What is the latest model this has been noticed on..
I'm wondering if they've fixed it along the way.
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Is the 150 showing any signs of cracked inner guards
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I think some of you blokes may have been in the sun too long.
Gordon,Originally posted by Gordon View PostI've had some nice & soft tall springs made up to restore height in the rear (same rate as OE and because I don't overload I can use original shocks - and the warranty they came with).
By far the biggest restriction to wheel travel and flex is OE shocks. They are too short and restrict down travel, which in turn restricts flex. Aftermarket shock absorbers are (generally) longer and offer more articulation, better control and better fade resistance.
I agree that long, compliant springs do give more articulation than shorter, stiffer springs. This is why I prefer springs with lower spring rates that are longer and more compliant, like those produced by Dobinsons, RidePro and OME. There's no denying the amount of flex 8608 has achieved in his "SIK-120" which features extensive suspension modifications to take full advantage of very long and compliant Dobinson springs:
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post355281
I reckon if Andrew looks at his bumpstop contact areas on the rear diff housing and at the front lower control arms, there'll be plenty of evidence where his suspension has fully compressed to the bumpstop limit. He also has the advantage of longer aftermarket shocks for better down travel which equates to better total wheel travel and in turn better flex.Originally posted by Skywalkerrun View PostI am aware that you get body twist on such angles once the suspension bottoms out but neither your front or rear have reached the bump stops!
IIRC, Andrew has OME front springs, which are a very similar spring rate to OE springs, but longer, making Andrew's set up far from being stiff. Kings Springs, Lovells and a few others have stiffer, shorter springs to carry weight. Check the Suspension Database for details:
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...nsion-Database
As far as cracking the guards is concerned (we may have deviated just a little OT in this thread), it seems to be a combination of factors that is causing them and Toyota are burying their head in the sand because they have no solution or easy fix. This is really no different to the recall Toyota issued on the 120 Series Sovereign bullbar mounting brackets, which were cracking under "severe" conditions, but the solution was simple. With cracking inner guards, the fix is not so easy.
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The rides really the balance between springs and shocks, and why its important to get a matched setup.Originally posted by wooley View PostI wouldn't mind softer springs but then I'd probably lose a lot of clearance and find it wallowy.
Horses for courses I suppose.Last edited by krypto; 30-07-2012, 03:31 PM.
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As my vehicle is always at GVM, I've got stiffer suspension.
I have noticed that it is sometimes still a little harsh though, most noticeable after towing when I remove the weight from the ball.
I wouldn't mind softer springs but then I'd probably lose a lot of clearance and find it wallowy.
Horses for courses I suppose.
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Weight vs suspension is probably the issue. My guesstimate is that a fully loaded up Prado with all the goodies is around 250-300kg more than standard. This probably balances out the stiffer springs. It would be interesting to compare fully loaded ride height and how different that is between the different vehicles.
Shocks impact handling. There's no denying that the standard shocks are a bit low on rebound control, my biggest fear in replacing them is that I end up with a super stiff ride which would only make matters worse for the ride and stress on the vehicle. Back to my cup of tea...Last edited by krypto; 30-07-2012, 10:44 AM.
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Have a cuppatea AJ, it's just a car.
This is the main point. Combined with my talk of lifting wheels leading AJ to getting all twisted. If the wheels lift before the suspension hits the bumps stops then you've reduced your ability to articulate.Originally posted by Skywalkerrun View Postneither your front or rear have reached the bump stops Cheers.
AJ, with your combination of springs and weight you're able to articulate well enough and you're happy with that, doesn't make the notion of stiffer springs leading to less articulation wrong, just means my generalisation isn't that relevant to you.
The takeaway (& what I should have said in the first place just had trouble with my ... erm ... articulation) is that if the springs are too stiff for the car then the wheels will left too early.
G.
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I have no idea what you are talking about hereOriginally posted by Skywalkerrun View PostGday AJ120
If you look at the pics closely you will notice that both doors on the drivers side along with the front bumper are high to the body lines and on the passengers side the doors and the bumper are lower!
So whats your point? Yes the chassis on all vehicles twists. Thanks for agreeing with me that articulation and wheel travel is not limited by having stiff springs, rather the individual set up of each vehicle.Originally posted by Skywalkerrun View PostThis is due to chassis twist and you will always have good articulation on the rear axle due to it being a live axle.
No you get body twist all the time, on any vehicle regardless of the suspension bottoming out.Originally posted by Skywalkerrun View PostI am aware that you get body twist on such angles once the suspension bottoms out but neither your front or rear have reached the bump stops!
Cheers.
Where can I buy those xray vision glasses you are wearing? How can you tell that the bump stops haven't been reached just by looking at those pictures?
I really don't understand what point you are trying to make with that post, I posted the pics a bit toungue in cheek to show that lifting wheels is not just because you have heavier springs.
Gordon, will be interesting to hear how you go on Madigans on the Bike!
Cheers Andrew
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Good to know I'm not the only one surfing ebay for asbestos clothing. Good eyes btw.
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Gday AJ120
I will probably be flamed for trying to be smartie but i am only pointing out an observation!
If you look at the pics closely you will notice that both doors on the drivers side along with the front bumper are high to the body lines and on the passengers side the doors and the bumper are lower!
This is due to chassis twist and you will always have good articulation on the rear axle due to it being a live axle.
I am aware that you get body twist on such angles once the suspension bottoms out but neither your front or rear have reached the bump stops!
Cheers.
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Good going. Just read your list of stuff - you've got bloody everything so you've done very well to keep your weight down (but hey is that with anyone inside?)...
G.
PS going Madagain on Dr650s in Sep... this one my biggest travelling light challenge - not even any room for beer
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Heaps of times, got a wieghbridge at work. don't recall the actual axle weights (didn't weigh them seperatly last time) but on my recent trip across Madigans, fully loaded with everything needed for the toughest most remote trip in Australia, 3 weeks food, 240 litres of fuel, 100 litres of water 2 spares etc etc, it was 3080kg, so 90kg over weight.Originally posted by Gordon View PostAJ, have you put your vehicle over the weighbridge?
Normally I tow the camper and that takes a lot of the weight out of the Prado, usually under weight for most trips.
EDIT: I often weigh 4wdrives for people at work, plenty of Cruisesr and Nissans go 3.75tonne when loaded! weighed an F250 the other day 5.2 tonne
Cheers AndrewLast edited by AJ120; 29-07-2012, 09:54 PM.
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Yeah, its a real worry how stiff suspension makes you loose wheel travel and articulation.Originally posted by Gordon View PostThen there's the "real offroad" stuff: the stiffer the suspension, the less wheel travel you have. Look at some of those videos of cars with wheels in the air - that almost never happens to me as I'm able to get maximum articulation out of the thing.

Thats all the articulation I can get outa mine lol.
Cheers Andrew
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Hi G,
Diesel! for what I do, it's not an option, I need the engine braking :-), I like the economy, the water resistance of the engine is an added bonus, I can deal with the lack of power.....
Just might have to get a 2-3/4 exhaust n dump pipe....?
No cracks in my guards......yet?
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