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Cracked inner guard repair and reinforcement options?

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  • #91
    It is not hard, just tedious, worst are the plastic clips, just make sure you have new ones, as you will most likely destroy them taking them off (both the black ones for the plastic on the inside of the arches, and the colour ones for holding the flares (actually I cannot remember now if you actually need to take the flares off, but I did)). Then more of a pain is taking out all the stuff that sits on your wheel arches from inside. In my case it was the two batteries, air-box with snorkel, compressor, oil catch can, breathers etc. If you do it properly it is not one day job. I took several weekends, as I painted the drilled holes, and did some more repair work, since it was all taken apart (some rust from leaking battery, and general rust spots on brackets etc) and always waited for the paint to dry.

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    • #92
      Hi all,

      I recently purchased a late 2005 KZJ120 Prado with VERY bad passenger side crack (well, completely dislodged whole skirt/guard). I was so busy looking at the mechanical side of the vehicle that I missed the cracked bodywork. From the exterior, all the panels line up perfectly, but underneath, there is a mess..... The entire front skirt/guard has dislodged from the firewall with basically only the front body mount being a good contact point. I haven't uploaded an image of the inside of the engine bay, but the complete seam that joins the skirt to the firewall has completely split and looking down to the bottom of the skirt where it joins the firewall, daylight can be seen!. So this vehicle has all the cracks mentioned in the forums but more including movement so bad that the bonnet latch has broken and the centre rear of the bonnet has cracked (which is visible with bonnet lifted and a 'pressure' dent in the top of the bonnet). Furthermore, virtually all of the spot welds have all broken off. Please see the attached images.

      The only modification to the vehicle is an ARB deluxe bullbar (no winch) and EFS front struts. I had to remove the bullbar as the movement was so excessive that I thought the chassis was cracked (the bodywork's told me to get the bullbar off ASAP and kindly gave me a bumper). I cant blame the ARB bar as it is simply very well made, but frankly the construction of the Prado is poor (well, designed for comfort and not strength.....). I have braced the battery and it is amazing how much difference this makes.

      I have all the fender patches to put on etc (thanks to everyone's posts in that regard) and the situation is so bad that it cant be welded and the entire front left guard has to be replaced. I replaced the front body mounts as I assumed that they were 'chewed to pieces' but they weren't!

      What I would like to know is how have all the 'fixes' that have been completed in the past held up? Have the cracks formed again even with the fender/inner guard patches? Also, it seems ridiculous that I have a perfect ARB bullbar sitting on the shed floor and I am unsure if it is safe to put it back on. How has everyone found the ARB bullbar after the guards and battery have been braced?

      I have had ARB bars on 4 different vehicles and I have never had any issue (last vehicle was a 100 series Cruiser).

      Anyway, if anyone could give me thoughts on their experiences, that would be great!

      Cheers
      Last edited by Bazza22; 20-02-2018, 02:55 PM.

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      • #93
        Hi Bazza22,

        Since I've had the bracing panels installed I've been to Cape York once and Fraser several times and on close inspection I can't find any further faults. The inner guards were welded up properly when I had the bracing panels installed and there's been no further issues, I've also got a TJM steel bar on mine with Kings HHD springs,Tough Dog inserts, dual battery etc. I hope this info helps mate.

        Cheers,

        Mike.
        03 120 gxl 4ltr, tjm t13 bar,illuminator 9" led spotties, oricom uhf, rock sliders, brush bars, toyo open country mt's, tjm bash plates, airtech snorkel, brc comp breather kit, k&n filter, redback extractors, 2" king spring hhd lift kit & tough dogs, roadsafe front recovery points, hilux washer upgrade, rhino rack, sunseeker2 awning & foxwing, maxtrax, redarc dc, dual batteries, 80 ltr engel, titan rear drawers..

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        • #94
          Originally posted by Bazza22 View Post
          Hi all,

          I recently purchased a late 2005 KZJ120 Prado with VERY bad passenger side crack (well, completely dislodged whole skirt/guard). I was so busy looking at the mechanical side of the vehicle that I missed the cracked bodywork. From the exterior, all the panels line up perfectly, but underneath, there is a mess..... The entire front skirt/guard has dislodged from the firewall with basically only the front body mount being a good contact point. I haven't uploaded an image of the inside of the engine bay, but the complete seam that joins the skirt to the firewall has completely split and looking down to the bottom of the skirt where it joins the firewall, daylight can be seen!. So this vehicle has all the cracks mentioned in the forums but more including movement so bad that the bonnet latch has broken and the centre rear of the bonnet has cracked (which is visible with bonnet lifted and a 'pressure' dent in the top of the bonnet). Furthermore, virtually all of the spot welds have all broken off. Please see the attached images.

          The only modification to the vehicle is an ARB deluxe bullbar (no winch) and EFS front struts. I had to remove the bullbar as the movement was so excessive that I thought the chassis was cracked (the bodywork's told me to get the bullbar off ASAP and kindly gave me a bumper). I cant blame the ARB bar as it is simply very well made, but frankly the construction of the Prado is poor (well, designed for comfort and not strength.....). I have braced the battery and it is amazing how much difference this makes.

