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Help! Damaged throttle wiring potentially

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  • #16
    Well, directly to the ECU from the accelerator pedal yes - the throttle body itself is fine as that runs direct to the ECU from the front of the engine. Those wires weren't touched. IC3 is behind passenger side dash:

    http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/pi...e6ce9.jpg.html

    So what it looks like... is that the brown/white wire runs from the accelerator pedal out that rubber seal, across under the windscreen in the engine bay to the passenger side seal and back in to the back of the IC3 plug. I'll test that this solves the issue by direct-wiring from the accelerator pedal and splicing onto the IC3 wire and if all is good, will run it properly out through the engine bay.

    What I haven't been able to find is what gauge this wire is. Any ideas?

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    • #17
      [QUOTE=pilgrim_traveller;432753]So what it looks like... is that the brown/white wire runs from the accelerator pedal out that rubber seal, across under the windscreen in the engine bay to the passenger side seal and back in to the back of the IC3 plug./QUOTE]

      Sounds rather illogical, not usual for Toyota. But ok! I would still be doing a continuity test on that wire with a multimeter.

      Gauge? Go next size up from what is in there and you can't go wrong. I would imagine it would be 18 or 16

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      • #18
        If only the insulation is niched I'd either just put a drop of epoxy, or silicon on
        it to re-insulate.

        The cut wire, I would try and pull enough slack on it to be able to solder it together
        using a pencil iron and heat shrink.

        Cheers
        Leigh
        HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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        • #19
          Hi Pilgrim traveller.

          Try this. Switch ign on and probe into the 3 pin TPS harness, you should see 5v for feed, 0v for ground, and the signal wire should rise and lower when the throttle pedal is pushed and released. From around .8v to just under 5, around 4.8v.

          If these are all ok then its not to do with the TPS. Must have the ign on and harness connected though mate. Let us know how ya go?

          Comment


          • #20
            Hi Stu

            Thanks for the thoughts - after I've repaired the obvious cut cable I'll measure the drop across those pins and see what I'm getting.

            Comment


            • #21
              Spent a few more hours on this tonight. Getting closer! Got a bit more slack to pull the loom into the driver footwell. It appears as though there was only the one wire damaged at this stage which is great. Unfortunately where it broke off was basically right behind where the installers sikaflex'd the loom from the engine side, so there's no slack at all to solder it back together. Added to that, it's pretty munched so I wouldn't be confident in it. Here's a pic of the wire in question (cabin side):

              http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/pi...e08b1.jpg.html

              And a pic of the engine side loom:

              http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/pi...d8286.jpg.html

              I stripped back as much tape as I could on the side of the engine bay to look through the loom:

              http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/pi...770e9.jpg.html

              And found this:

              http://s1344.photobucket.com/user/pi...74739.jpg.html

              (that's the wire I was looking for)

              RanJ - the cable route is actually worse than I first thought. This wire runs out the driver side grommet, all the way to the radiator, over the top, down the passenger side, under the fuse box and into the rubber grommet next to the ECU, then into the IC3 connector. I've put the multimeter over it from the break in the wire all the way to the IC3 pin and it's definitely the correct wire.

              So my thought at the moment is to run a new insulated cable from the affected pin on the accelerator harness (just got to figure out how to crack it open to replace the existing connection) out through the grommet and cut/re-solder/heatshrink and tape in that section that I've untaped. This should provide me with a very solid, serviceable connection and solve all my issues. A job for tomorrow night! If I can't figure out how to crack the connector then I'll just have to cut and solder there too.

              Thanks for the advice so far. Any additional thoughts are definitely welcome.

              Comment


              • #22
                PM sent..
                Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

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                • #23
                  I wouldn't bother trying to open the connector, just cut it and leave a pigtail to solder onto and join it up as soon as you can through the firewall

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                  • #24
                    Thanks RanJ - I was coming to the same conclusion also. Connector looks horrid to get the terminals out of without potentially damaging the other wires. And I think Toyota ship the new terminals with a wire attached anyway, so might as well just snip as suggested. Looks like I'll be back up and running just as soon as I can get back out to it again. Hope that really is all that was damaged

                    Appreciate your help.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Your welcome mate. Once done, you may need to clear any codes before she comes out of limp mode if it's in there.

                      You got out of this one pretty lucky. They've come to me in the back of tow Trucks before with a sheepish owner. Worst yet was a Skoda with 47 mangled wires.

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                      • #26
                        Ha oh dear... Did you have to re-run the whole loom or just snip and extend them one-by-one? Can't have been cheap...

                        I knew what I was doing with a drill was risky but thought I had allowed enough room. Never again

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                        • #27
                          I should've done a loom without doubt. But given that the section of loom was worth $6000 the customer requested that I repair... total Bill $4500 and no warranty given. So far so good.... 18 months on.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Flip... That would have been a sucky job.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I have throttle again! Thanks so much to everyone for your help. Snipped about 50mm away from the harness, then in the engine bay, then ran a new cable in and soldered on both ends. Lots of heat shrink and leccy to insulate it and surrounding cables and hold everything tight. Engine light is gone, accelerator pedal actually does something... Here's hoping that's the last of that. Oh... and soldering in that confined space under the steering column sucks (or melts skin as the case may be). All for a good cause.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Great news, should all be sweet now.... Cheers Steve
                                Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

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