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AGM batteries in the engine bay
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I did in my 120. Wouldn't do it again. Too hot.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
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Heat is bad for all batteries, not just AGM, it affects the chemical reactions. According to Trojan a month at 35c is equivalent to 2 months at 25C
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/dat...ata_Sheets.pdf
That said. I've got one under my bonnet and its been going strong for 2 years with no issues.[SIZE=2]120 GXL D4D Auto, with a 'List of Wants' greater than the 'List of Needs' greater than the 'List of Haves'
Nissan Patrol: Keeping Bogan's out of Toyota's since 1951[/SIZE]
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I put my AGM under the bonnet and have a thermal cover around it. The covers are cheap so even if they reduce the heat on the battery by only a couple of degrees it's worthwhile IMO.2016 Toyota Prado GXL auto. ARB deluxe bar, Rock Armor side steps, 9in Penetrator LED spotties (30,000LM), Uniden 8060 UHF, Bilstein/Dobinson 2in lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's, Safari snorkel, Dual battery system, ARB onboard compressor, Custom rear false floor, Kaon bash plates, Ext. diff/gearbox breathers, Provent 200, Wynnum tow bar, Roadsafe tow points, Phillips crystalvision bulbs, tint, Rhino rack platform.
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Where do you get them from the coversArb colour code deluxe bar, safari snorkel, lightforce venom HID's, GME uhf remote face, redarc tow pro, redarc bcdc 1240, pioneer platform, 40" curved light bar, dual battery, 3" SS exhaust, EGR mod, trans cooler upgrade, provent catch can, scangauge 2, diesel care secondary fuel filter, Tin's bash plates and actuator gaurd, 2in Bilstien and kings lift,
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Originally posted by Hally View PostWhere do you get them from the covers
And yes, I had an AGM battery in the engine bay for 4 years...and I did a big trip out back and up north Qld in middle of January a few years with outside temperatures at 50 degrees...the GPS sat nav shut down due to excessive heat..and the battery was still doing its job. I rang the manufacturer and they said you would know if it was damaged as it would start to bulge and swell, and no warranty available if its mounted in the engine bay...unfortunately the metal inner guard under the battery was not so robust..and it cracked eventually...but battery was still going strong.Last edited by brogers; 23-02-2016, 06:47 PM.SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning
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Still on my original starter battery well into its 7th year. Deep cycle battery fitted 4 years ago going strong. Both in the engine bay. Heat is but one factor in battery life. The big killer is running them down too much.2009 120 GXL D4D, TJM Bull Bar, Winch, Safari Snorkel, ARB Lift, ARB Lockers, Black Widow Drawers
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Originally posted by Hally View PostWhere do you get them from the covers2016 Toyota Prado GXL auto. ARB deluxe bar, Rock Armor side steps, 9in Penetrator LED spotties (30,000LM), Uniden 8060 UHF, Bilstein/Dobinson 2in lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3's, Safari snorkel, Dual battery system, ARB onboard compressor, Custom rear false floor, Kaon bash plates, Ext. diff/gearbox breathers, Provent 200, Wynnum tow bar, Roadsafe tow points, Phillips crystalvision bulbs, tint, Rhino rack platform.
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Originally posted by OldGreyFart View Post
I have AGM batteries for both starter and auxiliary under the bonnet ever since I started with AGM batteries which was some 15 years ago
The starter is now probably 5 years old and the auxiliary (which I used as starter before I got the new main battery) is now around 8 years.
According to the voltage meter both holding the voltage well, getting well charged (I use a booster diode) and after some messy experience with spilled acid years ago would not got back.
Saying that that is only my personal experience but keeping them well charged with a voltage above 14V seems to ensure a long life.
Cheers
Mike
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As I have written before, dual battery systems are acompromise, you generally will try
a few different configurations before you come up with the perfect solution for you.
Some AGM's will tolerate heat better than others, the actual car design, where the
battery is placed, does it have a cool air stream to keep it cool etc will have a bearing
on how hot the battery gets, in some cars mounted behind the headlight for example
it will get some cooling air flow, in some cars the aux might be located beside the exhaust
manifold which is not the ideal position to mount a battery etc.HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others
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Originally posted by groeschel View PostInteresting subject. Different opinions and different experiences...
I have AGM batteries for both starter and auxiliary under the bonnet ever since I started with AGM batteries which was some 15 years ago
The starter is now probably 5 years old and the auxiliary (which I used as starter before I got the new main battery) is now around 8 years.
According to the voltage meter both holding the voltage well, getting well charged (I use a booster diode) and after some messy experience with spilled acid years ago would not got back.
Saying that that is only my personal experience but keeping them well charged with a voltage above 14V seems to ensure a long life.
Cheers
Mike
Have you tested to see what is the capacity if each of the batteries?
Charge it up and stick a moderate load across the battery. I use a 60W or 100W headlight globes which draw about 5 Amps or 8 Amps respectively.
Measure the current.
Leave it run for a few hours and then measure the voltage. Using the nice coloured chart floating around the forum you can work out the SoC and using the current and time you can work out the Amp Hours consumed.
You can then work out the Amp Hours remaining and therefore the actual Amp Hour capacity of the battery.
The volts alone don't tell you the useful energy available from the battery.
S155 SX with dual battery and Polyairs in the rear springs..
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I put a heat shield beside my battery, mounted off the ARB battery mount. Its spaced from the battery with only 2 hold bolts making contact with the battery mounting frame. The shield gets fairly hot but you can feel the difference between the motor side and battery side. With air flow going past the battery and the heat shield the battery remains much cooler.
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