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Cracked inner guard repair and reinforcement options?

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  • #76
    Resurrecting an old thread, but I have to do this repair fairly quick. I have done a bunch of searching and come up with these part numbers:

    5373460050
    5373360040
    5373260060
    5373160070

    53731-60071
    53732-60060
    53733-60040
    53734-60051

    91671-A0614
    90178-06012
    90119-06766
    91616-60616

    Is anyone able to confirm all this is correct? Theres no pics on Amayama's website so its difficult to be sure.

    Comment


    • #77
      Some of your part numbers aren't valid. This is what I have found

      Small pieces
      53733-60040 patch, front fender apron (RH)
      53734-60050 patch, front fender apron (LH)

      Large pieces
      53731-60070 patch, front fender apron (RH) (discont'd - new p/n 53731-60071)
      53732-60060 patch, front fender apron (LH) (N/A @ Amayama - new p/n unknown. Avail from partsouq)

      The 9-series part numbers are bolts and nuts

      The large pieces aren't available from Amayama currently.
      amts
      Ninja Poster.
      Last edited by amts; 26-07-2017, 05:23 PM.

      Comment


      • #78
        Bought the pars last year, and just finished doing it, it was a bitch of a job, took me several weekends, mostly because I did not take any shortcuts, and did few other jobs along the way (cleaned up rust spots, properly sealed up mys snorkel, changed o rings in my ARB compressor, redone the extra wiring with proper fuse box, changed quite a few rusted bolts and screws around, repaired my bashplates etc etc.. it took me nearly three month to get it all back together.. actually still at it, as I have also done some work on the rear of the car :-)).

        Bought these from Partsouq, bought from them about 5x times already never had any issues.Click image for larger version

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ID:	656206 - prices in U$
        And I still have one of 53732-60060 as I bought two by mistake.

        In the end just before I bolted it all together, I have ended up putting in between the plates and chassis asphalt based paint as kind of an adhesive, not sure if I have done wrong or right, but I believe it might help to strengthen the whole thing and stop any corrosion where water might have got in. Also used stainless steel bolts and nuts with fender washers on both sides.

        I have also found a crack in the spot shown in one of teh previous post, near the door hinges, and sure enough the whole lot was full of decomposing leaves etc.
        Borec
        Senior Member
        Last edited by Borec; 25-07-2017, 06:25 PM.

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        • #79
          Thank you for the info.

          Does the bullbar have to come off to get the guards off?

          Comment


          • #80
            ..

            Comment


            • #81
              Originally posted by Borec View Post
              Bought the pars last year, and just finished doing it, it was a bitch of a job, took me several weekends, mostly because I did not take any shortcuts, and did few other jobs along the way (cleaned up rust spots, properly sealed up mys snorkel, changed o rings in my ARB compressor, redone the extra wiring with proper fuse box, changed quite a few rusted bolts and screws around, repaired my bashplates etc etc.. it took me nearly three month to get it all back together.. actually still at it, as I have also done some work on the rear of the car :-)).

              Bought these from Partsouq, bought from them about 5x times already never had any issues.[ATTACH=CONFIG]25707[/ATTACH] - prices in U$
              And I still have one of 53732-60060 as I bought two by mistake.

              In the end just before I bolted it all together, I have ended up putting in between the plates and chassis asphalt based paint as kind of an adhesive, not sure if I have done wrong or right, but I believe it might help to strengthen the whole thing and stop any corrosion where water might have got in. Also used stainless steel bolts and nuts with fender washers on both sides.

              I have also found a crack in the spot shown in one of teh previous post, near the door hinges, and sure enough the whole lot was full of decomposing leaves etc.
              I was thinking of doing the same thing with something like spray bitumen or something. After all you done want dirt and crap getting in there and some vibration damping can only help.

              Did you weld up the cracks in the spot weld of the existing brace?

              Any ideas on how to stop leaves and crap getting in there?

              Comment


              • #82
                I only had a gasless MIG so the welding was crappy as the metal is too thin, and I am not an expert. No, I did not spot weld the existing brace. Mind you my cracks were pretty large, so there was some deformation present and I had some difficulty aligning the large braces. I had just removed all the rust, repainted everything several times (even the drilled holes), then used that bitumen stuff, and bolted it together, then I used the bitumen paint to seal it all again, and then just sprayed that with a final coat of paint
                No idea how to keep the leaves out.
                I have ARB bar, and it does not have to come off, however you will need to take off the sides plates. You will also want to have all the flare clips ready to exchange, as you would want to change those, same with the black clips that hold the plastic lining in the wheel arches. And having the black tape that holds the flares to the car is good thing too, you can get it all from the same people, it just takes some time to figure out what the parts are. I cannot help you with that as I have ordered heaps of clips and screw and bolds (to replace all the rusted ones), so my part list is not very helpful as it has only part numbers and "clip", so I do not know what is what anymore. Not to mentioned I replaced the clips for the back flares as well.

                Comment


                • #83
                  Hey Guys,

                  I just found this thread on the Aussie 4wd Prado 120 fb page and after a few trips to Cape York and a lot of trips to Fraser Island, I've been getting my inner guards welded due to cracking, just thinking it was my driving style or lack of. I got some really good information from amts which lead me to call Amayama this afternoon, I'm going to order the kit tomorrow and was hoping that somebody could point me in the direction of a reputable panel beater on the Gold Coast to fit it. From the guys that have done it do I also need lots of the replacement inner wheel arch plastic plugs?? Can you please suggest anything else I might need to order at the same time too?? I've already seen that getting 70 M6 x 10mm stainless bolts, nuts & spring washer & flat washers is the go. thank you bushbasher for the detailed photos and comments btw. All advice is greatly appreciated, thank you Mike.
                  03 120 gxl 4ltr, tjm t13 bar,illuminator 9" led spotties, oricom uhf, rock sliders, brush bars, toyo open country mt's, tjm bash plates, airtech snorkel, brc comp breather kit, k&n filter, redback extractors, 2" king spring hhd lift kit & tough dogs, roadsafe front recovery points, hilux washer upgrade, rhino rack, sunseeker2 awning & foxwing, maxtrax, redarc dc, dual batteries, 80 ltr engel, titan rear drawers..

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                  • #84
                    So I am going to order the big bits from partouq as Amayama are out of stock. Anyone know how many of these bits I need?

                    91671-A0614
                    90178-06012
                    90119-06766
                    91616-60616

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      I did not use those, I bought SS316 bolts, nyloc nuts and mudguard washers from here:http://https://www.thestainlessshop.com.au/default.asp
                      I bought box of 100 of each and 200 of the washers. It is bit more then I needed, but they are handy to have anyway,a nd box of 100 is cheaper then buying 70 individually (or something like that). Cannot remember now what size I used. But can look it up once I get home.

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                      • #86
                        I was thinking of doing something similar.

                        The sizes would be great.

                        You can never have to many spare nuts and bolts in the shed.

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          The bolts are M6 x 10, just the right length to accommodate the two washers and nyloc nuts.

                          Comment


                          • #88
                            Originally posted by Borec View Post
                            The bolts are M6 x 10, just the right length to accommodate the two washers and nyloc nuts.
                            Thank you.

                            Comment


                            • #89
                              My parts all finally arrived late last week & I just dropped the car off this morning to the panel beaters and should get it back Friday all things going well. He's pretty switched on and I reckon he'll do a good job. I'll know pretty soon as I'm off to Fraser in about two weeks then back to Cape York a few weeks after that. I hope that these bracing panels do their job properly...
                              03 120 gxl 4ltr, tjm t13 bar,illuminator 9" led spotties, oricom uhf, rock sliders, brush bars, toyo open country mt's, tjm bash plates, airtech snorkel, brc comp breather kit, k&n filter, redback extractors, 2" king spring hhd lift kit & tough dogs, roadsafe front recovery points, hilux washer upgrade, rhino rack, sunseeker2 awning & foxwing, maxtrax, redarc dc, dual batteries, 80 ltr engel, titan rear drawers..

                              Comment


                              • #90
                                Parts arrived and I'm approaching the point where I have some time to do it.

                                How hard is it to remove/replace the guards?

                                Comment

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