jacto]

Just had my first battery failure

Checking the systems out before our easter trip to Barrington and noticed the fridge wouldn't start once the engine was shut down, investigated further and did some tests and diagnosed the second battery must be crook. Now this battery was a new (less than 2 months old) Century N70ZZH heavy duty and when checked by the auto lec, it had two dead cells.

Here is the interesting part, I had information that the SES had been suffering battery failures when using deep cycle batteries for winching operations and that is why I bought a heavy duty 4X4 battery instead of deep cycle.
When I asked for warranty on the dead battery I was advised that Century would probably not pay a warranty because it was being used for an incorrect application (fridge + winch) and that I should be using a deep cycle. I explained that their people knwe what it was to be used for when I was doing the install and they coughed up and did a straight swap for a deep cycle.
I guess Caveat emptor (buyer beware) rules here as you could end up being in deep poop when you least expect it ops:

[MUMSRIG Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MUMSRIG]

Fungi,

Don't forget that the circuit breaker will need to be earthed as well to allow for the LED readout to work. There is a earthing point on one of the mounting holes. Don't over tighten the assembly though as it may be prone to cracking.

Mitch

Thanks for the valuable information mate, much appreciated! Just a few more questions:
* Any reason why you earthed the socket over at the 3rd row seat rather than closer to the battery (i.e. same position where the negative battery terminal is terminated)? Do you think there is any difference with voltage loss securing it closer to the battery?
* Why have you chosen a 60AMP circuit breaker?
* How did you secure the redarc smart solenoid and circuit breaker mount to the engine bay (drill holes and use rivet screws?)?
* Do you think there are any issues with the circuit breaker being exposed to water?

Oops, I'm a bit late on the reply...

An earth is an earth... As long as it is a good clean grounding point then the closer (shorter the cable) the better it is.

The circuit breaker was chosen due to it having to breakers on it so if I exceed the rated amperage I can always use the other side aswell and 60 Amps was more than enough for my requirements.

There was already a hole in the ineer gaurd that was used and another that was drilled and a rivet screw was used.

I would dare say that if the breaker was drowned it wouldn't appreciate it! Like all electrical components, they don't like water!! I wouldn't suggest drowning it hence the reason I've mounted it as high as possible in the bay and it can be easily WD40'd if going through a river crossing.

Mitch

[Wags Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wags]

Re: Step by Step TD 120 Dual Battery Instal with pics. Finished

Gday Mumsrig,

I'm usually not one to dig up old posts, but firstly I'd like to thank you for the detailed threads (drawer system and dual batt install). This has prompted me to get off my butt and have a go at this work myself rather than pay someone else to do the same thing.

Cheers and thanks,

Wags

[learner52 Member Find all posts View Profile Close learner52]

Re: Step by Step TD 120 Dual Battery Instal with pics. Finished

Mitch

Brilliant Battery install, makes me think I might be able to do most of it myself now.
Love the amount of pics so that I can put the laptop next to the car and keep checking the pics.

Dont suppose you have any more pics of the cabling to the rear etc ????
Where it went thru and what cabling joined the battery and the circuit breaker.

Amazing site this one, nothing is impossible for us novices now with all the wealth of information on here.

Looking forward to the next WA trip for sure, wish I was going on the prospecting one but alas there is a problem called work.

Pete

[marcus Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close marcus]

Re: Step by Step TD 120 Dual Battery Instal with pics. Finished

:idea: Just a note for those on a budget that you do not need to spend $120 on a 2nd battery tray. Head into Battery World and a universal tray can be purchased for about $20 which is still heavy duty and will fit straight in with a spacer under the drivers outer end replacing the windscreen washer support bolt with a nut and bolt, all will be revealed on fitting! then a $8.00 clamp can be fitted remembering to fit locknuts not wingnuts. :lol:

[MickL Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close MickL]

Re: Step by Step TD 120 Dual Battery Instal with pics. Finished

Just a note for those on a budget that you do not need to spend $120 on a 2nd battery tray. Head into Battery World and a universal tray can be purchased for about $20 which is still heavy duty and will fit straight in with a spacer under the drivers outer end replacing the windscreen washer support bolt with a nut and bolt, all will be revealed on fitting! then a $8.00 clamp can be fitted remembering to fit locknuts not wingnuts.

It's generally accepted amongst members of this forum and others that a premium tray like the "Piranha" one should be used if you want to avoid the issue of cracking in the mount/panel work.

I'd do some more research if I was you, there have been many dual battery installs so it's all been tried before; cheap now might cost you more in the near future.....

Mick

[karrathaprado2 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close karrathaprado2]

Re: Step by Step TD 120 Dual Battery Instal with pics. Finished

Pay me now or really pay me later. :shock: Depending on the amount hard driving you will get the cheapy installation to crack and if you do not catch it in time you will be in for a world of hurt with the panel beaters to repair and then end up spending the $120 + the repairs...go with the purpose made one and you will have no worries if installed correctly. :wink: