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  • #16
    I can't remember what my ARB compressor has, but i think its in the range of 35A.

    Someone else would have to confirm?[/QUOTE]

    40A, I have mine installed in the rear pocket of the draw system
    It's hooked up to 16mm2 cable is that heavy enough Matty?
    Yep.....I have a Prado just like you
    Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China
    My Rig Build Towing Camprite TL8s (if ya wanna look PM me)

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    • #17
      Lorenzo,

      I have just wired up my 2nd battery myself. I have a pocket in the rear on the LHS that has a removeable cover, i installed the socket there so it can not be seen when fridge not in use. I have also rewired the socket on the RHS over to the 2nd battery. I ran a cable was rated at about 140amp for this.

      I have also wired up 3x 2-way radios (I am in the NSW RFS), fridge, 2nd socket, compressor and some additional sockets where the centre seats are (this is to keep the kids quiet by letting them charge their games up without annoying the adults). this took me about a day to do. I ran the cable along the top of the LHS chassie rail. I have installed a Redarc isolator next to the main battery, the 2nd battery was installed behind the driver side headlight on a custom tray (I have a 4cyl 120 series petrol prado and no one makes a battery tray for this model). I will be installing a Redarc BCDC1220 charger tonight. This will give an extra charge to the 2nd battery and help charge it quicker.
      2003 GX Prado - Silver, 2.7ltr EFI motor, 4sp Auto, Hayman & Reese Tow-bar, Roof Console, Redarc Dual Battery system, Poly Air Bag system. Stock as a rock otherwise.

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      • #18
        I have literally just finished a few days of wiring in a second battery (mines a 150), I ran 4 Guage Positive & Negative between both batteries (neg to neg, not using the body for earth) and a Redarc SBI12. I ran the 4 Guage in seperate flexible conduits (ADR mandates all runs longer than 300mm need to be double insulated), I have also wired in the Override switch on the redarc to a switch in the dash.

        I then ran Twinaux cable down under the door sills, into the cargo area, with a 30A fuse in the engine bay. I ran the Twinaux into a fuse block with seperate fuses for each plug. I then installed a Engel plug and a Hella plug, im planning on putting 2x 12v plugs in as well, however im waiting for them come in stock.

        Additionally I have also run another twinaux cable under the car to the towbar to put an Anderson plug, im waiting on a 50A CB to come in stock before i wire up the Anderson. These are all connected straight off the second battery, and all wires return earth to the second battery terminal, not the body of the car. This seemed to be the most consistent advice i received from anyone re doing my own wiring.

        Here is the fuseblock/distroblock im using in the rear of the prado, the great thing is i can fuse individual sockets at lower rating for more safety, and its easier to add more sockets at a later date.
        My Rig: 150 GXL D4D, Tough Dog adjustable suspension with 60mm lift, Polyair bags, ARB Winch Bar, Warn Winch with Dynamica Rope, Outback Ideas recovery points, GME UHF, HID Low/High Beam, Lightforce Genesis HID Spots, Dual Battery Setup with rear power outlets, ARB air compressor in engine bay, ~30L Watertank mounted behind fueltank.

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        • #19
          Can anyone tell me the difference between the Piranha 140 and the Redarc SBI12?

          I'm yet to work out exactly what the advantages are between a contact based isolator and an electronic one.

          What are the advantages/disadvantages of both? I'm simply running a fridge and no caravan, trailer etc. etc. I won't have a million things attached to it. I've read somewhere that the SBI12 doesn't like dealing with a crank type battery and a deep cycle battery in the same circuit while piranha doesn't mind... any more input?
          Loz - 2007 GXL D4D Auto White
          ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, 2" OME Lift, ARB On-Board Air, Safari Snorkel, GME TX3440 UHF, GME AE4018K1 antenna, Redarc/Exide ED5 dual battery system, ARB 47L fridge, Cooper AT3's 265/70/17, LeighW's voltage booster, Lightforce 240XGT's, Outback Solutions Drawer Systems
          [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?20863-Loz-s-120-GXL-D4D-Prado&highlight=loz%27s]My Rig Build-Up[/url]

          Comment


          • #20
            The redarc is a contactor (relay with high current carrying contacts) which is controlled by a voltage sensing circuity. The electronic isolators use transistors (usually MOSFETS) as the switching device. Conctactors can tollerate large current surges that would occur when cranking from the auxiliary battery. Electronic isolators generally won't handle surges. The transistors inside may be rated to but the amount of heat they'll give off will cause them to fail. The other problem is the solder on the printed circuit boards will start to melt. Transistors are made with bolted terminals but not in the size that the typical battery isolator box is.
            2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Ryzz View Post

              Here is the fuseblock/distroblock im using in the rear of the prado, the great thing is i can fuse individual sockets at lower rating for more safety, and its easier to add more sockets at a later date.
              Hey Ryzz, do you have a picture on how and where you mounted the fuseblock? I have the same thing but an struggling on where to mount it.
              [B]Tasmania 2015 GTG Committee Member[/B] 2005 Prado Pilbara, Sovereign Bar, Driver & passenger weathershields, UHF TX3220, Spare wheel spaces, Lifestyle rack, Genuine front & midrow seatcovers, Genuine front & midrow rubber floor mats, ARB 47 litre fridge/freezer, Hilux washer jets, BF Goodridge A/T, Radiator protection plate, Dual battery tray and isolator, ARB 2.5m awning, Rhino heavy duty areo bars, MSA rear wheel bin, MAXTRAX

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by VKPrado View Post
                Hey Ryzz, do you have a picture on how and where you mounted the fuseblock? I have the same thing but an struggling on where to mount it.
                I went to bunnings and got a 3mm mdf offcut and double sided taped to that after (very doggedly) cutting to size. I then mounted this in the compartment above the bottle jack. Hope this helps, check out Abr-sidewinder's 150 thread on his rear power sockets to get an idea. I couldn't mount mine without the mdf as there wasn't room for the wires to come out the side.
                My Rig: 150 GXL D4D, Tough Dog adjustable suspension with 60mm lift, Polyair bags, ARB Winch Bar, Warn Winch with Dynamica Rope, Outback Ideas recovery points, GME UHF, HID Low/High Beam, Lightforce Genesis HID Spots, Dual Battery Setup with rear power outlets, ARB air compressor in engine bay, ~30L Watertank mounted behind fueltank.

