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Intermittent Engine Light accompanied by sudden Stall - NO CODE!!

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  • Intermittent Engine Light accompanied by sudden Stall - NO CODE!!

    Please Help! I have a Prado 2005 120 series 3 liter turbo diesel.

    My car keeps stalling very frequently about 3-8 times each time I used it, the check engine light comes one and simultaneously stalls, I turn it off and it starts fine with no light and no code. My mechanic doesn't know what it is but thinks it's electrical and wants to put in a new computer which is $$$ - We have changed all filters and cleaned all the sensors. However I have just cleaned the air sensor again today and it was really dirty again after about 2 weeks. It started a couple weeks ago after a long solid drive of 300kms I pulled over for fuel then 2kms down the road it started an has not fully stopped since. On changing the air filter I noticed the to rear clips were loose and the box was filthy leaves and crap everywhere (this was how i bought the car second hand), I cleaned a sensor that goes directly into the inter-cooler as there is no MAF in the usual spot on the filter box, this helped for a short period but it is now getting worse. Is it possible for this to trip/fault and stall the car without leaving a fault code? Can my air intake be so dirty that it has built up again and caused this issues?

    Please Help, we're planning to drive 2000kms over chrissy and won't be taking the car like this, also if it is the computer It is not going to be here until after christmas. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Many many thanks!

  • #2
    If it started after filling the tank the first thing I would be doing is draining the
    tank and chaeck for water, dirt etc.

    When does it stall, idling, coming to a stop, trying to accelerate etc?

    When you say no trouble code, no actual trouble code, or you can't read it?

    You may need to get it to stop with the engine check light lit then read it.
    HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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    • #3
      I only topped up about 30 liters in (enough to get home as Diesel was very expensive 300kms from town), but worth a look! Cheers.

      It has stalled in EVERY situation, accelerating, changing down gears, breaking, cruising at high speed, 2000-4500 revs, cold and hot, full tank, reserve tank, and all gears. however it has only happened at idle once and that was after about 1 hour so it seems to be when the car it sucking air/fuel.

      Thanks for you input.

      I took it for a service and no codes came up, I took it back to get them to check again after it kept happening and there was something about the diesel pump he talked to a specialist who said it doesn't have the ability to shut the car off, this is not a Toyota specific dealer so maybe they don't have the right gear?

      I managed to get it to stop and literally rolled into the mechanic car park and asked him to check it but I left for so i'm not sure if he started it again and drove it around the back, he said if it had happened numerous times it should leave a record. are you able to connect a computer to read the code with the key in ignition on etc? because if I turn it off the light won't be back on until it stalls again.

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      • #4
        Doesn't it leave an error code in the ECU?
        [B]Steve[/B]

        2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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        • #5
          Apparently not, I can't check it myself but i trust my mechanic. Could it be a faulty wire?

          Comment


          • #6
            Problems like this are really hard to trace, could be a bad connection, faulty component etc. With out being able to read the fault code it will be a hard task to find it. The fact that the engine stops and doesn't run rough might help a bit in finding the problem. It's not likely to be something clogged if it starts ok straight after stalling.
            [B]Steve[/B]

            2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

            Comment


            • #7
              The Intake air temp sensor is the one which keeps getting dirty, I cleaned it again last night with contact cleaner and for some reason decided to spray a bit in and around the sensor housing. This morning It made a clunking sound when starting and is making a light rhythmic knocking/ticking noise. Could this be related and is this sensor capable or causing the engine light to come on and car stall without leaving a code?

              I read hear that they can be faulty (changing the air/fuel mix) and not leave a code, but I think that's only if it doesn't cause the check enhine light to come on in the first place.
              http://www.aa1car.com/library/air_temp_sensors.htm

              Comment


              • #8
                A common problem for diesels up north is also blocked filters and transfer pipes due to bacterial growth in the tanks.
                Dave
                Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm going to buy an auto scanner and drive around with it on, hopefully if it happens again I can catch it in the act and see if a code comes up.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I would still advise as the issue started after you just added fuel I would be emptying tank and
                    checking the fuel.

                    If your going to buy a scanner make sure your model is ODB compliant first.
                    HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Fuel related doesn't explain why it starts fine straight away.
                      [B]Steve[/B]

                      2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The problem will most likely be fuel related as that is the only thing that will stop a diesel
                        running.

                        Rather than bush range everything at once, he wrote the problem started after adding some
                        fuel, a logical step therefore would be to drain the tank and check it as there may be some water
                        or other debris sloshing about in the bottom of the fuel tank.

                        Another thing I would have thought someone would have asked by now is why does the
                        sensor keep getting dirty, dirty from what?
                        HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Tank vent is blocked?
                          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                          • #14
                            I think the sensor keeps getting dirty because the air intake was so filthy when I changed it, i'm talking twigs leaves so much red dust, so I think the hoses are dirty and this keeps is building up on the sensor (intake air temp) shortly after cleaning it? It has like a fine film of black oil/sludge after a couple hundred kms.

                            I have been driving around town for the last couple of days completely fine, it seems to only happen when I recommence driving after a long period (100+ kms) of constant open road driving.

                            It is now starting and running smoothly and does not feel mechanical or fuel starved, if feels like it is a fuse tripping that turns off the engine and is then reset with turning the car off an on again, Once it starts it then happens more frequently. This is why It feels like a Build up on the sensor, as it takes time to start (slowly building up) then once it happens (build up is sufficient) it trips more frequently, seemingly more so at higher speeds, but once it reaches this critical stage is can go at anytime.

                            Thank you all for your input, I really appreciate the ideas please keep them coming.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thin film of black oil/sludge? Are you running a Finer Filter? Too much oil on the filter? I've spent many years living in regional WA and touring the red dirt outback tracks and the worst I ever had was a very thin brown coating of the sensor. The paper filters work extremely well.
                              Dave
                              Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                              Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

                              Comment

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