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Which Towbar is best for GXL 150?

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    D4D
    Addicted PP Member

  • D4D
    replied
    Boomer what ever you're smoking, can I have some?

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  • boomer
    Junior Member

  • boomer
    replied
    Originally posted by D4D View Post
    Do you really believe Toyota designed and built the towbar?
    D4D I didn't say that Toyota built the bar. In fact you would be surprised at how little of a vehicle is actually built by any of the manufacturers! What I do know is that Toyota and for that matter all manufacturers use specialized manufacturers to produce all manner of parts and accessories for their cars. In many ways the car companies could be called car assemblers. I also know that the manufacturing processes of these manufacturers is closely controlled and monitored by the car companies and anything that comes onto the market branded Toyota will be top quality. The bar may well be built by HR but it will be built to Toyota specs whoever builds it.

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  • Kowolski
    Member

  • Kowolski
    replied
    Where's the spare wheel on overseas Prados without the wheel on the back door?

    I have a feeling Toyota may have decided to design their bar to sit low and under the rear cross rail as it wouldn't fit forward of it and higher due the spare being there on some models. This consequently necessitating cutting of the rear bumper.

    HR only making a bar for here, and not being encumbered with Toyotas overseas design requirement were then able to make a bar that sits higher, more out of the way, and doesn't necessitate buggering the rear bumper. Just a thought.

    I was going with the Toyota bar thinking hey it's made by Toyota so it must be better and there a reason it sits low and cuts the bumper. After crawling under vehicles with both types I've now completely changed to mine. After looking I feel the HR bar is a better made bar, sits, higher, looks every bit as strong (in fact stronger) and looks much better. Took a while for me to reach a decision but happy now I have.

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  • D4D
    Addicted PP Member

  • D4D
    replied
    Originally posted by boomer View Post
    Why wouldn't I fit the HR bar? Simply because I believe that the R&D that goes into Toyota branded products makes them a superior product and I want the best for my vehicle.
    Do you really believe Toyota designed and built the towbar?

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  • boomer
    Junior Member

  • boomer
    replied
    Originally posted by D4D View Post
    As I understand it the previous part number didn't fit SWB. This part number fits SWB & LWB.

    8 bolts in the crossmember, 2 bolts in each chassis rail, no bumper cut required and sits up higher than the OE bar. Why wouldn't you fit the HR bar
    Why wouldn't I fit the HR bar? Simply because I believe that the R&D that goes into Toyota branded products makes them a superior product and I want the best for my vehicle. After market may be cheaper and I understand that many people need to buy according to price but the old adage that you get what you pay for is often quite right. For example you might pay less for an after market wiring harness but then you find your reversing assistance and traction control systems don't know there's a van on the back.

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  • boomer
    Junior Member

  • boomer
    replied
    Originally posted by D4D View Post
    I wonder if the 200 hitch setup suports a WDH? That is the issue with the 120 OE hitches snapping when they have a WDH fitted. If you're not running a WDH then it probably doesn't matter.
    The120 OE hitch receiver snapping problem occurs when a WDH is left on when traversing deep dips for example a ferry entrance. A WDH should be disconnected when crossing any tight dips regardless of the brand of hitch receiver as it also puts great strain on the A frame of the caravan. A frames snap as regularly or maybe even more so than OE 120 receivers. Treated with respect the receiver won't break and the problem is not with the cross bar mounting but with the enormous forces from very strong bars being put under great pressure.

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  • wooley
    Avid PP Poster!

  • wooley
    replied
    Originally posted by krypto View Post
    Thats exactly my point if you look under the 200 the hitch attaches straight to the cross member, and that's good for 3.5t.
    The 200 series cross member was engineered for that kind of load though.

    Maybe I'll get under one and check it all out...

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  • D4D
    Addicted PP Member

  • D4D
    replied
    I wonder if the 200 hitch setup suports a WDH? That is the issue with the 120 OE hitches snapping when they have a WDH fitted. If you're not running a WDH then it probably doesn't matter.

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  • krypto
    Avid PP Poster!

  • krypto
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    Originally posted by wooley View Post
    The 200 series has an integral tow hitch. ALL 200 series (as far as I know) have a tow hitch built in, and all you buy is a tongue to place in the receiver after you pop the little plastic cover off.
    Thats exactly my point if you look under the 200 the hitch attaches straight to the cross member, and that's good for 3.5t.

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  • boomer
    Junior Member

  • boomer
    replied
    Originally posted by plodder627 View Post
    Hi all. I'm also getting a new Prado shortly and want to get a towbar but am not sure which way to go. The Toyota bar appears to fit snugly against the bumper bar (although it will be a permanent fixture with the cut made into the bumper bar). There is a company called BTA in Melbourne who produce their own product and they can fit an after market wiring loom with built in ECM which they splice into the existing loom that they say is relatively easy, or for an extra $50 or so they can fit the genuine Toyota loom but they then have to remove part of the back seat to access the connector which is apparently located somewhere in the midst of the subframe. This takes more time and hence costs more $$. The tow bar itself looks OK, is bolted to numerous parts of the subframe and doesn't involve cutting the bumper bar but it is more "visible' than the genuine bar...but it costs about $300 less. The other thing they told me was that the 150 is longer in the rear than the 120 series so they have to put spacers in to account for the extra length to secure it...not sure if this weakens the integrity of the bar but am thinking maybe stick with the genuine product....
    It's not necessary to touch the rear seat to fit a genuine Toyota wiring loom. The instructions say to remove the rear seat cover and move the LHS rear seat out of the way, remove the side trim and across the back. This is only to make it easier to feed the loom through from the outside. The connector is located in the recess where the jack is stored. The only things which need to be removed are two grommets. One is on a vertical surface behind the left rear wheel. The other is accessed from the jack storage. It's hard to get at but easier than removing the seat and trim. Just pull the harness through sparkie style. I put electrical cable through first, taped the loom to it and with some jiggling got it through. Also all wiring looms, genuine and not have to go into that same area as that's where the connector is.
    boomer
    Junior Member
    Last edited by boomer; 15-07-2012, 09:49 PM.

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  • Kowolski
    Member

  • Kowolski
    replied
    Okay, got this from Haymen R today...

    1 - the recent change to using new part number T02910RW for the 150 kit was some kind of change to the ecu wiring loom they use, that's all.

    2 - HR are currently developing, and apparently it's almost finished, a new model, will do both the 120 & 150. This is apparently to simplify manufacturing processes. This will replace both existing 120 & 150 products when released. No idea how they are going to achieve this.

    This is all according to an engineer I finally spoke to at HR today.

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  • Dusty74
    Senior Member

  • Dusty74
    replied
    The best one's the one in my shed that's for sale!

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  • wooley
    Avid PP Poster!

  • wooley
    replied
    Originally posted by krypto View Post
    I had the cross member only bar fitted, not by choice but was too late when I picked it up.

    So question is what's wrong with this type of bar? Has there been a recall and isn't this what you get on the 200 series ie mounted to rear cross member.
    Obviously attaching to both chassis rails and cross member is ideal.

    The 200 series has an integral tow hitch. ALL 200 series (as far as I know) have a tow hitch built in, and all you buy is a tongue to place in the receiver after you pop the little plastic cover off.

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  • krypto
    Avid PP Poster!

  • krypto
    replied
    I had the cross member only bar fitted, not by choice but was too late when I picked it up.

    So question is what's wrong with this type of bar? Has there been a recall and isn't this what you get on the 200 series ie mounted to rear cross member.

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  • D4D
    Addicted PP Member

  • D4D
    replied
    Originally posted by Kowolski View Post
    I'm still curious what the specific changes were on the latest version (T02910RW ) if anyone knows?
    As I understand it the previous part number didn't fit SWB. This part number fits SWB & LWB.

    8 bolts in the crossmember, 2 bolts in each chassis rail, no bumper cut required and sits up higher than the OE bar. Why wouldn't you fit the HR bar
    D4D
    Addicted PP Member
    Last edited by D4D; 13-07-2012, 11:54 AM.

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