                Comment


                • #23
                  VKPrado, I have one mounted in my buildup under the bonnet. I am planning to put one in the spare space at the back also. I will use the lhs cover to put outlets along the top half and the fuse box on the inner side on the bottom half. Also thinking of throwing in an inverter into the gap behind tat flap. have a drawing but need t load it up AFTER discussing with my auto electrician (MATT)
                  [B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
                  [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Ryzz View Post

                    Here is the fuseblock/distroblock im using in the rear of the prado, the great thing is i can fuse individual sockets at lower rating for more safety, and its easier to add more sockets at a later date.
                    Where did you buy this one?
                    [B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
                    [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by MidLifeCrisis View Post
                      Where did you buy this one?
                      Whitworth marine, Check the link to the image to find the online store. It's rated at 30a draw then fuse individual sockets with blade fuses you buy at any servo.
                      My Rig: 150 GXL D4D, Tough Dog adjustable suspension with 60mm lift, Polyair bags, ARB Winch Bar, Warn Winch with Dynamica Rope, Outback Ideas recovery points, GME UHF, HID Low/High Beam, Lightforce Genesis HID Spots, Dual Battery Setup with rear power outlets, ARB air compressor in engine bay, ~30L Watertank mounted behind fueltank.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by MidLifeCrisis View Post
                        VKPrado, I have one mounted in my buildup under the bonnet. I am planning to put one in the spare space at the back also. I will use the lhs cover to put outlets along the top half and the fuse box on the inner side on the bottom half. Also thinking of throwing in an inverter into the gap behind tat flap. have a drawing but need t load it up AFTER discussing with my auto electrician (MATT)
                        I'm going to start charging you more than the current rate of burbon cans, you keeping so busy there's no time for my own rig!
                        2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by gxl_d4d View Post
                          The redarc is a contactor (relay with high current carrying contacts) which is controlled by a voltage sensing circuity. The electronic isolators use transistors (usually MOSFETS) as the switching device. Conctactors can tollerate large current surges that would occur when cranking from the auxiliary battery. Electronic isolators generally won't handle surges. The transistors inside may be rated to but the amount of heat they'll give off will cause them to fail. The other problem is the solder on the printed circuit boards will start to melt. Transistors are made with bolted terminals but not in the size that the typical battery isolator box is.
                          Can I translate this into... Go with the redarc, it's a better unit and at half the price (for your needs)?

                          Loz
                          Loz - 2007 GXL D4D Auto White
                          ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, 2" OME Lift, ARB On-Board Air, Safari Snorkel, GME TX3440 UHF, GME AE4018K1 antenna, Redarc/Exide ED5 dual battery system, ARB 47L fridge, Cooper AT3's 265/70/17, LeighW's voltage booster, Lightforce 240XGT's, Outback Solutions Drawer Systems
                          [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?20863-Loz-s-120-GXL-D4D-Prado&highlight=loz%27s]My Rig Build-Up[/url]

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            I have played around about the jack but just can not seem to get it fitted in there while also allowing the jack to be removed. Any pics would sure help here. I have now been looking at the block that does not have the earth point on it as it is smaller and then somehow run all earths back to some sort of earth bus and then the main earth back to the battery.

                            I didn't want to mount it under the bonnet as others have as it just means running to many wires through the firewall.

                            I bought mine from my local ARB store.
                            [B]Tasmania 2015 GTG Committee Member[/B] 2005 Prado Pilbara, Sovereign Bar, Driver & passenger weathershields, UHF TX3220, Spare wheel spaces, Lifestyle rack, Genuine front & midrow seatcovers, Genuine front & midrow rubber floor mats, ARB 47 litre fridge/freezer, Hilux washer jets, BF Goodridge A/T, Radiator protection plate, Dual battery tray and isolator, ARB 2.5m awning, Rhino heavy duty areo bars, MSA rear wheel bin, MAXTRAX

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Piggy made me
                              Last edited by Noobie; 02-05-2012, 02:51 AM.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by VKPrado View Post
                                Hey Ryzz, do you have a picture on how and where you mounted the fuseblock? I have the same thing but an struggling on where to mount it.
                                There is pic in my build up of where I mounted my fuse box. It's nice and neat plus it's easy to get to.

                                http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-s-2011-VX-D4D

                                VXWesty
                                [SIZE=1]2011 Crystal Pearl VX D4D Auto, MT ATZ 4 Rib, Full River 105AH / Redarc SBi12 DBS (TJM Tray), CKMA12 Air Comp, Alpine INA-W910R - PDX-5 - Type-R Speakers, Engel MT60FP, Rhino Alloy Platform, Foxwing Awning, Rear 12V Cig and Engel Socket, ARB Deluxe Combi Bar, Safari Snorkel, LF 240 XGT's + HID Upgrade, HB3 (9005) HID Upgrade, Bilstein / Lovells 2" Lift Suspension, Chip-It, Alpine PKG-RSE2 Roof DVD Monitors, Maxtrax, GME TX3540 + AE409L, Avenger TDS 9.5, ARB UVP, ARB Protection Steps.
                                [/SIZE]

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