          I have all the fender patches to put on etc (thanks to everyone's posts in that regard) and the situation is so bad that it cant be welded and the entire front left guard has to be replaced. I replaced the front body mounts as I assumed that they were 'chewed to pieces' but they weren't!

          What I would like to know is how have all the 'fixes' that have been completed in the past held up? Have the cracks formed again even with the fender/inner guard patches? Also, it seems ridiculous that I have a perfect ARB bullbar sitting on the shed floor and I am unsure if it is safe to put it back on. How has everyone found the ARB bullbar after the guards and battery have been braced?

          I have had ARB bars on 4 different vehicles and I have never had any issue (last vehicle was a 100 series Cruiser).

          Anyway, if anyone could give me thoughts on their experiences, that would be great!

          Cheers
          Wow that is severe. Just out of interest what - if any - was the gap between the bull bar and the headlights/guard before it was removed?
          Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

          Comment


          • #95
            Originally posted by mexmike View Post
            Hi Bazza22,

            Since I've had the bracing panels installed I've been to Cape York once and Fraser several times and on close inspection I can't find any further faults. The inner guards were welded up properly when I had the bracing panels installed and there's been no further issues, I've also got a TJM steel bar on mine with Kings HHD springs,Tough Dog inserts, dual battery etc. I hope this info helps mate.

            Cheers,

            Mike.
            Thanks Mike,

            That is what I wanted to find out! I currently have a dark blue bumper on a silver Prado and an ARB bullbar sitting on the floor.....

            So on the repair, the body works didn't replace the entire inner guard, just welded it? One quote I have is for $5000 to replace the entire inner guard with a factory one which seems way too much and a bit extreme really.... Frankly I have found by simply bracing the battery has helped heaps.

            Thanks again!

            Comment


            • #96
              Originally posted by adrian5800 View Post

              Wow that is severe. Just out of interest what - if any - was the gap between the bull bar and the headlights/guard before it was removed?
              The gap was about 12 to 15 mm which was needed to allow for the 'wobble' of the bull bar. The gap was larger on the passenger side due to the entire guard being dislodged from the firewall!

              Cheers

              Comment


              • #97
                Yeah the "wobble" is actually the body of the car moving on the rubber mounts on the chassis, the bullbar is rigid to the chassis (if you weren't already aware). The spec for fitting the bullbars to these cars is 15mm +/- 2mm between the bar and the headlight / guard. I have a 2005 model which has done a fair bit of off road and outback corrugation kms without any cracking. It also has dual batteries (which admittedly are braced to the front apron), sovereign bar, winch etc. Mine has done ~230k km.

                Btw if that was my car I would be welding and patching the cracks up too.
                Attached Files
                Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

                Comment


                • #98
                  Thanks Adrian5800!

                  The Prado I have is the same model as yours but bog standard apart from the ARB bar! It started life as a rural rep vehicle in Roma QLD which is where I think it has seen bad corrugations for 150,000 km and then gentle k's in Tassie for the past 100,000 km.

                  I am seriously tempted at the moment to trade the ARB bar for a sovereign bar simply due to the weight difference. As I noted above, the ARB is very well made but the weight is MASSIVE at around 80 kg with all brackets and plates etc. Its interesting in the Prado 150 forum that most of the 'cracked guards' had ARB bull bars. Aside to that, now that I know Prado's crack, I have found a few that are 'cracked' that the owners don't even know about (I live in far NW Tassie where there are heaps of 4WD's heading to Sandy Cape/Balfour Track etc.).

                  Cheers

                  Comment


                  • #99
                    I would hazard a guess and say your problems don't lie with the ARB bar or the strength or weakness of the Prado bodywork - more to do with the 1000's of k's on corrugations with 40+ psi in the tyres at 120+ kmh..
                    Mechanical sympathy doesn't exist I'm sure in a rep's mind driving a company car.


                    Cheers

                    Adrian
                    Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

                    Comment


                    • Okay gents, just discovered both sides have cracking above the Upper Control arms above the wheels. Only hairline cracks but don't want them to develop over time.

                      I've some part numbers but appear to have x3 large pieces and x2 small pieces????



                      Just wondering if I need the part number ending 60110 ..patch FR Fender??

                      All the rest are Fender Apron's, just don't want to order x2 of something!! I don't think I will order the small pieces just the large Apron's underneath!! I also don't want to order new original replacement parts, just the patches if you know what I mean.

                      Many thanks.
                      [SIZE=1]03 TD 120 Grande, L&R weathershields, f&r deflectors, Sov bar Amts rad b.pl, TJM front B.P, Uniden UH7760NB Kaymar LED worklight, ARB 47l, lifestyle rack & Milford C. Barrier, 9500llb Superwinch, IPF 900SR spots, T. Dog 40mm adj shocks/struts, coils, airbagman OA6011 airbags, 2.75" Beaudesert exhaust, 300w inverter, 1L Catch can,outback rec points, R.R awning, dual batteries redarc SBI12 Cooper LT A/T3's 265/65, Safari snorkel, Hilux jets, Brains TG150, Leigh's booster diode [/SIZE]

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